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Unread 11-27-2008, 08:19 AM   #1
willyb8
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who's swapped Tj shafts into YJ D30?? HELP

got the shafts all set and the seal on the drivers side in. i'm having trouble getting the pass side seal to stay in place. everything i've read says theres no seal on outside of the disconnect housing in stock form. mine has one with ID to fit bigger shaft. the seal i got from NAPA #11800 seems to fit into the stock seal but when i put shaft in it just pops out. do i need to RTV it in place? i used a threaded rod with washers on either side to press it in there tight. other people said that the seal for the drivers side will fit on pass side with Tj shafts but i don't see where, will it fit on side of pumpkin like the drivers side does? please help, i'm doing this on a D30 in garage not the one in jeep so its not an emergency. just really frustrated.

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Unread 11-27-2008, 08:28 AM   #2
rustywrangler
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I have never done it but know this is the best write-up out there: http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/yjd3...jconvert-1.htm
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Unread 11-27-2008, 08:37 AM   #3
willyb8
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yeah thats the site i went by to install. i just can't get the outer seal to stay in place.
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AA SYE & CV,
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Smittybilt XRC8 Winch,
8.8 W/Elocker, D30 W/Aussie
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Unread 11-27-2008, 08:43 AM   #4
TSEJEEPERS
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Sounds like you bent the seal. I would get a new one. To be completly honest with you if you are talking about the seal at the disconnect and you have the one at the pumpkin I would not worry about it.
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Unread 11-27-2008, 09:14 AM   #5
93YJfalcon
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I had the same issue. I skipped the seal in the houseing for all of the above reasons. I am now two years deep and leak free.

Just to clarify - I have a seal on each side of the pumpkin. They are slightly different sized.
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Unread 11-27-2008, 09:17 AM   #6
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
Sounds like you bent the seal. I would get a new one. To be completly honest with you if you are talking about the seal at the disconnect and you have the one at the pumpkin I would not worry about it.
yeah, the TJ shafts don't use one on the outside of the disco housing like the YJ does. even if you were to put on there it won't do any good for long. there's no matching machined surface on the TJ shaft to put one there. you have to pull the carrier and install one on the inside of the diff housing just like the driver side. you may have to do a little grinding to the housing to get it to fit from what I've read, since the YJ housing wasn't machined to put a seal there.
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Unread 11-27-2008, 09:39 AM   #7
champelite210
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All you need are the ones in the housing.
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Unread 11-27-2008, 05:26 PM   #8
ctm
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I don't understand why that writeup calls for a seal at the disconnect housing. Why would you need it, as said above the axle is not machined for it, and when you put a seal at the differential that's all you should need. At that point it is set up like a TJ or a CJ. I can see where there might be an issue with the passenger side differential seal seat area not being machined for a seal, anyone have an issue with that?
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Unread 11-28-2008, 08:03 AM   #9
willyb8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93YJfalcon View Post
I had the same issue. I skipped the seal in the houseing for all of the above reasons. I am now two years deep and leak free.

Just to clarify - I have a seal on each side of the pumpkin. They are slightly different sized.
how much different sized?? q-tec said the ones for the driver side will fit on pass?
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3.5" BDS, 5/8 MORE Booms, 1" BL, MML
AA SYE & CV,
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Smittybilt XRC8 Winch,
8.8 W/Elocker, D30 W/Aussie
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Unread 11-28-2008, 08:32 AM   #10
JeeperDon
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The above posters are right, a seal at each diff bearing area is all. The YJ seal on the left is fine, works. The 11800 is tapped into the right side inside the diff with the carrier removed (as is the left side should ie need replacing). If you plan to use syn fluid and have not before, I suggest swapping the left side seal too. Seals that saw non-syn fluid tend to leak when syn fluid is later used.
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Unread 11-28-2008, 09:55 AM   #11
93YJfalcon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willyb8 View Post
how much different sized?? q-tec said the ones for the driver side will fit on pass?
I'm not 100% sure that they are different sized. It seemed like it though. Maybe some yj d30's are a little different It did have to be tapped in with a socket on the end of a broom stick from the end of the housing while one person held it true inside the pumpkin.

I ended up using a Chicago Rawhide (CR) #11340.

For reference I also have the brands that are supposed to work.

Chicago Rawhide 11343 (Same as 11340 just a bit deeper sides)

Napa 11800

National 710068

National 471763

Spicer 42500

Superior Axle 470160

I used the following kit to do my TJ shafts: http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catal...82bb0f13768e8b


Here's a good thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...=1#post3259716
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Unread 03-22-2009, 08:41 PM   #12
michaelkkirk
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I just did mine.. here are some picts

Driver side seal


Pass side seal


Disconnect seal


Disconnect coverplate.
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Unread 03-23-2009, 05:11 AM   #13
JeeperDon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelkkirk View Post
I just did mine.. here are some picts
Can you please replace those photos with much smaller, less meg images? It's the internet version of 'be kind, rewind'.
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Unread 03-23-2009, 06:39 AM   #14
michaelkkirk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
Can you please replace those photos with much smaller, less meg images? It's the internet version of 'be kind, rewind'.
Fixed.. they were kinda big.. I have a fast connection so I forget.. :-)
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Unread 03-23-2009, 10:32 AM   #15
tranzamwayno
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you only need the two seals on each side of the pumpkin, with diff removed.

the passenger side is smaller than the driver side and there are 2 versions of seal depending on the axle tube size jeep decided to use.

another thing to check is there is a bearing next to the disconnect housing and my shafts were a little larger than the originals so this had to be removed(after i put everything back together the axle slid in only so far, out came the diff again) no big deal with a socket and a few extensions through the housing to pop it out.
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