from trotter: one more clue
i forgot to mention this when i started the thread. maybe it will jog somebody's memory for better problem analysis. after the engine dies and you move to the side of the road - the ignition key is still in the 'on' position. If you try to turn the key from that position and start the engine you get nothing. No engine turn over, no cranking. BUT - if you turn the key back to the 'insert' position and turn the key forward to crank the engine ( as you normally would ) the engine cranks back up fine. That's one reason I initially suspected an ignition system problem. Any more thoughts? Again thanks for all of the feedback - this is a big help.
Originally Posted by trotter
My mechanic was convinced it was the carb (and it's been replaced twice in the last month) and the last time when a hole in my float was found, we thought the problem was set. All this power loss is leading me back to an ignition problem. So, it's going to a new mechanic tomorrow morning. Sorry I can't be more help, but I definitely feel your pain.
Same type problem
Jumping on the boat. Same type of problem with 94 yj 4cyl. Bought for my son to drive to school. Initial problem was blowing fuel fuse. Replaced with a circuit breaker and ran fine until we discovered a short in the ground to the battery. Fixed that problem. Starts and runs anywhere from 10-30 miles, then just dies. If we let it cool down, starts and runs again 5-30 miles. New to the Jeep thing, but frustrated. Where should I start? Is it possible for a fuel pump to "overheat" ? Seems it could be heat related. I've heard about the ECU, but havent researched it much. Initial problem was blowing fuel fuse, thought about rewire fuel pump, and then replacing fuel pump. Not sure thats where I should be starting. From reading here, maybe (in order): ICM, Crank position sensor, coil???? Help Please!!
This seems to be a more and more common problem. I've seen several threads about this very issue, including my own. I've put in a new ignition control module, coil, fuel pump...also a new carb and exhaust system besides the problem. I even did the Nutter Bypass...still has the problem. I've just replaced the Solenoid, called the ignition relay on some schematics and parts break downs. I think who ever figures it out should get an award! I have not been able to duplicate the problem unless it's being driven, gets scary when it happens while driving and is not safe though. I've also been looking towards the fusible links that come off the Solenoid.
Possible "Cure" - Worked for me!
So far so good . From another thread on this forum, they suggested I replace the Crank Position Sensor. I replaced the o2 sensor and crank position sensor at the same time. ( About a 20 minute fix). My son has driven at least 4 hour and a half trips back and forth so far and no problems!! Believe the Crank position sensor was about $60 o2 sensor about $35-40.
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