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Unread 02-09-2008, 09:22 PM   #1
Kalesinajeep
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willys cj2a on yj frame

My dads friend has either a cj2a tub or a mb2a frame hes not really sure which but its an old flat fender. i want to know if it is possible to mount this tub on a yj frame.

i have a dream. a restored cj2a or mb2a tub painted up nice like it rolled out of the factory with the olive drab. stars and numbers... but under the running gear is out of a yj a 4.0l i6 the ax15 tranny np231 transfer case and the dana 30 in the front with the 35 in the rear.... the entire stock drive line. i want to leave it at the stock yj height to preserve the old army jeep look but run bfg 30X9.5" mud terrains on the appropriate sized american racing mojave rims you know the black teflon ones.

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Unread 02-09-2008, 10:14 PM   #2
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalesinajeep View Post
My dads friend has either a cj2a tub or a mb2a frame hes not really sure which but its an old flat fender. i want to know if it is possible to mount this tub on a yj frame.

i have a dream. a restored cj2a or mb2a tub painted up nice like it rolled out of the factory with the olive drab. stars and numbers... but under the running gear is out of a yj a 4.0l i6 the ax15 tranny np231 transfer case and the dana 30 in the front with the 35 in the rear.... the entire stock drive line. i want to leave it at the stock yj height to preserve the old army jeep look but run bfg 30X9.5" mud terrains on the appropriate sized american racing mojave rims you know the black teflon ones.

i suppose anything is possible with some work, but it'd definitely not going to be a bolt on. you're looking at a difference of a good foot or more in length when you you compare the two. Jeeps in general just kept getting longer and longer from the CJ2 right on up through the TJ and the unlimited. the tub will definitely be too small to hide all of the YJ's frame.
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Unread 02-09-2008, 10:20 PM   #3
Kalesinajeep
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its all good i got a full sheet metal shop. and proffesional help i got some nice hack saws
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Unread 02-10-2008, 10:58 AM   #4
Jeepfreak81
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The only way this would work would be to lengthen the body drastically as well as widen it drastically. You would be better off starting with a repro body so you have some good sheet metal to work with welding on half rotten/weathered 60 year old sheetmetal is not fun, believe me I know.

What I have seen is the front of a YJ modified to accept a CJ2A grill and then flatfenders were put on. This looked badass and you get the same basic look.

The I6 will not fit in the 2A engine bay, the driveline altogether is too long as well. CJ2A's are small... you can fit them in the bed of a long bed FS pickup truck, honestly driving mine is like driving a golf cart.

If it's an MB leave it to a military restorer, if it is a salvageable 2A I would do the same, only mild resto-mods are acceptable on those unless the body is just absolutely shot.
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Unread 02-10-2008, 11:39 AM   #5
joe's_yj
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axels will be to wide, you need narrow track
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The cheapest way to get a significant power increase over a stock 2.5l, would be to pull it out and put in a 5hp briggs & stratton engine.
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Unread 02-10-2008, 11:40 AM   #6
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Yeah, I definitely WOULD NOT shorten the YJ frame behind the transfer case...ya know, back in the day, when folks had a body that didn't match up with the frame, especially with a flat fender type deal like the early Jeeps, they just slapped the body on the frame, matched up the rear wheels, then let the extra frame length go out the front...Ugly as sin, but, hey...beauty is in the eye, etc...you could mount a winch AND tool box up there, I reckon...

I had a frightening thought yesterday along these lines... frightening because these wild ideas I get often become reality, and I REALLY don't want this to be as such...and that is, wouldn't it be wild to slap an early Jeep pickup cab and truncated bed on my YJ frame? The reason I shouldn't do that is because my Jeep's body is PERFECT, and everything is workin' better than I should expect, so...why do I need to transplant an old pickup onto it? Still....wouldn't that be wild? And HIGHLY impractical...

But, on the other hand...
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Unread 02-10-2008, 11:51 AM   #7
Jeepfreak81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe's_yj View Post
axels will be to wide, you need narrow track
You do not need narrow track axle's under a CJ2A... narrow track axles will not even work well under a YJ frame, true CJ2A axles are even narrower then the later narrow track axle jeep used.

If he wants to move the body to a YJ frame you would not touch the axles at all...

You can run wide track axles under a 2A as well if he planned on keeping the CJ frame under it, you just have to outboard the springs for them.
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Unread 02-10-2008, 08:19 PM   #8
Kalesinajeep
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would it be possible to fit a 2.5l motor in the 2a compartment. if i keep the stock frame could i strengthen it with some kind of crossmembers or somthing and how would i go about this. could i use a 2.5l driveline from a yj and use the yjs suspension components
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Unread 02-10-2008, 08:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalesinajeep View Post
would it be possible to fit a 2.5l motor in the 2a compartment. if i keep the stock frame could i strengthen it with some kind of crossmembers or somthing and how would i go about this. could i use a 2.5l driveline from a yj and use the yjs suspension components
You would have to do a sizeable body lift (hard to do on a 2A as the pedals come through the floor -- unles syou change to hanging pedals and clutch assy.)

The 4 cyl motor is too tall for the 2A engine compartment, you would have to use a CJ3B to run that motor, or run some funky looking cowl type hood.

You can box the entire CJ2A frame for strength, but they still will crack if wheeled hard. It IS 60 year old steel after all, and they were worked hard in their day. IIRC it is only 2x3 C channel, strapped on top and bottom. Some weren't even completely strapped IIRC.

To use the YJ suspension and axles you would have to outboard the springs on the CJ frame and make custom spring hangars as the YJ has much wider springs and axles then the 2A had, you would actually be better off making a completely custom frame IMO. Welding on the 60 year old frame also will not be fun, as most will have thin spots.

If you want a nice FI motor for a 2A, I would pick up a FI RWD Buick 3.8 with the BOP bell pattern and mate that to a Early 5 T90 tranny, or spend the coin now and adapt a Chevy SM420 to the V6 and the original Spicer 18 t-case. You can then add a Warn OD for better gas mileage yet (some report 20+mpg) Tons of torque, relatively cheap and fun. But under heavy wheeling the frame won't likely be the best if you keep the original. It can hold up though if you truly take the time to find a good frame that isn't punky and rotten.

A cheap and easy frame upgrade is an Early 5 frame (Pre-71) they already came with V6 and the flatty body will pretty much bolt right on. This was the route I took.
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1946 CJ2A, 225 V6, T98 D18, Warn OD, D30/D44. Dual winches mild lift & 34's
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Unread 02-10-2008, 08:42 PM   #10
Kalesinajeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepfreak81 View Post
You would have to do a sizeable body lift (hard to do on a 2A as the pedals come through the floor -- unles syou change to hanging pedals and clutch assy.)

The 4 cyl motor is too tall for the 2A engine compartment, you would have to use a CJ3B to run that motor, or run some funky looking cowl type hood.

You can box the entire CJ2A frame for strength, but they still will crack if wheeled hard. It IS 60 year old steel after all, and they were worked hard in their day. IIRC it is only 2x3 C channel, strapped on top and bottom. Some weren't even completely strapped IIRC.

To use the YJ suspension and axles you would have to outboard the springs on the CJ frame and make custom spring hangars as the YJ has much wider springs and axles then the 2A had, you would actually be better off making a completely custom frame IMO. Welding on the 60 year old frame also will not be fun, as most will have thin spots.

If you want a nice FI motor for a 2A, I would pick up a FI RWD Buick 3.8 with the BOP bell pattern and mate that to a Early 5 T90 tranny, or spend the coin now and adapt a Chevy SM420 to the V6 and the original Spicer 18 t-case. You can then add a Warn OD for better gas mileage yet (some report 20+mpg) Tons of torque, relatively cheap and fun. But under heavy wheeling the frame won't likely be the best if you keep the original. It can hold up though if you truly take the time to find a good frame that isn't punky and rotten.

A cheap and easy frame upgrade is an Early 5 frame (Pre-71) they already came with V6 and the flatty body will pretty much bolt right on. This was the route I took.


ok i have the equipment to build a custom frame. tube frame would be the best.. where could i look for plans on how to do this
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Unread 02-10-2008, 08:51 PM   #11
Jeepfreak81
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Originally Posted by Kalesinajeep View Post
ok i have the equipment to build a custom frame. tube frame would be the best.. where could i look for plans on how to do this
If your really serious I would buy a red star at pirate so you can use the search and search thoroughly before you ask questions. It has been done a few times there, but for any real hard wheeling use you will be stretching the snot out of it, whether that is done using comp cuts, or body stretches it's your preference.

Personally I would rather put flatfenders on a YJ and make the CJ2A grill work on the YJ somehow. You would be further ahead IMO.
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Unread 02-11-2008, 01:32 PM   #12
Kalesinajeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepfreak81 View Post
If your really serious I would buy a red star at pirate so you can use the search and search thoroughly before you ask questions. It has been done a few times there, but for any real hard wheeling use you will be stretching the snot out of it, whether that is done using comp cuts, or body stretches it's your preference.

Personally I would rather put flatfenders on a YJ and make the CJ2A grill work on the YJ somehow. You would be further ahead IMO.
define redstar at piratre
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Unread 02-11-2008, 03:13 PM   #13
Jeepfreak81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalesinajeep View Post
define redstar at piratre
It is the basic subscription that lets you use the search function. If your handy with google advanced search though you can get around it.
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Unread 02-11-2008, 03:31 PM   #14
joe's_yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepfreak81 View Post
You do not need narrow track axle's under a CJ2A... narrow track axles will not even work well under a YJ frame, true CJ2A axles are even narrower then the later narrow track axle jeep used.

If he wants to move the body to a YJ frame you would not touch the axles at all...

You can run wide track axles under a 2A as well if he planned on keeping the CJ frame under it, you just have to outboard the springs for them.
iam pretty sure axels from a yj, or the like will not work with a cj. They will work but wont be proportional to the body, they will stick out to far
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my build up http://jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=427353
Quote:
Originally Posted by tawdr77 View Post
The cheapest way to get a significant power increase over a stock 2.5l, would be to pull it out and put in a 5hp briggs & stratton engine.
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Unread 02-11-2008, 03:46 PM   #15
Jeepfreak81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe's_yj View Post
iam pretty sure axels from a yj, or the like will not work with a cj. They will work but wont be proportional to the body, they will stick out to far
The ONLY reason you cannot put YJ axles under a CJ is the drop of the front axle. If you want to put YJ engine, transmission and t-case it you can do it. Or any engine/tranny/tcase combo that will give you a drivers drop. IIRC 83 and up Cj's use wide track axles. I believe these are very close if not the same width as a YJ.

Early CJ's use Narrow track with a passenger drop front axle, these are IIRC ~1972 to 1982, before that they were even narrower. You CAN put them under a CJ of course they will stick out a bit, but it gives you more stability... It would be no different then puttin g FULL WIDTH axles under a YJ.

Wide track axles into an early CJ used to be a common swap for those that did not want to run Waggy axles (wider yet but they ARE ran in CJ's) You have to outboard the springs on the frame to do it. What you fail to realize is how truly narrow they original NT CJ axles are, and honestly they are not the best for wheeling on off camber terrain. I have layed my CJ2A on its side going around corners with a steep banking a couple times, I will happily take some wider axles under it and it CAN BE DONE.

IIRC this flatty has Waggy axles under it that are wider then YJ axles... Doesn't look badly out of proportion to me, and would be a pretty stable wheeler. It is all about what you want out of the rig.

Besides, if you don't want it wide you can run some large offset rims. I am running H1 rims on my YJ with 7" of backspacing to bring the width back in that I thought was too wide.






THIS is how TRULY narrow the early axles are.



This is a flatty with what I believe to be Full width D60's....

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