Who should I see in Illinois for wiring problems? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 23 Old 05-23-2012, 12:02 AM
dodger889
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: mi
Posts: 4,160
The wiring under the radio is not a big deal. They left the original wiring to the plug. Which will give you a good start on removing them. Unplug and remove the wires to the radio itself.

Now you have two fuse boxes the on you showed and then there is on under the hood(black box) by the battery.

A test light will get you through most of the wiring $5to6. That will help you to find hot leads.

As for your speedo ant working there is a plug or connector that could have buildup on it remove a few screws to allow it to drop toward you to check it. Sometimes you can wiggle the connector or unplug it and plug it back in then it works. do the easy steps first like checking all the fuses in both places. use the same size if you replace any.


A 89 yj with a 4.0 aw4 sye out of an 92xj. Now the hard part is done time to get it up in the air just a bit. Working on 8.8 with 3.73 and lsd for the rear. and new D30 hp with 3.73 .
For those who have not figured this out I'm old school but can handle the new too.
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im just cheap, and cheap makes you creative.
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post #17 of 23 Old 05-23-2012, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
tYJoseph
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: PERU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodger889
The wiring under the radio is not a big deal. They left the original wiring to the plug. Which will give you a good start on removing them. Unplug and remove the wires to the radio itself.

Now you have two fuse boxes the on you showed and then there is on under the hood(black box) by the battery.

A test light will get you through most of the wiring $5to6. That will help you to find hot leads.

As for your speedo ant working there is a plug or connector that could have buildup on it remove a few screws to allow it to drop toward you to check it. Sometimes you can wiggle the connector or unplug it and plug it back in then it works. do the easy steps first like checking all the fuses in both places. use the same size if you replace any.
Thanks!

Okay I looked at both here is the pic of the fuse box under the dashboard:


image-4056608507.jpg

And here is a pic of the one under the hood:
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post #18 of 23 Old 05-23-2012, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
tYJoseph
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Does it look like anything's missing?
Attached Thumbnails
image-1372782306.jpg  
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post #19 of 23 Old 05-23-2012, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
tYJoseph
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image-3270960500.jpg

It seems to me like something's are missing
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post #20 of 23 Old 05-23-2012, 11:58 AM
Que89YJ
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Detroit
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It looks fine. There are open spots for the ABS and all the spots were not filled in the design. Your issues with the electrical are going to be in the instrument panel.

You need to repair or replace the dimmer switch. The switch can be cleaned. Get some contact cleaner, die electric grease, and sand paper. Disconnect the batter. Remove the dimmer switch. and clean the contacts where the plug attached. Spray the dimmer with the contact cleaner. Put the grease on the connector reattach and reinstall. Or you can just replace it.

The radio battery feed needs to be rerouted. There is no neeed to have it run to the battery. You can run the power feed to the fuse box at the drivers feet for power. Stock the radio was wired with a battery feed and a switched ignition feed. All the aftermarket radios need both as well. Most of the wires that are hanging down look like speaker wires that were not cut back and shortened. You can just cut the wires and use a crimp kit to join them back together. Crimping is the easiest way and if you have questions about it look on youtube for a video explaining it. You can get a splice connector for taping in the power leads as well. It looks like he screwed the antenna lead up too. That is the big black cable. You can't cut it back. See if he spliced into the harness on that one. If he did you might need to give me a pic of that one and I can make a better suggestion on how to deal with it. When you are rewiring you can use tiewraps to hold the wire where you want them. The other pics do look fine. The wiring at the column looks normal and good.Th connector hanging down looks like acourtesy light connctor which is no bog deal.

As far as the guages the clusters are notorious for corrosion on the traces. You need to pull the cluster and see if there is any corrosion back there. if there is post back.
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post #21 of 23 Old 05-24-2012, 10:32 AM
JWELK
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
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No problem, just a mess. Got your meter and a test light?. and an assortment package of fuses blade type. First of course are the running lights. I realize the stereo is more important to you, but without lights you'll get a ticket and someone may hit you. So get the above and give us a ring back


Regards,

Jim W

And welcome to the forum
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post #22 of 23 Old 05-25-2012, 08:02 PM
laybackman
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I would remove everything the PO added especially that red wire going to the battery.
Then go here: http://www.the12volt.com/

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #23 of 23 Old 05-25-2012, 11:00 PM
dodger889
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You have a lot larger fuse (30 amp) in the clock then it should have 10 or 15 amps max in that spot.

A 89 yj with a 4.0 aw4 sye out of an 92xj. Now the hard part is done time to get it up in the air just a bit. Working on 8.8 with 3.73 and lsd for the rear. and new D30 hp with 3.73 .
For those who have not figured this out I'm old school but can handle the new too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
im just cheap, and cheap makes you creative.
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