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Unread 10-16-2013, 12:52 PM   #1
warthog312
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Who's plowing with a lifted YJ?

So I'm entering into the final stages of my V8 swap, and a friend brought up the idea of maybe throwing a blade on the front to recover a little cash from the project and put the old girl to some actual use besides weekend wheeling.
I've got 4" springs, 1" booms, 1" GR body mount lift, and a 1" DS poly body lift. So my gross lift is roughly 7" on 35" tires. Would that work for plowing or am I too tall? I've never really plowed snow before but I'm always willing to go for new things, and hey, an extra few bucks wouldn't hurt. My NP435 trans and EB Dana 20 t-case both have PTO drives, so I could concievable run a plow unit off those.

Anyway, let me know what you all are running or what is a good place to start.

Thanks everyone, cheers to an approaching winter wheeling wonderland

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Unread 10-16-2013, 01:56 PM   #2
SeanB95YJ
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personally I would never plow with a Jeep. first of all, the plow frame (even on "frameless" models) loses you quite a bit of clearance. Second, plowing is very hard on the entire vehicle - frame, suspension, drivetrain.

my thought is, if you want to plow, get yourself a beater truck just for that purpose. if you get decent snow, you'll cover the cost of the truck and probably still have some extra to pocket away for Jeep money
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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][COLOR="Blue"]Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
[/COLOR] [COLOR="Red"]swap/build thread: [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/after-almost-4-years-finally-my-own-build-swap-thread-1542284/[/url][/COLOR][/FONT]
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Unread 10-16-2013, 03:00 PM   #3
warthog312
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All valid points, thank you.

Yes, plowing is stressful on my frame, suspension, and drivetrain. However, I have a fresh 302, very heavy duty NP435 trans, and stout EB Dana 20 t-case; all very well suited to pushing a plow. My frame is now completely repaired from all the rot it had, and has been reinforced at the hangers and with additional crossmembers. The suspension is... well, it's new-ish. The plow would only be on when I needed it and all accessories removed post-winter. I have a welded tube 8.8 posi out back and 30 front that's been beefed up.

The problem with getting a beater plow truck is that I live in Chicago. Parking anything more than a 10 speed bike is a total stroke. I'm luck enough to have a spot for the Jeep at a buddy's house but that is it. Parking spots in my condo unit are $25k+ and city law prevents any pickup trucks from being parked on city streets overnight, less facing a $75 parking ticket. Not worth it in either case.
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Unread 10-16-2013, 07:37 PM   #4
cojab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warthog312 View Post
The problem with getting a beater plow truck is that I live in Chicago. Parking anything more than a 10 speed bike is a total stroke. I'm luck enough to have a spot for the Jeep at a buddy's house but that is it. Parking spots in my condo unit are $25k+ and city law prevents any pickup trucks from being parked on city streets overnight, less facing a $75 parking ticket. Not worth it in either case.
Holy buckets, Time to move!
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Unread 10-16-2013, 09:32 PM   #5
NHfireLJ
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Plowing is blood money... To really make scratch you need to be at it all the time and IMHO in a jeep it aint worth it... Not to mention the potential damage and $$ repairs to the jeep when you catch one raised manhole cover or curb and destroy your rig...

PTO drives are obsolete, they are all electric motor driven now...

but to answer your original question you could plow with that lift but its harder on the blade and jeep as it angles down digging in more. Guys here w 8-10" lifts plow w full sizes...
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Unread 10-16-2013, 09:48 PM   #6
LaddieHanus
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My 89 had a 4 inch lift with 31 inch tires and I was at pretty much the limit for down travel of the plow but on a dirt driveway and road I never put it down all the way. The lift did help in that before I put it on I would get stuck a lot. I ended up moving the plow to my TJ when the 2.5 got so tired that it would not reliably start in cold weather. With 35's the top of the plow may be angled down too far. When I put the 318 dakota motor I have into the YJ I am going to put on 2.5 inch OME springs as the 4 inchers were very rough riding. With the setup on the YJ I did keep the driveway and the private road I live on open in the 30-40 inch snow storms that occur up here in the mountains.

As for the points made above about stress on the Jeep. I have a 6 1/2 foot Western Unimount plow. Both the YJ and the TJ show no signs of frame damage after 17 winters. The plow mounts come off in a few minutes. On the TJ I have broken the swaybar links and I am replacing them with quick disconnects. I prefer the Wranglers for plowing mostly because of the short wheelbase and I have a few curves in the driveway, My neighbors with F250's do break their front axles every few years but both my Dana 30's are intact and original although I am putting in OX lockers.
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Unread 10-17-2013, 01:49 AM   #7
87JWRANG
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I do plow with my 87 yj. I have 4 " lift springs, and 1" lift shackles. I run 33" tires. I run a western uni mount 6-1/2' blade. I ran into problems when trying to angle the blade.
I purchased a 1/2" x 7" x 6-1/2' PC of steel from alro. It is a hardened pc of steel and I cannot remember the steel grade. It is a lot harder then the standard material that a blade is made of. I actually drilled and bolted it with 8 bolts to the existing cutting edge to make my blade sit 5" higher. It took quite a bit to drill it even on a large drill press do to the hardness. It works absolutely perfect. When on level ground I can fully angle either way. It also raised the pivot angle and will fold easier thus causing less wear on the frame etc. I have ran it for 2 years and it shows no uneven wear from angling as normal blades do. It is only 1/8 of an inch shorter after plowing 26 driveways and 3 smaller commercial lots each year. For the $220.00 for the steel and the 8 stainless bolts washers and nuts, has made plowing easier and cheaper.
image.jpg  
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Unread 10-17-2013, 09:50 AM   #8
warthog312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cojab View Post
Holy buckets, Time to move!
Haha, NOPE. I love this city, born and raised. I work downtown and live for the hustle and bustle; luckily I have an amazing friend with a 2.5 car garage and 6 car driveway in the suburbs that lets me keep (and fully frame off) the Jeep and my old motorcycle, free of charge

Quote:
Originally Posted by NHfireYJ View Post
Plowing is blood money... To really make scratch you need to be at it all the time and IMHO in a jeep it aint worth it... Not to mention the potential damage and $$ repairs to the jeep when you catch one raised manhole cover or curb and destroy your rig...

PTO drives are obsolete, they are all electric motor driven now...

I was thinking smaller things like local business owner parking lots and drieways. Just to line my pockets with beer money.

It stinks about the electric motor stuff nowdays. I specifically went with the NP435 and EB Dana 20 so that I have dual PTO drives for running things like winches or plows. PTO should be stronger, more reliable, and more readily avaliable (and cheaper when purchased used) because it has been around for so long.




Quote:
Originally Posted by 87JWRANG View Post
I do plow with my 87 yj. I have 4 " lift springs, and 1" lift shackles. I run 33" tires. I run a western uni mount 6-1/2' blade. I ran into problems when trying to angle the blade.
I purchased a 1/2" x 7" x 6-1/2' PC of steel from alro. It is a hardened pc of steel and I cannot remember the steel grade. It is a lot harder then the standard material that a blade is made of. I actually drilled and bolted it with 8 bolts to the existing cutting edge to make my blade sit 5" higher. It took quite a bit to drill it even on a large drill press do to the hardness. It works absolutely perfect. When on level ground I can fully angle either way. It also raised the pivot angle and will fold easier thus causing less wear on the frame etc. I have ran it for 2 years and it shows no uneven wear from angling as normal blades do. It is only 1/8 of an inch shorter after plowing 26 driveways and 3 smaller commercial lots each year. For the $220.00 for the steel and the 8 stainless bolts washers and nuts, has made plowing easier and cheaper.


Good info here, thank you. I'm going to see if I can find a cheap old blade on Craigslist, that way even if I have to modify it somehow or can't end up using it at all it'll be no love lost and I can just re-sell it.
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Unread 10-17-2013, 07:51 PM   #9
wb2510
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My '94 YJ has a 2.5" lift due to the RE HD springs. Otherwise the running gear is stock. I bought a 7 ft Meyers with E47 pump plow off Ebay for a good price and made a beefy mount / bumper combo. Ive been using it to plow for about 8 years with no issues. The plow mounts are really beefed up to reduce the strain on the frame. The 2.5 L / 4 cyl. does OK in heavy deep snow in 4x4 low gear. Great turning radius for tight spots. Too light for serious commercial work in my opinion but great for my steep long driveway.
Here's a pic-

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Unread 10-17-2013, 08:02 PM   #10
Dingo1033
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I live in the western suburbs of Chicago and plow private lots in Elmhurst. We use wranglers (beater wranglers) to plow our lots due to the fact that the full size trucks can't efficiently move around the lots. It works out pretty well for us.
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Unread 10-18-2013, 01:29 PM   #11
tbart16
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look into churches and social halls also stay away from places that NEED to be open it will keep your schedule a little more flexible, and start slow don't take on more accounts than you can handle good luck
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