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Unread 02-28-2013, 04:18 PM   #16
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yjkid4life
so im rebuilding my dash on my 90 yj and i have a question i want to install all new guages and ive searched over the forums and alot of people are saying to use autometer guages. ok. now im great when it comes to wiring things but i just wanted to no the stock harness that plugs into the stock guage cluster can i just tape that off and tuck it out of the way or is there i diagram i can get to tap into those wires instead of running new wires to each sending unit/sensor. I have experienced electrical problems in the past on chrysler esp. that when u disconnect some harnesses and try and run vehical you will get a short to ground and motor wont start i was wondering if i would face a problem like this? i wouldnt mind just running nice new wire anyway to each sending unit/sensor... please help
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Unread 03-02-2013, 07:47 PM   #17
linusb
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So this is the wiring diagram I came up with. I'm planning on buying this relay box: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER and this fuse block http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-15...words=fuse+box

Does this look like a sound schematic?
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Unread 03-02-2013, 08:11 PM   #18
Michaelgoesrawr
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Looks good to me. Except I'm not sure the negative bus is supposed to o directly to the battery. Maybe a ground to chassis?

Edit: I think you're missing fuses for the power wires from the battery. IE: sound bar fuse, cb fuse(may be in unit or wire already) and a OBA fuse. If something shorts there is nothing stopping them from burning a wire at that point because the only fuses are for the switches which should require less than 1 amp of current anyhow. According to the link I posted earlier. I think, instead of the fuse box going to the switches you should run a terminal bus there and use the fuse box infront of the relays connected to the battery.
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Unread 03-02-2013, 08:51 PM   #19
87TPIYJ
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Wouldn't this work? Assuming you have properly rated gange fuse block and relay. Sorry I used paint to doctor up your schematic.

image-3570619361.jpg
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Unread 03-02-2013, 08:57 PM   #20
87TPIYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelgoesrawr View Post
Edit: I think you're missing fuses for the power wires from the battery. IE: sound bar fuse, cb fuse(may be in unit or wire already) and a OBA fuse. If something shorts there is nothing stopping them from burning a wire at that point because the only fuses are for the switches which should require less than 1 amp of current anyhow. According to the link I posted earlier. I think, instead of the fuse box going to the switches you should run a terminal bus there and use the fuse box infront of the relays connected to the battery.
your right, i didnt pay attention to fusing the wrong side of the switch
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Unread 03-02-2013, 09:08 PM   #21
Michaelgoesrawr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ

your right, i didnt pay attention to fusing the wrong side of the switch
It took me several looks to see that part. Since the switches are fused I was thinking everything would be fused. I was going to suggest a relay like you did but that's not needed since he is using switches and relays after the fact. The relay would be used to power higher amp things.

I think the whole talk of the fuse box for the switches came from above. It's not wrong by any means but I wouldn't use one. I plan on wiring my switches in parallel.
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Unread 03-02-2013, 10:07 PM   #22
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Oh wow, you are exactly right! Good catch!
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Unread 03-02-2013, 10:14 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linusb
Oh wow, you are exactly right! Good catch!
That's what we are here for.
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Unread 03-02-2013, 10:43 PM   #24
linusb
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I'm confused about the purpose of the first relay in this diagram. Presuming that the 12v keyed source is already fused, is that first relay necessary? Would it be a sound design to just wire the switches directly the 12v keyed source? You indicated you'd wire the switches in parallel, is that what is diagrammed here? Edit: For practical application, do you make pigtailed wires for each switch?

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Unread 03-02-2013, 10:55 PM   #25
87TPIYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linusb
I'm confused about the purpose of the first relay in this diagram. Presuming that the 12v keyed source is already fused, is that first relay necessary? Would it be a sound design to just wire the switches directly the 12v keyed source? You indicated you'd wire the switches in parallel, is that what is diagrammed here? Edit: For practical application, do you make pigtailed wires for each switch?
The purpose of the first relay is to try and keep draw off your 12V source. Basically in this set up the only extra load you are putting on the ignition wire is the load of a single relay's coil. In reality would you need this? Probably not. Is it a safer design? Yes. If I were to wire it up, i would want it to look like that diagram.
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Unread 03-02-2013, 11:32 PM   #26
Michaelgoesrawr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linusb
I'm confused about the purpose of the first relay in this diagram. Presuming that the 12v keyed source is already fused, is that first relay necessary? Would it be a sound design to just wire the switches directly the 12v keyed source? You indicated you'd wire the switches in parallel, is that what is diagrammed here? Edit: For practical application, do you make pigtailed wires for each switch?
Yes. They are in parallel in that diagram. Since they are such low amps you don't need a fuse for them. I'm not even sure they make a 1 amp fuse. Yes pigtails would be easy. You would have your 12v keyed source(or power from relay) going into one connector AND coming from the same connector, the 12v going to the next switch. Repeat until switches are wired. I hope that answered your question. If not, I'll try again lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ

The purpose of the first relay is to try and keep draw off your 12V source. Basically in this set up the only extra load you are putting on the ignition wire is the load of a single relay's coil. In reality would you need this? Probably not. Is it a safer design? Yes. If I were to wire it up, i would want it to look like that diagram.
This. Although I don't really feel like the relay is necessary for this because of the low amp draw. Maybe with switches with lights? However, i would use a relay as well because I think relays are cool. But I don't plan on having 12v keyed switches at this point.
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Unread 03-03-2013, 06:43 AM   #27
linusb
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Ok, I finally got the concept and execution planned out in my head! Hoping to get this done next weekend. It will at least fix the wiring mess I've created myself these last few years.

As for what the PO has done, I'm hesitant to mess with any of that. Lots of wires spliced and messy which I'm hoping is not a major issue since whatever accessories he had wired no longer exist. There should be a few things I can clean up, some grounds in odd locations.
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Unread 03-03-2013, 06:53 AM   #28
90DesertTanYJ
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Never add any electrical system without fusing it somewhere. Dont put a bunch of things on one fuse even if its a higher amperage one as you may overload the feed wire. Dont try and use a switch to eliminate a relay. Relays handle high amperage and should be used on systems like winches and light bars. CBs and other low amp circuits dont need relays. Always match the wire size to amp draw but oversizing isnt a bad thing. Take the time to find out which circuits are ignition on and which are battery always on. Get a test probe with a light and test everything to make sure what is what. I am not near my YJ right now but I thought the cigar lighter fuse was always on but I may be wrong there.

If your gauges are giving you trouble and you want to save money you can hardwire them as well to eliminate the crappy PVC copper pathway thingy that the factory and VDO thought was a good idea......NOT! After doing this I solved all issues and my gauge readings are accurate and steady. I have pics and a drawing of this if you want it. YJs and CJs are great vehicles to learn about 12v systems because they arent too complicated. If you have the OEM carb you may want to consider the Nutter Bypass if it hasnt been done already. You can eliminate the ECU altogether and the wiring associated with its systems.

Electrical isnt generally hard just sometimes tedious. A Factory Service Manual will have wiring diagrams to follow and diagnostic trees to help solve issues. The best aftermarket mod you can purchase for your YJ. You will save enough money by solving your problems to pay for it quickly.

Good luck and keep us updated as to your progress.
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Unread 03-03-2013, 08:04 AM   #29
linusb
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Thanks, I have a 94 and the engine runs well with the MPFI. The only known gauge issue I have is my RPM gauge. It operates in a very condensed range. If I held the accelerator to the floor, I don't think the RPMs would go over 2000 - but it doesn't jump there and stop, it seems to operate in proportion to the engine speed. That's something I'll try to troubleshoot as well.

All this education on relays has been tremendously helpful. I didn't really understand their purpose that well before now. They really are critical I see! Fortunately everything I've wired up to this point does not see much usage except for my sound bar and I'm pretty sure I have that powered through the old stereo circuitry or perhaps the AC. There's an unused plastic connector under the dash that has 4 male prongs: 1 is ground, 1 is hot all time, and 2 are hot when key is on (or turned backward). I used those connections to power the soundbar and CB. I presumed I was probably pretty safe in that they were fused somewhere and I wasn't running anything high amp but I'm ready to re-do it all for the sake of knowing exactly what circuit is what. I'll use one of those mystery prongs to power the very first relay so that will be the only mystery in my circuit.

My on board air compressor clutch is probably the scariest thing. It was the first project I did after buying Jeep and I have no idea what circuit I tapped into for that and don't know what load it draws either. The only fortunate thing is it gets very infrequent use. I think it only draws a few amps from what I've read.

In any case, I'm excited to get it all cleaned up.
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Unread 03-03-2013, 10:45 AM   #30
Michaelgoesrawr
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Any amount of time spent tracing wires and I am sure you will figure it out no problem.

Solder after you crimp, use shrink tubing and stay away from those plastic crimp connectors and your connections will last as long as you want them to.
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