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Unread 02-23-2010, 04:13 PM   #1
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Welding both diff's with toggle

Looking at welding both the 8.8 and the Dana 30. If i add a toggle switch to the Dana 30 vacuum disconnect could I just flip the switch off when I need to make a sharp turn on the trails?

How would this 3 wheel drive system act with the Tcase in 2wd on the road?


What issues will I run into?


Someone mentioned this too me and is seemed like it would work. this jeep is off road 75% of the time.

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Unread 02-23-2010, 04:22 PM   #2
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As long as you have your T-case shifted into 2HI, you're not going to have 3 wheel drive. But your front drive shaft should spin regardless.

If your switch is "off" and your passenger axle disconnected, with your T-case in 4HI/LO, you will have the 3-wheel drive.

A lot of guys swap in TJ front axles or simply shift the fork over with a handful of knuckles, so it's not a problem to have your front shaft spin. You might get some vibrations from the unbalanced shaft but since you're not on the road a lot it should probably be fine.

Your solution to turn the switch "off" and disengage your axle when you take turns would, more or less, work. However, it would be redundant. If you're on loose ground, you're not going to get the axle hop as if you were on pavement.
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Unread 02-23-2010, 04:42 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Couchrider View Post
As long as you have your T-case shifted into 2HI, you're not going to have 3 wheel drive. But your front drive shaft should spin regardless.
.
Thanks. I did not think that part through. So when on the road in 2WD I wont be able to 'feel' that the dana 30 spiders are welded.
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Unread 02-23-2010, 04:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokeman View Post
Thanks. I did not think that part through. So when on the road in 2WD I wont be able to 'feel' that the dana 30 spiders are welded.
In theory, because you're axle is disconnected at the shaft, but welded in the diff, your tires should be able to turn at different speeds. So yes, you should not feel it.

But things in theory don't always work in reality. Hopefully someone here has done this and can chime in.

Glad I can help
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Unread 02-23-2010, 05:22 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Couchrider View Post
Hopefully someone here has done this and can chime in.

Lets wait and see. If not, I am ready to guinea pig this one. I can always pull the welded spiders back out and make it open again .
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Unread 02-23-2010, 05:40 PM   #6
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i have 3 wheel drive and its very dangerous. when you gas it the jeep wheel lundge in the direction the wheel is slightly facing. on icy roads when you let off the gas to fast the jeep will do a 360. i have down this twice! on a granite slab when in 4 low, 3 wheel drive will drive will help just a little while turning. if you can get your tcase to do 2 low then you could turn alot better. 2 high just wont work well on trails like the rubicon ,and you need to do a sharp turn going up steep grainite slab,so im forced to put it in 4low ,put it in 3 wheel drive and try to turn. 2 high no problem on the street
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Unread 02-23-2010, 05:46 PM   #7
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I can always pull the welded spiders back out and make it open again .
i have welded up a d35 b4 and i didnt see a way to get them out after there welded together. you weld the spiders to thes ide gears and how could you remove them as a unit?
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Unread 02-23-2010, 06:01 PM   #8
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i have welded up a d35 b4 and i didnt see a way to get them out after there welded together. you weld the spiders to thes ide gears and how could you remove them as a unit?
Pull the carrier and replace I assume? once again, sitten here with a beer not really thinking it all through yet. Thanks for the advise.
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Unread 02-23-2010, 06:02 PM   #9
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the side gears have a protrusion the sticks into the carrier. i dont remember if its a d35 or not but i would never drive on welded if it were me, or i wouldnt want to wheel with someone who did. all the pressure is put on the cross shaft and will crack the carrier, thats if the axle didnt break first and the wheel didnt come off.. mine 35 cracked at that spot without being welded.
side-gears.jpg  
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Unread 02-23-2010, 06:06 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
i have 3 wheel drive and its very dangerous. when you gas it the jeep wheel lundge in the direction the wheel is slightly facing. on icy roads when you let off the gas to fast the jeep will do a 360. i have down this twice! on a granite slab when in 4 low, 3 wheel drive will drive will help just a little while turning. if you can get your tcase to do 2 low then you could turn alot better. 2 high just wont work well on trails like the rubicon ,and you need to do a sharp turn going up steep grainite slab,so im forced to put it in 4low ,put it in 3 wheel drive and try to turn. 2 high no problem on the street

A few ?'s....

You have to be in 4wd on the street for this to be dangerous, right?

I dont take my jeep out in the winter very often unless its going on a trailer. So If I only put the tcase in 4wd on the trails I wont have the same issues you are experiencing. Please correct me if i am wrong.

No rocks in the North east... its all muddy, tree roots with the occational rock. I have been on gravel trails but never trails that are all rock slabs.
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Unread 02-23-2010, 06:08 PM   #11
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Pull the carrier and replace I assume? once again, sitten here with a beer not really thinking it all through yet. Thanks for the advise.
if your set on doing it weld every thing to the carrier as well, it will help the cross shaft problem. it wont help the axle problem. cary spares!

ive posted this b4 but ill put it out there again, i have heard of racers bsack in the day would fill the spider gear area with molten lead,making it one solid unit and not welding it . i guess if you didnt like it you could melt the lead back out. i wish someone would try this , maybe mythbusters!
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Unread 02-23-2010, 06:11 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
if your set on doing it weld every thing to the carrier as well, it will help the cross shaft problem. it wont help the axle problem. cary spares!

ive posted this b4 but ill put it out there again, i have heard of racers bsack in the day would fill the spider gear area with molten lead,making it one solid unit and not welding it . i guess if you didnt like it you could melt the lead back out. i wish someone would try this , maybe mythbusters!
again, I appreciate the help. I have a 8.8 in the back on 33's. From what I understand, the 8.8 shouldhold up fine.
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Unread 02-23-2010, 06:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokeman View Post
A few ?'s....

You have to be in 4wd on the street for this to be dangerous, right?

I dont take my jeep out in the winter very often unless its going on a trailer. So If I only put the tcase in 4wd on the trails I wont have the same issues you are experiencing. Please correct me if i am wrong.

No rocks in the North east... its all muddy, tree roots with the occational rock. I have been on gravel trails but never trails that are all rock slabs.
when i do snow runs here and the snow gets hard from freeze and thaw its like ice . this is when i have problems. basicly when your on any slick surface ,ice gravel , mybe hard pack dirt with a thin slimmy mud top surface and you try to compression slow down in 3 wheel drive the left tire will make the rear of the jeep come around. it can happen really fast and is quite thrilling to say the least. it wont always do it but just be prepared
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Unread 02-23-2010, 06:24 PM   #14
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again, I appreciate the help. I have a 8.8 in the back on 33's. From what I understand, the 8.8 shouldhold up fine.
ok 8.8 is good. still puts a lot off stress on the cross shaft, but no different than my aussie. i assume that the reason you are contemplating this is $. i wouldnt get an aussie for the 8.8 if you decide to not weld. a selectable would be best. if you go to a auto locker the aussies are a bear to install in the 8.8's from what ive read. maybe a lockrite would be a better choice.
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Unread 02-23-2010, 06:30 PM   #15
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ok 8.8 is good. still puts a lot off stress on the cross shaft, but no different than my aussie. i assume that the reason you are contemplating this is $. i wouldnt get an aussie for the 8.8 if you decide to not weld. a selectable would be best. if you go to a auto locker the aussies are a bear to install in the 8.8's from what ive read. maybe a lockrite would be a better choice.
$ is the issue. I am going to get custom tube fenders front and rear, + some 35's or 34x9s. I cant fit selectable lockers into the budget and see no reason to buy and aussue or lockrite when welding is cheep. I have seen what a lockrite in the front does on the trails = 24 points turns.
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