Yay or Nay - Lunchbox Locker with TJ Passenger Shaft??? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 01-19-2014, 08:07 AM   #16
LilViper95
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I have a lockright in the front of my YJ in an xj hp Dana 30 axle. I don't notice it at all in 2wd. I am using my stock transfer case with sye. I plugged the holes on the tcase where the vacuum connector used to attach.

For the money it it's a great upgrade. My only complaint is the reduced turning radius with auto lockers front and rear off-road (I have a Detroit in my 8.8). I really wanted a selectable. I have a few friends with them and they always seem to be fighting issues (arb's and Eaton's).

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Unread 01-19-2014, 08:15 AM   #17
konadubrock
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I run an aussie locker up front with shafts from a 98 xj (i just pulled the whole shaft/hub assembly at the junkyard) and a CAD delete. I do get a front vibe on the highway. I have been told this is because the YJ front driveshaft wasn't meant to spin all the time, and that I should look into getting a new T case yoke and a TJ front shaft. You mentioned switching T cases so I guess you're okay depending on which one you get. Despite my vibe on the highway I would still give another yay=)
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Unread 01-19-2014, 08:46 AM   #18
LilViper95
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I forgot to mention I am running a tom woods front cv style drive shaft. It did cut down on the vibes...until I landed it on a rock!
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Unread 01-19-2014, 08:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadownwpa View Post
...get '95 shafts and keep the cad/posi-lock.
This is what I would do if I were you. I know it's not the popular opinion around here. But IMHO, having solid shafts puts a lot more stress on everything with a lunchbox locker. Especially on the street.

I am set up a little different than most guys around here. I have a 4.88 ring and pinion. These gears are a lot smaller than my old 4.10s. Add a Teralow behind that, and now there is even more stress on the gears.

So for me, even the '95 shafts are a risk. I carry spare shafts. I would much rather break a u-joint, and pop another shaft in, than chew up my gears.

I have, a few times in a tight turning situation, gone into 2wd, and let the rear ARB push me through the turn.

These are just my personal opinions.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 10:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadownwpa View Post
I was gonna do the 95 yj shafts for the bigger joints, but not being sure the cad on mine actually works I had considered the solid tj or xj shaft. I'd also like to know what years of those have the larger joints... expecially if it isn't gonna suck as bad as I thought on the road.
Not an expert on TJ's, but IIRC the first couple years of the run used x297 joints. Same as the 95YJ. So I would look for a later year TJ since they all superseded to the stronger x760 joint if you're going junk yard shopping. In other words, 95 shafts are NOT the best/biggest. If you were to buy new shafts of either 95 or TJ, then yes, they would have the x760's b/c they have all been upgraded.
Not all that sure on the XJ's b/c I've never looked into it. But most likely they are the 297's. Not sure if they ever upgraded, or if they did, what years???


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Unread 01-19-2014, 10:28 AM   #21
LilViper95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockWoRM View Post
Not an expert on TJ's, but IIRC the first couple years of the run used x297 joints. Same as the 95YJ. So I would look for a later year TJ since they all superseded to the stronger x760 joint if you're going junk yard shopping. In other words, 95 shafts are NOT the best/biggest. If you were to buy new shafts of either 95 or TJ, then yes, they would have the x760's b/c they have all been upgraded.
Not all that sure on the XJ's b/c I've never looked into it. But most likely they are the 297's. Not sure if they ever upgraded, or if they did, what years???

WRM
The 5-760x joint is much more durable than the 5-297x joint. Cold forged cross and larger trunion.

It should be a non issue really though, 5-760x will go into any axle that came with 5-297x. U joints are inexpensive. I would not recommend putting a used shaft in an axle without replacing the joint! It is a simple job and sure beats having to tear the axle back apart for a failure.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 12:28 PM   #22
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If you drive your Jeep in snow, be VERY effing careful using lockers up front. You can 360 yourself down a slick road like a hockey puck, by just letting up on the throttle....

The TJ shaft is a lot of work to get it to seal properly because you have to take the carrier out and insert a seal where there never was one. Yes, I did it, and it took a few tries and a few seals to get it to seal properly. Not easy to drive them in square to the bore when the bore wasn't machine for a seal.

A really good solution that's just as strong for your needs is a cable actuator for the CAD. They call them the 4x4 posi-lock or whatever, it's like $100 online. The 2/3 piece axle is every bit as strong as the 1pc TJ. It's actually beefier than the TJ shaft because it's got splines it has to handle. But regardless, the ability to disconnect that front wheel will help road manners and non-grip-surface driving safety.


Edit: What the above posts say is all true. YJ/XJ joints are the same, later TJ shafts use the stronger u-joints. I run an XJ shaft in mine because it was like $20 or less.

ALSO, the front drive shaft will spin all the time, obviously, with either the locker or open w 1pc shaft. A TJ front driveshaft will cure this, as it uses a double cardan joint to eliminate vibrations and improve efficiency. Highly recommended with any upgraded front axles/locker setup.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 09:32 PM   #23
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I am running TJ shafts with a CAD delete, I did mine when I regeared. I just put a couple of screws in the ends of the vacuum lines that used to operate the CAD fork. The transfer case doesn't care if the CAD works or not, so that part is fine. There are a lot of opinions for and against the CAD delete, but I am very pleased that I did it. No delay when going into or out of 4wd. I bought inner and outer shafts for both sides with u-joints for $90 from a junk yard. I did have to clean them up and paint them but they work great.

I have always run an autolocker in the rear, but now I have a Lock-Rite ready to go in the front. I never use 4wd on the street, I don't think that I will have any issues with driveability. Looking forward to trying some obstacles
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Unread 01-20-2014, 12:14 AM   #24
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Nothing more to add but another 'yaaaaaaaay'.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 09:19 AM   #25
ldso
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrEmLiN View Post

The TJ shaft is a lot of work to get it to seal properly because you have to take the carrier out and insert a seal where there never was one. Yes, I did it, and it took a few tries and a few seals to get it to seal properly. Not easy to drive them in square to the bore when the bore wasn't machine for a seal.
Bummer man. Some of them are machined, but yours wasn't one of em. Mine leaked before and after the CAD delete, but I overfill as much as possible.

I had driveshaft vibes around 50mph, but I think it was because the yoke circlip ring split on me and I had to get a TJ yoke at the junk yard. A year later I did a tranny swap, and had the driveshaft shortened and balanced for $120. The guy "threw away the neapco u-joints for you" and installed Spicers.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 11:36 AM   #26
GrEmLiN
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Lol yeah, I'll only use Spicer joints if I can help it.

I rebuilt my whole front end when I did the XJ axle on the one side since the joint was the same size as factory driver side shaft.
I did all new seals, new hubs, XJ shaft, poly bushings for track/sway/ends etc, AlloyUSA tube seals (I don't think they really work, but IDK), Rugged Ridge HD steering kit, and I forget what else.

I'm only on a shackle lift, saggy springs and 31s, I don't have anywhere to wheel near me in Connecticut, so I haven't really built up the Jeep too much.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 06:51 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahar9
Not trying to hijack but if I put shafts from my 98 xj on a 94 yj would the yj need a different tcase? Or would I just take the vacuum line off and keep the same tcase?
You wouldn't need to change out the transfer case. Putting xj shafts in a yj d30 just deletes the vacuum engagement of the front axle. Xj use the same tcase as yjs
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Unread 01-21-2014, 07:06 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Schaef81 View Post
You wouldn't need to change out the transfer case. Putting xj shafts in a yj d30 just deletes the vacuum engagement of the front axle. Xj use the same tcase as yjs
With one exception

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Unread 01-22-2014, 05:49 AM   #29
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seems like a good Idea to me, although, I have yet to run a front locker of any kind. Skip the tj/xj shaft and go straight for RCV's
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