OK, I hate to keep taking up valuable space with these Monkey doo questions but help me out here if you can.
After lots of advice about grinders, bits, easy outs, etc. I was able to finally remove my windshield hinges, I had problems with the 2 bolts on the top of the right hinge in the front. Inside the windshield frame there is a small plate which the bolts screw into. It fell down inside and is not retrievable. So the holes are now to big for the bolts and there is no access to the inside to try and put a nut on them. Is there any way to fill these holes with something that will allow me to screw the bolts in firmly? Like bondo or some sort of metal filler that can be drilled then tapped?
91 YJ, 4 banger, 3" Rough Country, 3" body lift, 31X10.5 BFG KO's on 15X10 bajas, K&N, restrictor removed.
Originally posted by OhYeah: Is there any way to fill these holes with something that will allow me to screw the bolts in firmly? Like bondo or some sort of metal filler that can be drilled then tapped?
Don't know if there is a better solution to your problem, but to answer your question... you can get metal putty (Magnum steel, JB Weld) that you could put in there and are fully drillable/tapable/grindable.
1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo - SAS'd and SOA'd, sitting on 36x12.50 TSLs, D44 front, 14bff rear, locked by OX and Detriot, suspensions by Jeep and Chevy, high steer conversion, 5.13 gearing and Teralow in the case. email@example.com - website
It fell down inside and is not retrievable. So the holes are now to big for the bolts and there is no access to the inside to try and put a nut on them. Is there any way to fill these holes with something that will allow me to screw the bolts in firmly? Like bondo or some sort of metal filler that can be drilled then tapped?
Loosen the dash and move it backwards a few inches, then you have access to the nuts. Do it right the first time. Remomber to disconnect the battery before doing that.
Respectfully, I cannot see metal putty or a helicoil working on sheet metal.
The bracket you've lost is gone. Lol
Use a rivnut. People call em different things though. You can get 5/16 18 ones at fastenal or another bolt supply place. You need a tool like a rivet gun to install them or find the thread about installing them into the frame rails for the tcase skid and use a bolt and nut combo similar to the one shown in that thread. Works awesome. Just takes a bit to get them installed. Its basically a threaded aluminum or steel insert that rivets in. Ill try and get a pic of what I just did. Don't mess around with other crap.
Here's the thread for the "tool". Just make yours with smaller hardware. 5/16 18 1 and 1/2 bolt, grade 8, a nut just a bit larger, 2 5/16 flat washers and a star washer. You'll need like 10 star washers. Lol
You guys realize the original thread is almost 10 years old! Still good info.
1987 YJ, 258, Weber 32/36, HEI, Custom Sound bar, Hardtop/Sun-rider/bikini tops, 2" Lift, 1/2" Boomerangs, 1" Body & MM Lift. 32x11.5x15 Copper STT's on Black Rock 950 Lobos w/4" backspacing, Still need Front Bumper and Seats.
My build thread: [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/my-very-slow-87-yj-build-thread-1137667/[/url]
If the windshield frame can be removed, that plate (looks like a Z with 2 tapped holes in it - 5/16NC) can be shaken out, then using a magnet-head probe/retriever, you can slide it back to where it belongs. Once you see it through the big holes in the windshield frame, put a long 5/16" NC bolt into one of the tapped holes - this will be used as a handle. Now, get some body panel adhesive ready (quick dry epoxy will work but it isn't as flexible as panel adhesive) squeeze some of the adhesive into each big hole (try not to get much on the bolt & threads - if you're using epoxy don't get any on the threads, you might want to put it on the plate first and the position it), now pull the plate into position using the long 5/16" bolt and using a short bolt and washer in the other hole, tighten the plate into place and let the adhesive dry.
If that Z plate is lost or irretrievable, you can make one out of a piece of flat 1/4" mild steel bar. Use the hinge as a template for the bolt spacing. I use this method to make plates for the lower bolts to replace those that normally spin when you try to remove them.