Yeah I should be fine. Im running the new 37" Pitbull Rocker Radials, which when filled with air come out to about 37.3"ish.
If it gives me problems I will just rotate it up in the frame, but for now I just wanna get the swap done as soon as possible.
Im gonna be mounting my hangers like you did on yours Tomb, farther up on the bumper. Im using Ruff Stuff way back hangers all around. I wanna try to stay as low as I can.
Also, are you not running a rear traction bar? Or is one in the works?
One last thing, what length (or travel) shocks are you running? Rear ford shock towers? Asking all this because its the exact same set up Im running except I am using waggy 44s and 37s lol.
I have an antiwrap bar in the works, just havent finished it yet, I'm building one that will be above the pinion in the center of the housing. I built a pinion guard (may be able to see it in the pics) with a mounting flange. I'm going to build a diff cover with the same flange facing downward and then I'll cut a plate to bolt between them and mount the anti-wrap bar to that.
I am using Ford shock towers on the rear, and I actually have a set for the front so i can get rid of that goofy adapter. I'm using ES9000 procomps, I'll have to look and see which ones, I am swapping out the rears because they are actually @1" too long.
I have had various combinations on the front and back and my favorites so far are........
REAR: A complete XJ spring with one extra main leaf added, 5 leaves total (clearanced the big end of the extra leaf to fit over the small end of the other, makes a military wrap, you'll have to redrill the center pin and cut off the small end of the added leaf). It is possible that I may add one more leaf to this pack in the future.
Front: A complete XJ spring with one extra main leaf, an extra second leaf (next largest) and an extra third leaf, 7 leaves total, same procedure for the main leaf as mentioned above and I just stacked the other leafs. I think I'm going to take my front back out and cut the extra leafs down some to tier the leaf pack instead of having the one stacked ontop of the other end to end.....does that make sense? More cosmetic for me than anything.
XJ leaves are super soft, so some of you may cringe at the thought of 7 leaves in the front. Don't worry they are no means harsh and they flex awesome. I do use two clamps on each spring on the first clamp hole from the center pin (there is a whole on the leaves where the factoery clamps where, helps make them stay put)
I've heard of guys wrapping XJ leaves and having all sorts of trouble from them, I'm not sure if their using an unmodified pack or not, but I've been wheeling mine for some time now with no anti-wrap bar and havent had any issues. I have bent a rear spring just to the front of my right spring perch but it was on a set of spring packs that I removed the shortest leaf from (I thought it would flex out better) but realized that it made NO difference on the flex but it did take away alot of support from the spring packs.
I did run my front springs built the same as my current rears and it was WAY too soft. They almost de-arched just from the weight of the Jeep.
I'm curious as to what combination of leaves others have used, please post up and tell us.
I was wondering what guys who were running xj's in the front were doing about their spring packs. I am going to military wrap all of my springs and was planning on adding the second largest leaf into the mix for the front but I will add the third leaf (7 total like you) and if its too stiff for me I'll pull a leaf out.
A good buddy of mine is running xj's all around and added the main leaf from a S10 truck to military wrap the xj spring.
Now that your axle centerline is @ 6" farther forward the stock rearward pointing pitman arm won't work.
So replace it with a Astro Van reverse rotation steering box, its a direct bolt in, no modifications required. With my steering setup I used the flat Astro Van pitman arm, I did have to use a dremel to remove the keyways in the splines so I could center it up ( for some reason on the van the arm is keyed offset to one side).
I'm crossover hi-steer, with heims joints and 1.5" tubing. I can detail that information if anyone is interested.
FYI...a Chevy DANA 60 will bolt right in as will the 14 bolt without moving the perches (the pinion angle on the rear is spot on if your using a single cardon driveshaft), didn't even need to move the shock mounts on the front but I did on the rear. I took both my axles from a 1985 M1008 CUCV. If your farther interested in the axles swap and transfer case swap with the stretch let me know I'll give more details along with the OFF THE SHELF drive shaft that bolted right in!
I'LL GIVE THE DETAILS ON THE SPRINGS LATER ON......
I have this exact setup and have gathered alot of information from Tomb's jeep.
I have the astro box currently mounted, but I have not purchased the high steer arms.
Is there a concern due to the drag link and tie rod not being parallel? Mine will look just like your picture and I was concerned by the andle. I guess I had the wrong idea that I need to keep them in line.
Thanks for your details, I was about 30 minutes away from just relocating the stock box.