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Rough Country Jeep Suspension Deals at Rockridge 4WD!G2 Disc Brake Conversion Kit for Jeep Wrangler YJ TJ LJ ChIron Cross Customer JK and TJ Wrangler Bumpers now at ROCK

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Unread 03-05-2013, 11:15 PM   #16
baritone_mike
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So even if there is no play in the rear driveshaft it could be bad? I have no problem spending the money on redoing the old drive shaft but I don't want to fix what is not broke. I will see if I can figure out where my front drive shaft was redone and take it there.

So when I redo the drive shaft do the pieces on the axle and transfercase go bad, or can I just remove the drive shaft and take it into a shop?

Also if I take a picture of the rear drive shaft can you tell if the angle is acceptable?

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Unread 03-05-2013, 11:20 PM   #17
dauster500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baritone_mike View Post
So even if there is no play in the rear driveshaft it could be bad? I have no problem spending the money on redoing the old drive shaft but I don't want to fix what is not broke. I will see if I can figure out where my front drive shaft was redone and take it there.

So when I redo the drive shaft do the pieces on the axle and transfercase go bad, or can I just remove the drive shaft and take it into a shop?

Also if I take a picture of the rear drive shaft can you tell if the angle is acceptable?
simply jack up the rear end and put it in drive to determine if its the driveshaft
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Unread 03-05-2013, 11:31 PM   #18
baritone_mike
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What would I be looking for when I do that? Also it is a manual so is 1st gear drive or should I pick a different gear?
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Unread 03-05-2013, 11:32 PM   #19
dauster500
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just put it in first gear and if it chirps you know what is then
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Unread 03-05-2013, 11:33 PM   #20
dauster500
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how long have you had the jeep for?
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Unread 03-05-2013, 11:42 PM   #21
baritone_mike
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I have had the Jeep for about 2 1/2 years and 10,000 miles.

The chirp only happens when accelerating, with the tires off of the ground I don't think there will be enough load on the drive shaft to make it chirp. U-joints are only $15 a piece so I will just replace them, they probably need it after 173k miles anyways.
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Unread 03-06-2013, 12:03 AM   #22
dauster500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baritone_mike View Post
I have had the Jeep for about 2 1/2 years and 10,000 miles.

The chirp only happens when accelerating, with the tires off of the ground I don't think there will be enough load on the drive shaft to make it chirp. U-joints are only $15 a piece so I will just replace them, they probably need it after 173k miles anyways.
good idea
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Unread 03-06-2013, 05:32 AM   #23
mudsweatNgearz
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I had the chirping on a cheby truck one time. It was the rear shaft u-joints.
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Unread 03-06-2013, 06:41 AM   #24
vadslram
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I agree with the drive shaft hypothesis.
If it only happens on acceleration when you are getting a little axle wrap and engine movement (no matter how good your mounts and linkages are they move some) The resulting angle will stress the joints differently.
My old Mustang used to do the same thing and I figured it was Ujoints because it stopped after I installed traction bars. One cap/bearing set was dry because the grease passage was blocked and it squeeked when it had to move more than miniscule.
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Unread 03-06-2013, 08:59 AM   #25
jeff_in_rc
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OK Mike you have not said, or I missed it, that you checked the front axles, have you done this? My chirp was from the passanger front axle u-joint. Crawl under the front end abd grab each axle at the u-joint and see if they have any play, side to side or up and down, if any replace them both. Mine had a huge clunk when I checked them.
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Unread 03-06-2013, 03:10 PM   #26
baritone_mike
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I jacked up the front and and the tires had no play in them and they did not chip when I spun them. Since it only happens when accelerating I don't think it is the front axle, as there would be no extra load on the front axle when accelerating. My front driveshaft was redone about a year ago.

I just bought two heavy duty U-joints from NAPA. Will High Temp Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Greese work for the U-joints? I have almost a pound of it in the garage from when I did the clutch on a different car, it says it is also good for chassis mounts.

Also this is a picture of my rear drive shaft, does this angle look acceptable? I don't want to eat the new u-joints.

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Unread 03-06-2013, 04:08 PM   #27
vadslram
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The angle looks fine but the tailshaft looks like it is way extended. Seems awful shiny like it gets a lot of polishing by the seal.
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Unread 03-06-2013, 04:28 PM   #28
baritone_mike
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So you have to pull the tailshaft out of the transfercase? I looked in my haynes manual and it says to unbolt the straps on the axle and then it shows them pulling the driveshaft out of the transfercase, won't it leak if I do that?

The shiny part is what was in the transfercase at stock hight for 23 years, I bought it stock and then lifted it 4 inches. Is it too far extended to be good? I dropped the transfer case an inch when I did the lift, so I did not think I needed a SYE.
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Unread 03-06-2013, 04:39 PM   #29
jeff_in_rc
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Your manual is correct and no you won't loose but a drop or 2 of oil, nothing to worry about. When you did the lift they included the t case drop right? I would think that if the lift required a SYE it would have said so.
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Unread 03-06-2013, 04:57 PM   #30
baritone_mike
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Yes the kit included a t case drop, but I added a 1/2 inch shackle lift to it.

This is the kit.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16207_015.htm
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