Wrangler milage/power - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 12:01 PM
Fellows45
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Guys, comparing the 2.4 to the 2.5 is like drag racing minivans....it's not worth it..
As far as the TBI to MPI if that's what he wants to do then by all mean..it's just more efficient and finer tuned the TBI.


2002 Jeep WJ, 4.7, EBC Stage 4 brakes, Bilstein shocks (Still In progress)

1989 Wrangler YJ 2.5, 2 inch body lift, 33 inch tires
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post #32 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
flea1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fellows45 View Post
Guys, comparing the 2.4 to the 2.5 is like drag racing minivans....it's not worth it..
As far as the TBI to MPI if that's what he wants to do then by all mean..it's just more efficient and finer tuned the TBI.
Drag racing minivans is fun though
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post #33 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 12:36 PM
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If you're looking for more power, why bother with the 2.5L? It's fine as is, has just enough to cruise around town and on the highways. But if you want more power, consider swapping in a bigger engine. There's thousands of threads around here with people who have done engine swaps, the information is nearly endless.

A Jeep Grand Cherokee that runs, drives, passes smog, no back fees on the registration, etc. can be had for less than $1000 which gives you everything you need to swap in something with more power. Part out what you don't need, invest in what you want, and you'd be into a swap around $1500 or so when all is said and done.

All about that unibody life.
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post #34 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
flea1987
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I just want to be able to accelerate going uphill lol.
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post #35 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flea1987 View Post
I just want to be able to accelerate going uphill lol.
Well what kind of speed are you talking about? Because a 2.5L in 4Low on a trail can accelerate uphill pretty quickly

All about that unibody life.
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post #36 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
flea1987
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Haven't had the chance to test on trails yet, just on the interstate had an issue maintaining speed going uphill in 5th and 4th doing over 60, not sure if its a common issue, or maybe because i need to replace my pcv's on the intake
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post #37 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 02:45 PM
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Having a healthy running 2.5L that can breathe easily is only part of the equation. Tire size and gearing also come into play. Too big of a tire and it obviously won't be going anywhere very quickly on the stock 4.10 gears. Most get by just fine with 31" tires, you lose 5th gear except for long flat sections of highway.

All about that unibody life.
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post #38 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
flea1987
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got the factory recommended on there for now, once I save up I plan to install some 30's or 31's and a shackle lift, or maybe just better leaf springs
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post #39 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 02:54 PM
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A pair of 1" shackles will lift it enough to clear 30" tires, 31's rub pretty easily.

You should consider getting a pair of quick disconnects for the swaybar, and removing both front and rear track bars. The Track Bars are unnecessary suspension components the factory placed on the Jeep to get the safety hippies off of their backs. They don't need them in place, they bind up the suspension and can cause components to wear out prematurely as well as break things. Flexes pretty well on stock leafs and shocks IMO:





The YJ is mine, it's riding on stock leafs/shocks and 1" lift shackles with 29" tires. As you can see I can stuff them pretty easily under there, so 30" is the max. A 2.5" lift will let you run 31" tires very easily with fully unlocked suspension. Don't forget that if you DO lift your Jeep, you need to extend the brake lines. Mine were pretty much at the limit in those pictures, any more and they would have broke.

All about that unibody life.
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post #40 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 03:04 PM
Fellows45
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If you want 31s just put a 2 inch body lift on it...much cheaper and you have plenty of Clarence.. And it looks decent, but I wouldn't go much higher than 2 inches.

2002 Jeep WJ, 4.7, EBC Stage 4 brakes, Bilstein shocks (Still In progress)

1989 Wrangler YJ 2.5, 2 inch body lift, 33 inch tires
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post #41 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
flea1987
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not a nut about putting it higher than I need to, one inch and 29's will suite me fine from looking at your jeep stance. My offroading will more than likely only be done during hunting season or beach trips (undercoating will be done before beach trips are made). I hunt in east TX so a monster lift and waht not isn't really required to get around. Not sure what track bars are, but that means it's time for research
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post #42 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
flea1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fellows45 View Post
If you want 31s just put a 2 inch body lift on it...much cheaper and you have plenty of Clarence.. And it looks decent, but I wouldn't go much higher than 2 inches.
I believe in to each their own, but not a big fan of body lifts. They look good and make clearance like they should, but not for me. prefer to upgrade suspension anyways
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post #43 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 03:23 PM
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Yup, you definitely don't need a big lift to go places. Mine goes everywhere around here, and we have some pretty nasty rainwashed trails with big deep ruts.

Here's a pic of mine on level ground:



Use your head and it'll take you anywhere you want to go

Definitely read up on the use of Track Bars. Leaf Springs don't need them.

All about that unibody life.
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post #44 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
flea1987
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Why do people run track bars if they suck so bad? or do they help with road driving?
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post #45 of 53 Old 04-02-2013, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by flea1987 View Post
Why do people run track bars if they suck so bad? or do they help with road driving?
Jeep included them with the YJ line after the CJ's so called "instability". They basically limit the suspension from flexing on our Jeeps, which supposedly decreases the likelihood of rolling.

A Track Bar (or Panhard Bar) is essentially a piece of metal that is mounted on the frame on one end, and the other end is mounted to the opposing side of the axle. This is a TJ with coil springs, but it shows you what a Track Bar is and where it mounts up:



Track Bars are absolutely required for Coil Spring Jeeps, because they prevent the axle from moving left to right underneath the Jeep. Then a set of Control Arms prevents the axle from moving forwards or backwards, or twisting. Coil Springs can flex in nearly any direction imaginable, and that is why they require Track Bars and Control Arms to keep the axle centered underneath the Jeep.

These components don't limit the flex of Coil Springs at all, since a Coil Spring can stretch and compress in any direction. This picture shows this perfectly:



You can see how the coils are bent up in all sorts of shapes.

---------

Our YJ's (1987-1995) have Leaf Springs which effectively center the axle underneath the Jeep perfectly fine on their own. Leaf Springs also articulate differently than Coil Springs do- the side of the axle that is traveling up tucks in underneath the fender, whereas the side travelling down swings inward, and visa versa.

A Track Bar can only pivot in one direction, so while one direction isn't limited to flex, the other direction will bind up and keep the axle from flexing. This is why we remove our Track Bars (us YJ folk that is), to remove all suspension binding and to allow our axles to flex over obstacles.

The benefits range from a smoother ride on the road (because your suspension can absorb the bumps in the road), to more flex offroad. There's no drawbacks to removing them.

You have a Track Bar in the front and one in the rear.

All about that unibody life.
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