Weber Carb....Won't idle at all anymore! Do I need a fuel regulator???? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 06-14-2003, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
saint152
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Weber Carb....Won't idle at all anymore! Do I need a fuel regulator????[FIXED!!!]

I have searched for some answers to my problem on this forum finding a few maybe's......but here's what happened to me today:

I did the weber install a few months ago and was thrilled with the outcome!.....My jeep ran GREAT!!....but today I the smell of fuel was pretty strong so I looked under the hood with the engine running. I noticed that fuel was leaking past one of the lines on the back of the fuel filter..... so I replaced the old spring type clamp with a stainless screw clamp.....that stopped the fuel leak but immediately afterwards....I started my jeep and it would not hold the idle!.... It would just die.... I drove it around the block and it seemed as smooth as before..... but it stalled at every stop....

Here's what I'm thinking..... since I tightened the fuel line I got more pressure building up...... Do I need a fuel regulator?....

I've got no vaccum leaks!

1990 YJ 4.2 liter
coil and ditributer cap upgrade

Can someone PLEASE help???

Thanks in advance!


Last edited by saint152; 06-15-2003 at 01:32 PM.
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post #2 of 13 Old 06-15-2003, 10:33 AM
pmpislander
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I am having a similar problem. The jeep ran good for the first two weeks, then after that at an idle it seems to want to die. If you find out what the outcome is then let me know.

89 islander
il6 258
accel coil
flomaster exhuast
jvc and pioneer stereo and components
alarm
4" suspension lift
soa
35 in. super swamper tsl tires
steel horse hard top
9,000 pnd warn winch
custom made front bumber w/grill gaurd
webber carb
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post #3 of 13 Old 06-15-2003, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
saint152
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FIXED IT!!!

OK....here's what I did.....

changed the fuel filter........(didn't help)

I added a "Mr Gasket" adjustable (1-6 psi) fuel pressure regulator ($30)..... set the regulator to 4 psi
(solved the problem with fuel leak in the return line)

I finally noticed that I had a whistling sound when I revved up the motor.....so I took the carb off of the plates and found out the the lower plate (lays right on top of the manifold) was loose....the bolts had come untorqued.

I tightened it down and put it back together(about 30minutes)

after adjusting the mixture and idle screw.....It runs smoother than ever!!!!! I can barely tell that it is running when it's idling!

I hope this helps others!!
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-16-2003, 10:20 PM
pmpislander
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I put the fuel regulator on there and put it at 4 psi, then checked the bolts on the carb like you did and they were loose also. So i tightened them up and it works a heck of a lot better then it did. I still have to adjust the mixture and idle screw, but i still noticed a big difference. Thanks for the help!

89 islander
il6 258
accel coil
flomaster exhuast
jvc and pioneer stereo and components
alarm
4" suspension lift
soa
35 in. super swamper tsl tires
steel horse hard top
9,000 pnd warn winch
custom made front bumber w/grill gaurd
webber carb
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post #5 of 13 Old 06-16-2003, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
saint152
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No problem pmpislander

I'm glad somone got someuse out of my info!

UPDATE:

I took her out for a little wheelin' today and noticed that with some hard accelleration uphill....the motor was bogging as if it were not getting enough gas.... I changed the regulator to 5 psi....it helped a little but did the same thing......

I ended up removing the regulator and the bogging dissapeared...and ran flawlessly!!

i will be performing the "Nutter Bypass" tomorrow....hopefully everything goes well......

Now only if I can figure out how to get my SYE installed!....lol

I think I might just take it to the shop and let them do it for $200 and $250 for a CV driveshaft!
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post #6 of 13 Old 06-16-2003, 10:57 PM
smok3y
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ok guys ive got KINDA the same problem, my idle sux and it stalls if i dont rev it, BUT this isnt the only thing, if im drivin, it shifts fine blah blah, but say im in a gear(1-5) and i push the clutch in and pull it into neutral, let off the clutch, boom 0 RPMs and it stalls, i was told it was the idler jet in my carb was either clogged or somthin, i have 1990 islander, same exact engine as u do pmpislander im goin nuts guys i havent had it for more than 1 week and im forkin out $$ like no other ina day or so to get this stuff fixed
thanks

1990 YJ/ 31x10.50 Maxxis Mudders/Removed Sway bar,Rear trac bar/tow hooks. 2" straight pipes from manifold back

White Jeep Club #73,999,999
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post #7 of 13 Old 06-17-2003, 12:06 AM
LoOpY
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If i may ask, where exactly did you get this regulator? and how does it attach?

I ask because I am interested in putting a bored out 4.0 throttle body on my 2.5, but obviously with more air i need more fuel, so im toying with ideas to bump my fuel pressure up a few PSI

thanks
-TiM
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post #8 of 13 Old 06-17-2003, 06:42 AM
yeep
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the regulator limits fuel pressure. webers like 5 psi, american mechanical fuel pumps deliver 10-12 psi. if you want more fuel pressure, you need a fuel pump.

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90 YJ V-8, big *** tires, cut, streached, locked.
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post #9 of 13 Old 06-17-2003, 12:57 PM
LoOpY
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not to completling derail this train of conversation, but no I dont need a fuel pump. the jeeps fuel pump is capable of delivering 80PSI quite easily (though slightly overworked) by simply crimping off the rubber return line above the tank. (dont ask, long story) so essentially im looking for a way to cause a controlled restriction on the return side allowing me to bump my fuel pressure up from 40 to about 50 if needed. so i was just curious if it could be installed inline somehow
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-18-2003, 02:28 PM
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started to have the same problems with the fuel regulator, but i have not taken it off yet. If i go over like 40mph then it starts to kick and buck like it is running out of gas. So i am going to take it off tonight and then take if out for a run and see how it does. Mine is still not running perfect but what can i say its an 89 with 195,xxx miles on it.

89 islander
il6 258
accel coil
flomaster exhuast
jvc and pioneer stereo and components
alarm
4" suspension lift
soa
35 in. super swamper tsl tires
steel horse hard top
9,000 pnd warn winch
custom made front bumber w/grill gaurd
webber carb
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post #11 of 13 Old 08-11-2012, 07:20 AM
Brucifer42
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Same problem ish same solution

Put in a new weber 32/36 carb in my 86 suzuki sammi never did any adjustments to the carb becuase it ran me down the road just fine. now realizing ive been running rich the whole time, and when i started to hear a hissin noice form the carb area, sammi would eventually cease idleing and stall out everytime i left my foot off the gas. sop after reading, i tyried to adjust the idle mixture and idle speed screws. sammi would run with gas buit still wouldnt idle. took the carb out found the loose screews holding the adapter gasket was making the noise, tightened them, hooked the carb back on (30minutes), then sammi would idle! adjusted the mixture screw 1 3/4 way out and adjusted the idle speed screw 1 1/2 turn in once making contact. Sammi is soo quiet i still think she has stalled at lights, but shes just soo quit now. runs beter than ever, THANK YOU FOR POSTING U SAVED MY WEEKEND AND MY WALLET!!!
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post #12 of 13 Old 08-12-2012, 03:32 AM
Gohot
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Ok this is sort of from left field, but some years past, VW people were running 45 & 48 IDA's and stuff on Hotrod Bugs and Sand Rails. A good VW shop or tuning Guru might share some info with you or tune yours...?
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post #13 of 13 Old 08-12-2012, 05:39 AM
90DesertTanYJ
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And once you cant stand it anymore, the Weber adapter plate will fit 2 bbl Holleys! Well the ones that are 1-7/8"X3-5/8" anyway. Holley was used on just about everything at one time or another. I saw a write up on a 2v from a 73 Coronet 400 ci. The guy rebuilt/down jetted it some but was extremely happy with his $25 JY find. I like a Holley cuz they are easy to work on and one will find its way to the top of my manifold as soon as some other pressing issues are solved. Who knows I may figgur out that dam DFEV yet.
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