who makes the best body lift and where to buy it for the cheapest???

Goobersbro · 10-30-2009, 01:56 PM

So I have been considering going with daystar for a 1" body lift....is daystar good or is another company better just as jks or what???? also how much did you guys pay for yours and where did you buy them at....

Thirdly what is involved with moving the radiator??

**jbolty** · 10-30-2009, 02:01 PM

pretty much everyone, me included, is happy with daystar

about the same price everywhere I looked. free shipping from some vendors

drill new holes and move the rad down or some just move the shroud or take the opportunity to switch to an electric fan

Goobersbro · 10-30-2009, 02:08 PM

okay I have also read that some people have had problems with there linkage with the t case and gear shifter is this true???

**jbolty** · 10-30-2009, 02:17 PM

some have had to trim the tub a little so the shifter moves all the way but not usually, if it's just an inch.

TSEJEEPERS · 10-30-2009, 02:19 PM

I used the one from Prothane from 4wd. Great kit and a little cheaper then the Daystar one.
Prothane 1 Polyurethane Body Lift, Black by Prothane and Other Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories by 4 Wheel Drive Hardware

ChuckTe · 10-30-2009, 02:33 PM

What is the real benefit of just doing a one inch?

TSEJEEPERS · 10-30-2009, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckTe

What is the real benefit of just doing a one inch?

Can do alot of things. I did mine with a Motor Mount lift so I could do a belly up.
These kits are also one piece. If your body mounts are already shot they are a good replacement plus you get a little lift with it.

**Mean Max** · 10-30-2009, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goobersbro

So I have been considering going with daystar for a 1" body lift....is daystar good or is another company better just as jks or what????
I've always used the Daystar kits, but from what I understand the Prothane kits are just as good.

also how much did you guys pay for yours and where did you buy them at....
IIRC, around $125-$150 from most any vendor.

Thirdly what is involved with moving the radiator??
I like to use a 1" MML to avoid messing with the radiator shroud. But I have done the 1" BL kits without a MML & I just moved the shroud down 1" and left the radiator alone.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbolty

pretty much everyone, me included, is happy with daystar
I second that!

about the same price everywhere I looked. free shipping from some vendors
Good point on the free shipping. I've used Q-tec a lot in the past, but everybody knows their shipping charges are about the highest around. Shop the deal!

drill new holes and move the rad down or some just move the shroud or take the opportunity to switch to an electric fan
As I said above, I like a MML, but moving the shroud down an inch works well too.
I know everybody is big on the Ford Taurus fan mod, but fan-to-waterpump clearance can be an issue on the 4.0L models. I'm experimenting with a 2 speed electric Volvo 940 Turbo fan swap now that should have a LOT more clearance & utilize the factory shroud, stay tuned!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goobersbro

okay I have also read that some people have had problems with there linkage with the t case and gear shifter is this true???
The tranny shifter on manual models "can" have a clearance issue on 2nd, 4th, & reverse gear selections where the shifter may contact the tub slightly. The automatic model YJs should have the tranny shifter linkage relocation bracket (included with the Daystart kits) installed when the body lift is put on. The automatic shifter linkage will likely need a slight adjustment as well, but it's no big deal. If you have a manual model, hang on to the automatic shifter relocation bracket, you may run across an automatic YJ owner that needs is, or a TJ owner (manual or automatic) who might need it for their body mounted T-case linkage, it's the exact same relocation bracket!

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbolty

some have had to trim the tub a little so the shifter moves all the way but not usually, if it's just an inch.
True, it can be slightly trimmed, or you can use a hammer to put a bit of a "roll" on the edge of the tub rather than hacking at it if you prefer. Also, on both mine & my wife's YJs I removed the second shift boot that is under the top on. It can bunch up & interfere with the shifter also.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS

I used the one from Prothane from 4wd. Great kit and a little cheaper then the Daystar one.
Prothane 1 Polyurethane Body Lift, Black by Prothane and Other Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories by 4 Wheel Drive Hardware
Did that Prothane kit include the relocation bracket? I have never used one, and I was wondering about that!

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckTe

What is the real benefit of just doing a one inch?
Mostly it doesn't really affect the stability of the body in relation to the frame. Also it's easier, with respect to not having to address several issues like the steering shaft, brake lines (where they go from being body mounted to frame mounted, under the master cylinder area) or the fuel filler hoses. Plus the 1" is hardly noticeable, where the 2" & 3" kits are really apparent IMO.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS

Can do alot of things. I did mine with a Motor Mount lift so I could do a belly up.
That combo not only helps your driveline angle (because of the belly-up skid) but it also gives your engine oil pan another 1" of clearance!
These kits are also one piece. If your body mounts are already shot they are a good replacement plus you get a little lift with it.
I don't think there is a YJ left in captivity with stock body mounts that aren't rotted out, it seems they're all bad!

Max

Jamesbbh · 10-30-2009, 04:13 PM

I used 1.41" skateboard wheels as a body lift and it's pretty friggin awesome

Before

After

**Mean Max** · 10-30-2009, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jamesbbh

I used 1.41" skateboard wheels as a body lift and it's pretty friggin awesome

I see that & the hockey puck thing all the time.

It's a bad idea in my opinion. There's is no way to be sure that the polyurethane compounds used in skate wheels & hockey pucks can withstand the pressure of the Jeep body's weight, and also it & the frame flexing at different rates.

I am not bashing you, or knocking your rig, but having spent many years involved in the automotive field professionally & recreationally I just can't buy off on that one.

I wish you the best of luck with it.

Max

**SDGBASSE** · 10-30-2009, 04:40 PM

Man, Max you are on fire (Im talking about post #8), I wonder if it has anything to do with that new lifetime membership you just gained....

**Mean Max** · 10-30-2009, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDGBASSE

Man, Max you are on fire (Im talking about post #8), I wonder if it has anything to do with that new lifetime membership you just gained....

Actually, it kind of does. I had been feeling a bit bummed lately (other issues at hand) and hadn't really been as "into it" as I used to be. But with all that has transpired, it has renewed my enthusiasm a bit.

Plus, I really wanted to address/add to each of those comments made earlier, and that was just the easiest way.

Max

RustedWrangler · 10-30-2009, 05:07 PM

Just a thought, but it might be a lot less effort to add 1" shackles to gain a bit of lift without having to mess with fan shroud, all those hidden nuts that the body mount bolts go into etc.

Goobersbro · 10-30-2009, 05:19 PM

okay so I think I am going to do a mml also how much do those normally run...how hard are they to install....and I'm guessing I will have to mess with my driveline issues but thats okay because I am doing a SYE and 8.8

**Mean Max** · 10-30-2009, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goobersbro

okay so I think I am going to do a mml also how much do those normally run...how hard are they to install....and I'm guessing I will have to mess with my driveline issues but thats okay because I am doing a SYE and 8.8

Motor mounts, or a MML can be done very quickly & easily if you know a couple of tricks.

Loosen the tranny mount bolts at the skid plate, the drivetrain will move forward a small amount as the motor goes up.

LOOSEN but do not remove the "cross-bolt" (large bolt going through motor mount) and then remove the bolt & the nut (on the stud) that holds the mount to the frame. Jack the motor up just enough to take the pressure off of the mount & then remove all the bolts that hold the motor mount bracket to the engine block. If you're using a spacer plate for a MML, you can move the mount & bracket around enough to insert the spacer. If you're installing new mounts, remove the mount & the bracket as 1 piece. Being as you should have already loosened the "cross-bolt" first, swapping the mount out should be easy on the bench. Leaving the "cross-bolt" loose, reinstall the bracket & mount, start the threads on all the bolts into the engine block, then start the bolt & nut (on the stud) on their threads. Once you're sure that you've got all the threads started good, tighten the bolts into the engine block first, then the bolt & nut (on the stud) and then finish by tightening the "cross-bolt" last.

For me, I put the passenger side "cross-bolt" back in the opposite way, with the nut facing the alternator and the head of the bolt facing the oil filter. This will make removing the bolt later a little easier, if you just need to jack up the motor or something.

Max