What did you do to your YJ today? - Page 1977 - JeepForum.com
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post #29641 of 69852 Old 07-24-2012, 11:02 PM
Carlos14
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2007 JK Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
Step 1:

Remove old lines.

Step 2:

Install longer lines.

That's the gist of it
Easy enough! Haha looks like I know what I'll be doing this weekend!


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post #29642 of 69852 Old 07-24-2012, 11:34 PM
Anticanman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos14 View Post
Does anybody know of a good write up on brake line extending??
Yep. A free one.

Just make your passenger side look like this:


And the drivers side look like this:

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post #29643 of 69852 Old 07-24-2012, 11:51 PM
Almighty90
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went to my first meet and greet and was the only YJ
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post #29644 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 12:41 AM
Michaelgoesrawr
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Garage
Drove it for the first time in two weeks. A fuel injected 4.2 is a little bit quieter than a carbed one. I also bolted up the fuel pump, changed the oil, lower radiator hose and found out that I no longer have a speedometer and my oil pressure gauge pegs when I turn the key on. I'm gonna swap out the sending units from my old engine but I am unsure as what I should so about the speedometer because it has the VSS now.

Adopt your pets. Don't shop for them.
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post #29645 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 05:46 AM
squishy
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Some night wheelin last night. And a few new scars.
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Gratitude and Gold both start with G and are just as rare.
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post #29646 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 07:03 AM
Reddy89
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Yesterday got ready to drop the trans to replace my clutch. The cross member put up a fight, stupid nutserts.
Trans mount was collapsed, good thing I ordered a new poly mount. Torque stud was bent, good thing I bought a new one.

Whose idea was it to but sleeves inside the frame which so easily broke off?...
You know it's bad when you grab a crowbar and could care less what happens to the bolts or cross member, just get the darn thing off!
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post #29647 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 07:52 AM
Carlos14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Yep. A free one.

Just make your passenger side look like this:


And the drivers side look like this:
Is there enough slack in the line behind the frame to just be able to pull it down like that or do I have to extend the line behind the frame?

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post #29648 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 07:59 AM
Anticanman
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On the passenger side you just pull it straight down from the top of the frame to the existing hole in the frame for the splash guard. The drivers side is a bit tricky and requires unbolting the caliper and maneuvering it between the shock and frame. It's easier because you save time in the bleeding department.

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post #29649 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 08:25 AM
Carlos14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
On the passenger side you just pull it straight down from the top of the frame to the existing hole in the frame for the splash guard. The drivers side is a bit tricky and requires unbolting the caliper and maneuvering it between the shock and frame. It's easier because you save time in the bleeding department.
Yeah I would definitely prefer to not have to bleed them. I think I may attempt this today!

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post #29650 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 08:57 AM
Anticanman
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You'll need a pilot hole on the drivers side.

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post #29651 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 09:00 AM
Carlos14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
You'll need a pilot hole on the drivers side.
Is it bad to leave it loose or could I just unbolt it and be done?

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post #29652 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 09:20 AM
dillonjm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squishy View Post
Some night wheelin last night. And a few new scars.
Looks familiar.

Check out this thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...ector-1336789/

The TJ downpipe is a much better design (as far as routing) than the YJ part.

13 GC Overland - 5.7, stock
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post #29653 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 09:21 AM
HurricaneRZA
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Decided to halt any progress on the YJ, prayed nothing else broke on the YJ till I can buy a decent welder and get cracking. 5 mins later my stereo decides it's time to retire.

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This is the most metal thing I have ever heard.
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I always get people coming over and saying things like "I wish I knew how to do that," etc- but they don't realize- at some point I didn't know how to do it either- I had to figure it out.
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post #29654 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 09:22 AM
dillonjm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddy89 View Post
Yesterday got ready to drop the trans to replace my clutch. The cross member put up a fight, stupid nutserts.
Trans mount was collapsed, good thing I ordered a new poly mount. Torque stud was bent, good thing I bought a new one.

Whose idea was it to but sleeves inside the frame which so easily broke off?...
You know it's bad when you grab a crowbar and could care less what happens to the bolts or cross member, just get the darn thing off!
Its really more the fact that your frame is rusted there than the sleeve design.

Usually I recommend just cutting off the old nutserts (the are welded to the frame on the outside) and re-welding new nuts/washers to the frame. But I think you need to do a little more metal work with yours.

I think there is a pre-made product that is made for you to cut out that bottom rusted section and replace it with new metal.

13 GC Overland - 5.7, stock
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post #29655 of 69852 Old 07-25-2012, 09:35 AM
Anticanman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos14 View Post
Is it bad to leave it loose or could I just unbolt it and be done?
You'll want it secured to t frame just in a different spot than what jeep engineers originally designed. Use the same mounting brackets and the same screws provided and drill one small pilot on the drivers side to accommodate the above shown configuration. That one doesn't look as pretty but we did AmmitOsiris' last Saturday and it's much prettier. The length is more than adequate and it's FREE!

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