I tried to put a great amount of detail when I did my 8.8 swap, but some areas are thin. Here's a little more detail the parts needed and my comments and some general pricing:
DEFINITELY NEED FOR ALL BUILDS:
1. Ford 8.8 from Junkyard (duh!).
Expect to pay about $200 for your axle, but this can vary widely. I've seen prices in various threads from "free" to $450. I also saw a good suggestion to check Craiglist for individuals parting out Explorers - it might be a great way to get a better price. I personally would only look at 1995-2001 Explorers with disc brakes. The earlier 1991-1994 Explorers had drum brakes.
Things to get with the Axle:
Parking Brake Cables (highly recommended)
Calipers (or definitely just the banjo bolts)
Rotors (only if they are good and you want to reuse them)
Spring Plates (can be useful for budget shock mounts)
U Bolts (can be useful for budget builds if you want to reuse them, but this isn't recommended by some people)
LSD or Open Differential
I'll add more here later...
2. 1310 Yoke Adapter
Expect to pay from $0 to $50 for the yoke adapter. The 8.8 has a flange on the pinion, not a yoke, like the Dana 35. 1995-2001 Explorers have 1330 U-joints, so their yoke is the wrong size for most of our Jeeps, which use 1310 U joints. However, earlier Explorers with drum brakes (1991-94), had 1310 yoke adapters. Your best option is to find one at the wrecking yard when you are getting your axle. I kept the flange bolts and reused them (with Loctite) A new one will cost $40-50 from Tom Woods, East Coast, etc.
You will need to address all of the components listed below. The list is long, but it's NOT difficult. Your brake line strategy will determine your exact parts used.
- Driver's Caliper Soft Line
- Passenger Caliper Soft Line
- T-Line to Frame
- New Copper Washers at Caliper, qty 4 (buy at Auto Parts Store)
- Hard Line from Passenger Caliper Soft Line to T-Line (long hard line)
- Hard Line from Driver Caliper Soft Line to T-Line (short hard line)
- Mounting of T-Line to Axle
- Bracket at end of Driver's Side Soft Line
- Bracket at end of Passenger Side Soft Line
- Venting of Axle
- Brake Fluid (buy new at Auto Parts store)
Luckily, the Explorer and Jeep hard brake lines use the same thread size. This lets you mix and match T-lines, soft lines, hard lines, etc.
The banjo bolts on the calipers are also the same size, so you can use the Jeep soft lines on the Explorer caliper. These do not seem to be readily available, so don't lose them. And even pick up a couple of extras at the wrecking yard.
I'm trying to keep it simple by only listing the three main options:
Option 1: Use all Jeep Soft Lines (old or new) with new hard lines
This is what I did. See my Part 5: StanF 8.8 Brake Lines
Option 2: Use Explorer Caliper Soft Lines (old or new) with new hard lines and Jeep T-line (old or new)
This is very similar to option 1, except you use the Explorer soft lines.
You need another Passenger side soft line to use on the Driver's side. This can be purchased new or grab an extra used one from the wrecking yard when you get your axle.
Option 3: Use Explorer Caliper Soft Line/T Line (old or new) with new hard lines
This is another great option that is well-detailed by Feetwet in his thread:
Feetwet Brake Lines
SECURING THE SOFT LINES:
The end of the soft lines must be secured where they meet the hard lines. The approach you use will depend on which soft line you are using.
If you use the Explorer soft lines, then cut the end off of the 8.8 perches and weld them to your axle (like Feetwet). The end of the soft line bolts down.
If you use the Jeep soft lines, then you can either make or buy some brackets. The end of the soft line is held in with a clip.
My recommendation is to use the Jeep Dana 35 vent fitting - it will thread directly in the 8.8 vent hole. This gives you the T-line mount and the vent all in one piece.
Otherwise, you can use the stock 8.8 vent fitting, and weld on a bolt to mount the T-line.
Pre-flared hard lines can be purchased from your local parts store in various lengths. Or you can purchase the tubing and get a loaner flare tool from your local auto parts store. The pre-flared ones work pretty well, and I'd recommend them.
You'll probably need a short hard line about 12-16", and a long hard line about 36-40". Use a coat hanger wire to layout your hard line routing, then measure the wire. Take the old 8.8 hard line with you to the Parts Store to ensure you get compatible hard lines.
Parking Brake Cables
The two ends of the parking brakes for the Jeep and Explorer are pretty different, but there are some good solutions. First, let me say that I think parking brakes are pretty darn important. I'm only going to put down what I think are the two best and most reliable solutions. This is only my opinion (and my thread!), and you can disagree with me.
There are two main ways to do parking brake cables.
Option 1: Modify the frame end of the 8.8 parking brake cable to be compatible with the Jeep bracket. This is the best option (IMO), even though I didn't do it. (Note that I do recommend the crimped cable ends like Feetwet did - not just the clamped cable ends that you will find if you look around other threads.)
Feetwet did it very well. Feetwet 8.8 Parking Brakes
Option 2: Buy the Parking Brake Cable Kit from East Coast Gear Supply or MORE. These kits are custom made, new cables, with 8.8 on one end and Jeep on the other. I used the ECGS Kit, and had some issues - see my Part 6 for details. The ECGS kit is about $75, and the MORE Kit is about $125.
I've seen other options, which I won't go into detail about here. One wrapped and clamped the Dana 35 brake cable around the 8.8 actuator. Another made an adapter bracket from the 8.8 actuator to the Dana 35 cable. I don't recommend them (others may disagree- no problem!) - but you can search them out if you prefer one of those solutions.
You'll need Paint, Cutoff Wheels, Grinding Wheels, Rags, etc. - $30 or so should cover it.
Gear Oil - I use the cheapest gear oil from Walmart. I end up changing it too frequently to put in the expensive synthetic stuff. I think it's about $15 per gallon.
Friction Modifier $5 - needed if you have an LSD differential
PERCHES/SPRING PLATES/SHOCK MOUNTS/U BOLTS
This post is getting long, so I'll do section in a new post.