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Weber 34 DGEC Versus the Weber 32/36 DGEV

24K views 24 replies 14 participants last post by  Tshark299 
#1 ·
I have an '87 YJ with the V6 4.2L 258 and looking to take out the carb.
Which do I want between the two listed??


Weber 34 DGEC Versus the Weber 32/36 DGEV

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
the 32/36 will be more economic. that is what i use for my DD...i mean i still only get 10 or 11 mph. lol. but it has two ventrilli's, one is 32mm and the other is 36mm. the 32mm is the main one and on normal driving it will be the only one in use. but if you floor it the 36mm will open and it really does throw on the power on the engine. so it is there if you need it. i love mine and have had no problems with it...its easy to tune and work on. can't help you with the 34 though.
 
#3 ·
What are you going to use your jeep for? If its a daily driver/weekend worrior I would go with the 32/36, for the reasons stated by mean90yj. If its going to mostly be a trail rig then go for the 34/34 because it has a little more low end/low throttle power than the 32/36.
 
#6 ·
i think you mean I6 not v6. i have a 34/34(interco) weber and i must say it did give me more torque.mine is also progressive.past half throttle it starts to open up the second barrell.i got it thinking it was just going to be less problems but it did improve throttle responce and torque.
 
#22 ·
I was going to say, I just bought one off Quadratec and I had to call them to ask whether there was any difference between the 32/36 and the 34. I told the guy that it was going to do a lot of daily driving and nothing really challenging trail-wise, and he said to go with the 34. The entry online says 10 to 20% better gas mileage with the 34...not that that's hard?
 
#8 ·
It is STRONGLY recommended.
 
#9 ·
I've got the 34 and love it. Bolted in with no issues. I still have a fuel pressure regulator but haven't installed it yet. I may not. It seems to be running fine without it. The throttle response in 3rd gear was night and day different.

I don't know how much fuel you might save with the 32/36 but who cares. You are driving a vehicle with the aerodynamics of a brick so I doubt that it will really matter in the long or short run.

Jeff
 
#10 ·
Well the 34 is $299 with free shipping and the 32/36 is $379. For $80 maybe its not worth getting the 32/36. But since its a DD maybe it would be nice to have the extra power if needed.

Sounds like either way they are a good choice.

Does anyone know if one is easier to install then the other??

Thanks
 
#12 ·
If you don't mind doing a little carb rebuilding you can pick one up for about $100 on ebay. The adapter plates and throttle kit is about $70 from Redline, rebuild kit about $20. The 32/36 I got came off a BMW 2002 and was jetted perfect for my jeep, according to all the information I gathered here for jetting. So for about $200 my jeep is running great.
 
#14 ·
I didn't do the Weber (MC2100), and I'm no mechanic either - I only started learning anything about auto repair/mods when I bought the Jeep a year ago. I had never swapped a carb before, and it took me about an hour and a half (split between an evening before dark and the next morning) from start to finish. I had already done the Nutter bypass, but that's only an extra 45 minutes or less.
 
#16 ·
FrankieCarbone said:
It is going to be a Daily Driver.
I was looking at getting the kit.
Sounds like the 32/36 is the way to go for me.
Now I just need to find the cheapest kit.

$379 the cheapest I have seen so far.
If you dont care about the electric choke, you can get the exact same 1 with a manual choke (cable) for $289. I just bought mine last week. (its on ebay)
 
#17 ·
#18 ·
Quick question about the 32/36 Weber and the Nutter bypass....


Do I still do this step if I have a Weber 32/36:

Disconnect the vacuum line going to the distributor and plug the port that the it originally went to. Now attach the disconnected vacuum line from the distributor to a tee that you will have to install in the the ported vacuum line. The ported vacuum line is attached to a fitting on the BBD carburetor located on the side towards the valve cover, about 1/2 way up the carb.


Thanks!!
 
#19 ·
FrankieCarbone said:
Quick question about the 32/36 Weber and the Nutter bypass....

Do I still do this step if I have a Weber 32/36:

Disconnect the vacuum line going to the distributor and plug the port that the it originally went to. Now attach the disconnected vacuum line from the distributor to a tee that you will have to install in the the ported vacuum line. The ported vacuum line is attached to a fitting on the BBD carburetor located on the side towards the valve cover, about 1/2 way up the carb.

Thanks!!
i believe that you do. there is an easy to follow diagram in the carb install write up. well for some people anyway (lol) it took me a few tries. too many damm hoses.
 
#20 ·
FrankieCarbone said:
Quick question about the 32/36 Weber and the Nutter bypass....

Do I still do this step if I have a Weber 32/36:

Disconnect the vacuum line going to the distributor and plug the port that the it originally went to. Now attach the disconnected vacuum line from the distributor to a tee that you will have to install in the the ported vacuum line. The ported vacuum line is attached to a fitting on the BBD carburetor located on the side towards the valve cover, about 1/2 way up the carb.

Thanks!!
There's some debate on manifold vs. ported vacuum for the distributer. Mine seems to run smoother on ported vacuum. After installing the carb, I would recommend starting from scratch with the vacuum lines, rather than hacking and splicing what's already there. After installing a Weber carb, the vacuum diagram becomes pretty simple.

 
#21 ·
Put in the new Weber 32/36 and did the Nutter bypass and everything is starting easy and running/idling very well.

Also I found the Weber 32/26 on sale for $328. Can give the link if anyone interested.

Thanks for everyone's help it is much appreciated.
 
#23 ·
Nutter Bypass is a good short-term fix.

If you are going to spend the time and money to fix the carburetor correctly with a Weber, PLEASE take the small extra step and convert to HEI.

HEI systems produce about 45,000 volts, rather than the 20,000 made by the factory Motorcraft setup. This will allow you to run your plug gap at .040, which will make a much better spark and cleaner ignition.

Jeep HEI conversions are cheap. I bought the complete distributor setup, with the gear on Ebay <brand new> for $82 delivered.

The only other thing you need to buy is a set of plug wires for a 1981 chevy truck with an inline 6. I think I spend $19 for the wires.

The entire comversion took me less than an hour.

A Weber and HEI are the two best things you can do to your Jeep. It makes all the difference in the world in terms of performance and reliability.

The factory ignition system is JUNK. The smogged out carburetor is worse! John Nutter had a great idea on decomputerizing the system, but doing it right really means installing HEI and Weber.

I have had really good luck with the 34/34 Weber. It provides good primary economy and has a powerful manual secondary.

Removing all the hoses, wires and sensors will make for a clean engine compartment, and eliminate any confusion about what is what under the hood. Once the new parts are installed and all the smog junk is removed, the engine looks as simple as a tractor motor - the difference is that it will start easily and far out perform the factory setup.

Some states do not allow these modifications. I have no idea how the new system would do in an emissions test.

Even though the old CJ runs great now, I eventually want to stick a Cummins 4BTE Diesel in it. Hey, a guy can dream, right?
 
#24 ·
I would like to update my previous post.

I recently did the "Junkyard TBI" conversion. If one word could describe all my thoughts on this it would be "awesome".

The whole process took less than 8 hours of my life, and cost me about $100 dollars.

I went to the junkyard and asked for a price for all the engine control electronics off a 1993 S-10 pickup, including the harness, throttle body, and ECM. The guy told me $100. I ended up trading him for the old 4.2 head, exhaust manifold and valve cover, which I removed during my 4.0 head swap.

Since the S-10 had a newer ECU, I stopped at a 1990 Astro van on my way out, and grabbed the ECM from it, along with 2 feet of harness.

On the way home, I stopped at the auto parts store and purchased a TBI rebuild kit, 14 PSI electric fuel pump, an o2 sensor, some wire, heat shrink, wire loom and a fuel filter, all for $92.

I went home, and did some internet research from binderbench.com and jeepforum.com on which wire in the harness goes to which sensor and made my own harness in a little over 3 hours.

The thing installed in just a couple hours and works great.

I had a very nice Weber on before, which worked pretty well, but this conversion is SO EASY, and now the Jeep starts with one quick turn of the key. There is no more sputtering on hills or flooding.

One thing to note, is that I did not use the electronic spark control. I used the "EST high reference" wire from the ECM to connect to my tach lead on the HEI distributor, and connected the "switched 12V" to the hot side of the HEI and that was it for pulse reference.

The great thing here, is that all GM TBI systems use the same color wires to the sensors, so making the harness is a breeze.

I would highly encourage anyone to do this and eliminate carbs all together.

For people who are intimidated by a little soldering and wiring, Howell has this conversion with all rebuilt parts and a pre-assembled harness for around $1000. I spent a four hours and did it for only $100 ($200, if you don't have anything to trade to the junkyard).

There is plenty of research material on how to do this available for free on the internet (google search Jeep TBI swap).
 
#25 ·
Yeah! Way to go. :thumbsup: I just recently finished swapping out my Weber'd 4.2 for a MPFI 4.0. I haven't really had a chance to drive it around since I'm swapping the axles out now, but already I'm loving the fuel-injection. Don't get me wrong, I put 40K miles on my 4.2 with the Weber and TFI ignition, and it was so much better than stock.... but in my opinion fuel injection can't be beat. I was actually going to go the junkyard GM TBI route until I came across my low-mileage XJ donor with 4.0 and AX-15 too.
 
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