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Unread 09-12-2011, 07:32 PM   #1
Newk76
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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yeah, another won't start thread

We got the Jeep back together tonight and tried to start it up. It hasn't been cranked over since we started the rebuild in June. We have done the clutch, fuel filter, had the front fenders off (so everything that goes along with that), and I cleaned the TB. These are things I can think of that could have caused any kind of starting issue that we've done.

It will crank, we have spark, but it won't fire. We've gotten different error codes, 12, 32, 33, 35, and a 57 at different times tonight trying to start it. The last round was the 12, 33, 57.

We checked the ground from the battery, pulled the CKP and tested it, got 610. We have fuel at the rail.

Would a weak starter cause it to not actually turn over fast enough?

Help a girl out here I was so dissappointed to not hear it fire up after so long..

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Unread 09-13-2011, 05:43 AM   #2
Newk76
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Anyone have any ideas? or are you as stumped as we are?
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Unread 09-13-2011, 06:55 AM   #3
nembudonna
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How strong is the battery? Do you have compresion?
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Unread 09-13-2011, 07:14 AM   #4
brentd711
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If in doubt about the starter try a 3rd gear jump start
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Unread 09-13-2011, 07:15 AM   #5
patnewk76
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The battery was new this summer. One of the things we bought w/everything else for the build. Haven't checked compression. Will need to read up on how to do that
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91 YJ "Tonka" 4.0/ax15, stock/stock axles,
99 WJ 4.0 work in progress
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Unread 09-13-2011, 07:38 AM   #6
oldtime_ironman
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If it ran OK before then you shouldn't need to check compression. I'm betting on a wiring issue howver since you started your build - a lot got moved around. The very first questions to ask in a "no-start" condition is, "Does it have spark?" and "Does it have fuel?". If it has those, then the next thing to ask is if the "Check Engine" light comes on when you turn the key on (but before you crank it).

My Hayne's manual doesn't list any such thing as a code 32 or a code 57 for 1991 thru 1995. So I would re-set the ECU and check all of the above making sure the batt is fully charged up. They do get run down from just sitting a couple months, they don't hold it forever.

.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 07:51 AM   #7
Newk76
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I just got home from buying the paint, I tried again, still no start. I am going to go ahead and take the gas can to town and get 5 gal, even though it's showing just under a half tank to make sure we rule that out.

The check engine light does come on before I crank it. What does this mean?

Can you tell me how to reset the ECU?
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Unread 09-13-2011, 08:02 AM   #8
oldtime_ironman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newk76 View Post
I just got home from buying the paint, I tried again, still no start. I am going to go ahead and take the gas can to town and get 5 gal, even though it's showing just under a half tank to make sure we rule that out.

The check engine light does come on before I crank it. What does this mean?

Can you tell me how to reset the ECU?
This is good news. The check engine light comes on before you crank it, means that the computer (ECU) is OK. Whew thank goodness cuz they're expensive.

Re-setting the ECU is easy - just unhook the positive cable from the battery and touch it to the negative terminal for a few seconds. This makes it a lot easier to diagnose stuff because it sets everything back to zero and the computer will re-learn how things actually are, instead of getting confused by old bad information. Just like on a home computer when you re-boot it.

If you get the codes again after re-setting the ECU, then the information is much more likely to be valid.
.

Last edited by oldtime_ironman; 09-13-2011 at 08:06 AM.. Reason: typo, detail
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Unread 09-13-2011, 08:04 AM   #9
Newk76
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Ok. Will do that as soon as I get home with the gas. Thanks.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 08:16 AM   #10
oldtime_ironman
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Here's a project for ya: easy way to check for spark: I took an old batt charger clip and welded it to an old spark plug. Clip it onto the engine, plug the plug wire in, and turn the key. Watch for spark. It makes it so much easier when you're working by yourself.
sparktest.jpeg  
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Unread 09-13-2011, 08:45 AM   #11
Newk76
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gas didn't help. Don't have time quite yet to reset ecu, but the codes right now are 12, 33, 55. I need to go get kids from preschool, then I will try the ecu reset at naptime.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 09:21 AM   #12
Newk76
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http://s843.photobucket.com/albums/z...t=0cfbc8a1.mp4

video of trying to start, maybe someone can tell by hearing it?
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Unread 09-13-2011, 10:12 AM   #13
Newk76
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I can't do the ECU reset. Our pos battery cable is too short! I got it off and tried, but it wont' stretch over to the neg post. I did clean the terminal a little bit while it was off, even though it looked ok. Any suggestions?

Also, as I tried to start it the last time, I held the gas pedal down. After a few seconds, I could feel it crank a little harder (only way I can think to describe it). I'm not sure if that was a good or bad thing.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 10:13 AM   #14
Apollo12227
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Do you have an automatic? If you have the auto TF999 tranny, then you may have forgotten to hook back up or have damaged or have misplaced the neutral safety switch wires. There are I believe 2 or 3 wires which go to a plug on the drivers side of the tranny, it's located towards the front of the tranny pan on the driver's side. You can crank your jeep all day long but unless this is hooked up you will never have a start. Other sensors which can give you this same cranking but never starting could be CKP sensor (crank sensor which you already mentioned), and CAM sensor, or stator, which is located inside the cap of the distributor. Make sure you plugged your stator (cam sensor) and crank sensor in, as well as the neutral safety switch.

I'll make your video click-free... You should just be able to click on the picture now everyone.

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Unread 09-13-2011, 10:16 AM   #15
Newk76
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we have a 5 sp, ax15. Any sensors we could have missed plugging back in on that?
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