xcase locked up? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
Cocopebels
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xcase locked up?

Just aquired a 95 yj with some lift and 33x13.50s
Now I know I'm dumb for not checking before trading my truck for it (93 z71)
But the guy told me the front drive shaft twisted into, I didn't think much of it at the time cause I was to dazed by the nice wheels and tires and only 129k (truck had 289k)miles so just figured he was wheeling a little to hard and twisted it, wrong. Went out to tinker with it and put it in 4 WD an started to move and it wouldnt go with out some throttle and then it would pop really loud. As if the chain was tight but it just won't turn what ever is frozen. I live on a nice hill and it won't even roll back if in 4w hi or low. 2wd works just fine. Any one know what could cause it to lock up like this? Thank. And I have done lots of searching just to find threads piled full of un use full info.

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post #2 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 07:41 PM
Tom95YJ
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Different ratios between the front and rear axles would be my assumption.

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post #3 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
Cocopebels
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Front drive shaft isn't in. And i don't think its the front end neither cause I unplugged the actuator? That locks it in and it still pops. It will move ~2 ft before it binds up then pops and will go another 2 ft.
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post #4 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocopebels
Front drive shaft isn't in. And i don't think its the front end neither cause I unplugged the actuator? That locks it in and it still pops. It will move ~2 ft before it binds up then pops and will go another 2 ft.
Chain is probably slipping in the case planetary is probably trashed. Start looking for another case

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post #5 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 08:00 PM
idaholtby
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Yeah, I too wonder if the ratios are the same between front and back. Better check your front axle ratio and make sure it matches the rear. I have no idea what "front driveshaft twisted into" means.
edit.. just saw that his happens without the front driveshaft installed. So yeah, your transfer case is highly suspect.
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post #6 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
Cocopebels
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Front drive shaft is now in two pieces. And is no longer one piece. There is no drive shaft in the jeep as of now so the front and rear are not connected in any form or fashion. So gear ratios would have nothing to do with my problem.
Recap: transfer case locked up, drive shaft twisted into two pieces. Removed drive shaft and have not replaced. I'm almost positive its the chain slipping, but there's something binding that is causing the chain to slip (its binding enuff to keep me from rolling down my fairly steep drive way.
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post #7 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 08:42 PM
idaholtby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocopebels View Post
Front drive shaft is now in two pieces. And is no longer one piece. There is no drive shaft in the jeep as of now so the front and rear are not connected in any form or fashion. So gear ratios would have nothing to do with my problem.
Recap: transfer case locked up, drive shaft twisted into two pieces. Removed drive shaft and have not replaced. I'm almost positive its the chain slipping, but there's something binding that is causing the chain to slip (its binding enuff to keep me from rolling down my fairly steep drive way.
The "Something" could very well be the chain itself. This is usually the first thing to go/stretch, especially if exposed to a low fluid condition. Drain the t-case, with the drain bolt removed... feel inside for the chain and check for play. Odds are it is stupid loose.
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post #8 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Not trying to be a smart ssa, and im verry thankfull for all the replies so far but how would the chain cause it to bind? I'm just making sure it isn't something simple before I dive into a 3-400 dollar project. So I'm looking into all the possibilitys. And all so, should the part that the drive shaft attaches to on the x case side slip back and forth unless it has a sye installed?
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post #9 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Also remember its binding pretty good, it holds me up on a fairly steep drive way. I have to put it in reverse and help it go down hill... it has me confused but then again I don't know a lot about internals of drive terrain parts.
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post #10 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Just figured out the front end uses vacuum to lock and unlock so mabey its not locking all the way and is causing it to pop in and out? May jack I up off all fours and give it a go and see what happens.
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post #11 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 09:18 PM
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You can pick up a used transfer case on the cheap (150 bucks). It's an easy swap. Sell old one for parts.

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post #12 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocopebels View Post
Just figured out the front end uses vacuum to lock and unlock so mabey its not locking all the way and is causing it to pop in and out? May jack I up off all fours and give it a go and see what happens.
I'd bet a whole paycheck vacuum has nothing to do with your issue. Sounds mechanical. Like previous poster said, just get a replacement transfer case. It's $150, not $400. You could do the swap in your garage/ driveway if you get the same T-Case from similar enough year vehicle with pretty simple tools.
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post #13 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 10:10 PM
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I doubt it has anything to do with the vacuum system. You'll be lucky if that works actually.

Several things to do:
1: Make sure both axle ratios are the same. You don't want to fix your problem just to have it break again.
2. Take and post a picture of your rear driveshaft from t case to axle. This is to tell us is you have too much lift without an SYE. That could be the binding.
3. Drain T-case and check for metal shards in the fluid and inside the case. You'll want to do this either way and refill with fresh stuff because you don't know how well the guy treated it.
4. Pull the case, split it on the bench and see what's wrong with it. If you pay close attention I'm sure you'll be able to get it apart no problem.

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post #14 of 28 Old 05-28-2013, 11:25 PM
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transfer case!
Chain and rebuild (bearings and clips, bushings and seals) is going to cost about 250 in parts.
If you need a new planetary and input gear, another 150 in parts.

Take it off, open it up, and see how bad it is. Used replacement np231 is only 150... but is used.
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post #15 of 28 Old 05-29-2013, 08:02 AM
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Pull it & crack it open to see whats wrong.

Mike

92YJ with some stuff done to it.
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