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WEBER 34 on my 89 YJ . . . HELP!

2K views 55 replies 9 participants last post by  TWISTED125 
#1 ·
hi, :wave: I just installed the 34 on my 89 YJ. I ran everything per the instructions but just want to make sure of the vaccuum lines that remain. Will someone PLEASE post some pics of the inside of their engine bay and show me these lines coming from the carb!? Also what lines are not needed, such as the "distribution" block on top of the valve cover with 8? or so fittings on it?? I was also confused about the pipe coming out of the intake base that said to run it to the valve cover, does this mean the rear breather? Also, it said to drill two holes in the top of the intake and run vaccuum lines to them because it needs filtered air>? what lines are these, are they necessary?? :confused: I got it running, starts rough, then a nice idle sets in, around 600 RPM or so. If I power up, say 2k RPM it responds well, but when I hold it at that RPM it sounds like its pulsing. (vrooom rooom rooom room room) haha everyone say that outloud and youll get the idea. I am nuttering it tonight. Could the old ECM be making it do this?? Anyways, any help is much appreciated. And I used the "search" feature . . . all I could find were write ups on the Weber 32/34, and some miss. problems with the 34, but no real write ups on the install of the 34. Thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
I installed the 34 a while ago, mine didnt say anything about drilling any holes? The hole in the botton of the intake base goes to the rear of the valve cover, i think its called the Crank case ventilation system, mine came with a tube for that. I have about 5 to 10 vac lines that i capped because they didnt hook up anyplace. I need to go through and take all of the unused vac lines out of the engine bay becuase they are not needed. My directions told me which lines to hook up to the carb, I think i only hooked up two vac lines and the gas line. I'll post a pic later today, unless someone else does.
 
#3 ·
cool, thanks for the info. Mine came with a hose too, it slid on the tube on the bottom of the cleaner really well, I tried hooking it to the PCV but the sizes were way off. the PCV is significantly smaller. I would love to see your pics, I work a lot better off of pictures. How does yours run after the install? Have you nuttered?
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/50958.pdf
page five, the 4th point down talks about drilling two holes.

Thanks again for the info "Only"!
 
#7 ·
Yeah i'll get pics up tonight.I always use pics, its helps me as much if not more than the writing does. Mine runs way better than it did before, mine always use to stall,and had all of the commom problems of the carter. Now it idles and runs great. I do plan on nuttering it, but i didnt get around to it yet. Hm i guess i must have skipped that step,ha. I havnt had any bad affects from not doing that at least not that i can tell. I'd imagine you would just connect the two pulse air vac lines to the top of of the intake. I might do that just to be safe but it runs perfect without it done for me. That hose that you said was to small, that is suppose to go to the ccv which is on the back of the valve cover, the pvc is on the front of the valve cover, and there is another hose for that one.
 
#11 ·
haha yea, and its a close call when you need to brake REAL quick. Do i slam em and kill the engine? or look for a nice spot to run off on if I need to. My option was usually slam em and pop back into gear if I had any speed left to re start the motor. VERY UNSAFE! I cant wait for those days to be gone.
 
#12 ·
Not sure about the 34, But my instructions for the 32/36 said to drill a hole in the top of the air cleaner so that I could run a line to the back of the valve cover. Filtered air goes in there, and the PCV valve goes in the hole at the front of the valve cover and that line connects to the bottom of the Intake as said above. I didnt do this, Because I didnt want more hose running around. Instead, I bought a small washable filter that plugs into that rear hole.

Another thing to mention here with these weber conversions, is that despite what the people that sold you the carb say, your carb may not be jetted properly for your engine. I just re-jetted mine this morning... when I originally got it, (bought from Redline) It would idle great and run fine around town. When I got on the highway however, It would start to knock. I found that the jets in the secondary circuit were too small, and the mixture was leaning out too much at higher throttle settings. IMO you should buy a jet kit for the carb when you buy the carb.
 
#13 ·
Not sure about the 34, But my instructions for the 32/36 said to drill a hole in the top of the air cleaner so that I could run a line to the back of the valve cover. Filtered air goes in there, and the PCV valve goes in the hole at the front of the valve cover and that line connects to the bottom of the Intake as said above. I didnt do this, Because I didnt want more hose running around. Instead, I bought a small washable filter that plugs into that rear hole.

Another thing to mention here with these weber conversions, is that despite what the people that sold you the carb say, your carb may not be jetted properly for your engine. I just re-jetted mine this morning... when I originally got it, (bought from Redline) It would idle great and run fine around town. When I got on the highway however, It would start to knock. I found that the jets in the secondary circuit were too small, and the mixture was leaning out too much at higher throttle settings. IMO you should buy a jet kit for the carb when you buy the carb.
I see. ill look into this. What jet kit did you buy? And so you put a filter (breather?) on the rear hole in the valve cover or on the actual carb?
 
#14 ·
Yep... I just stuck a breather filter in the rear hole, and put the PCV valve in the front hole... does the same thing as running a line to your air cleaner... but i think its a cleaner installation that way. As for the jet kit, I bought it from redline, They sell kits specific to your carb and your engine displacement... Cost me about 50 bucks IIRC
 
#16 ·
Hope these help a little bit anyway, sorry for some of the unfocused ones and the..dirt. If you want any more specific ones let me know. I'm also still figuring out all of the vac lines i dont need. It will be a lot cleaner looking when i get rid of all of the useless... stuff,ha. As you can see the only vac line hooked up to it is the one from the distributor.

















 
#19 ·
Here are my pics

Here are the shots of where i am right . . . . . . .. . now. Anyone, please look these over, if you see something that looks like it needs to go somewhere, please tell me, I picked up a fuel press regulator and some caps tonight. quick question, does it matter how close to the carb i get the fuel press regulator? or does it matter if its before or after the filter? the after being between the filter and the carb. Thanks in advance, lets get to the pics.


what the hell is this? mine seems to be the only one i can find that has this located here.




that hose that runs over to my battery is the line that i was thinking i was suposed to hook up to the rear valve cover (PCV)? havent cut it, thats why its so long.

what is this? plug it?
c
 
#20 ·


these are the same to hoses as the pic below, taken further down toward the exhaust.




canister, i hope, it had a hose running off of it that ran over to the carb and split to a T with two short ends from there. I plugged the fitting coming out of it for the time being.
 
#22 ·
when you say what the hell is this: I took that off its just emmisions stuff you dont use anymore. You have a pcv valve in the front and the back, i have a pcv in the front and just a ccv fitting in the rear, thats why i thought you were trying to hook the hose up to the wrong place. The two hoses in your hands go to the cat converter, i put those to together with the fitting the kit had, Its just more emmision stuff. That isnt used with the carb. If i missed somthing somone correct me. Hope it helped a bit. Everything look hooked up right to me. Just a matter of getting rid of the things you dont need, and i can only tell you what i know, ha because im still figuring out all of the other stuff i dont need.
 
#23 ·
cool, it definately helped. Thanks a lot for bein on the ball with those pics. maybe with posting pics and bouncing stuff back and forth we can both get squared away. Im going to take care of the "what the hell is that stuff" tonight and hopefully take her for a spin. Ill let ya know how it goes.
 
#24 ·
All of that hosing stuff on the pass side that you are asking about that goes to the exaust can GO BYE BYE!!!!

You will need to plug the port at the cat converter and the connection to the exaust manifold down pipe. I welded them shut but you can figure something out. Some just pinch em shut.

That 3 port bracket on top of the valve cover can go.

That ball under the batt box is the vac resv.

I will copy your pics and put a red X on what you can take out since you are in alabama LOL.
 
#29 ·
PLEASE tell me you have done the nutter bypass????????????
 
#31 ·
I have the wire sitting aside for the bypass. That is my project for tomorrow night. I ditched a lot of the items you marked minus the two most right x's in the bottom pick. I did this before I saw that you had posted pics. I took it for a drive, surprised the hell out of me. No more 3 foot driving, smooth idle. It does idle really low though, like 400 rpm low, Ill adjust that tomorrow as well. What kind of improvements can I expect from doing the nutter from where I am at? It acts a little rough from a cold start, not sure what to make of it. Awesome job with marking my pics by the way, I really appreciate it! :2thumbsup:

JGC - I dont see myself leaving where I'm at, Im 5 minutes away from the beach, 5 minutes away from the trails, and smack dab between mississippi and fla, new orleans is a short drive over. I love the emissions in this state, or the lack there of I should say. Good lookin out on the emissions removal, I had planned on boxing it up and adding it to a shelf anyways. Good luck with your reverse transformation.
 
#30 ·
Oh how I envy you... I live in Arizona and it is just slightly less restrictive than Kalifornia. :(

So I am reading this for the reverse order. I am in the process of connecting that mess of stuff back up on mine! I know, I know why would anyone want to do this! Answer:No emissions crap = No License plate = No Driving.

So far I've spent less than $100 on all of this mess not including the new CAT that I needed anyways. When you compare this to the cost of a Howell EFI $1200 or good 4.0 Swap $1400.

One word of advice... if you think that you may ever want to move to a state with emissions controls, do not throw all of this stuff away. Although I have not spent too much $$$, I have spent several months tracking down all of the pieces. Now I have to start to re-install it this weekend, Oh Joy.
 
#33 ·
ok, well I got a lot of the lines sorted out. Now Im trying to tune it in. cant seem to increase my idle enough. its about 4 - 450 or so right now. Still need to do the nutter bypass. Will this strongly effect some of the problems I am having? I also know for certain that my cat is stopped up, so i will be getting a muffler shop to run me a new system with a new cat. Will this also eleviate some of my idle problems? As in having a hard time passing exhaust through due to the cat being stopped up?? Thank you in advance
 
#34 ·
I would get the cat fixed because that is most certainly effecting your engine performance and tunability.
 
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