Whats the best way to grease my non greasable shackles? - JeepForum.com
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Unread 11-25-2011, 12:18 PM   #1
danlee
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Whats the best way to grease my non greasable shackles?

Is there a easy way to grease my shackles without having to take them apart? If I do need to remove and grease them can anyone give a procedure on how to do this?

Thanks for the help

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Unread 11-25-2011, 12:50 PM   #2
kjg26
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Suspense vehicle by frame on jack stands. Place jack lightly under axle. Remove shackle bolts. Grease them. Reinstall. Use lock nuts and new grade 8 bolts. Torque shackles to 45 ft/lb. Torque frame end of spring to 65 ft/lb. New bolts and lock nuts are key here
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Unread 11-25-2011, 12:55 PM   #3
danlee
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Thanks for the info, do you usually take the tires off? Also, do you remove the rubber and grease that as well.
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Unread 11-25-2011, 01:19 PM   #4
TSEJEEPERS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
Suspense vehicle by frame on jack stands. Place jack lightly under axle. Remove shackle bolts. Grease them. Reinstall. Use lock nuts and new grade 8 bolts. Torque shackles to 45 ft/lb. Torque frame end of spring to 65 ft/lb. New bolts and lock nuts are key here
Sorry this is wrong. The metal sleeve in the bushing is the thing that moves not the bolts.
To do this the correct way would be to remove the bushings, take the sleeve out of the bushing. Clean it up. Grease it up, I like white lithium grease.
Reinstall and torque to factory specs.
When you torque the shackles to 45 ft/lb the bolt is rotating in the shackle rather than the sleeve.
This will wear the holes out in the shackles or wear a groove in the bolts.
Leaf spring eye-to-shackle bolt nuts-95 ft-lbs.
Leaf spring eye-to-frame bracket bolt nuts 105 ft.-lbs.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/y...ations-587412/
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Unread 11-25-2011, 02:21 PM   #5
imstillatwork
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If we're talking about aftermarket style bushings...

The metal sleeve should be FIRMLY pressed against the sides of the shackle plates, The sleeve, bolt, and shackle should move as one unit. The bushing (properly lubed - they are grooved for a reason) should move inside the spring eye and the bushing should allow the metal sleeve to move inside.

There are two reasons the bushings even exist:
1) and most important, prevent metal-on-metal movement be physically isolating the parts.
2) absorb some shock and vibration from the road surface.

If we're talking about factory style bushings, I've honestly never seen them in person, and assume that they are a severe compromise in performance (range of motion) for price (soft rubber molded onto the sleeve?)
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Unread 11-25-2011, 02:46 PM   #6
danlee
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The bushing is a two piece, right? Can I remove them without causing damage?
I can do this without removing the leaf springs, right?
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Unread 11-25-2011, 03:30 PM   #7
TSEJEEPERS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danlee View Post
The bushing is a two piece, right? Can I remove them without causing damage?
I can do this without removing the leaf springs, right?
Yes you can.
The easiest way I have found to take the shackles off is with a high lift jack.
Leave the tires on and put the jack under the front or rear bumper or crossmember. Jack it up untill there is no pressure on the shackle.
Loosen and remove the bolts, take both sides of the shackle plates off.
Sometimes you can use channel lock pliers to take one side of the bushing out.
If that does not work use a deep well socket that is the same size of the sleeve. Hammer the sleeve out half way and then use the channel locks to pull it out the rest of the way. Most of the time the other half of the bushing will come out with it.
Clean the sleeve up, wire brush works well, lube it and stick it back in.
Do this to the upper and lower bushing.
Torque to factory specs.
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