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#46 | |
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Registered User
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I was able to give my carb set-up a closer inspection, when I got home from work. The conversion kit, which I purchased, is the Weber 34 DGEC. I am not sure about the differences between the 34 and the unit which you guys are describing, but it does look different. If anyone has any know-how, about the 34, please let me know.
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#47 |
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Registered User
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The Weber 34/34 has two barrels that are, get this, 34mm wide. They open together at the same time. So when you are at 50% throttle, both butterfly valves are open half way.
While the 32/36 is also a two barrel carb, the butterfly valves are progressive. When you slowly press the gas down, only the 32mm opens. Once you get to about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way to WOT, the second larger barrel opens up and the 4.2 sounds like a whole new beast. This way you can run the motor like a fuel sipping one barrel, but when you need the power, just slam your foot to the floor and let the two barrels suck in all the air they can.
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1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped. Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003 Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/weber-32-36-install-write-up-382309/ Early YJ Club Member #37 For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite |
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#48 |
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Registered User
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Elvis-
Thank you for sharing your expertise. I got the Weber 34/34 and immediately thought I was over my head - I was going to return the carb until I found this post. Pictures AND step by step directions?? - truely written by a guy, for a guy. I don't have the vac hoses 100% figured out yet, but at least it runs now (didn't before). Thanks again- Jason |
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#49 |
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Registered User
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Anything to help another YJ. Glad the rig is running, let me know if you need anything else.
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1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped. Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003 Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382309 Early YJ Club Member #37 For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite |
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#50 |
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Registered User
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I recently intstalled a weber 34/34 conversion kit. I am not sure about the vacuum hoses !! the jeep does run alot better than with the carter. so far i have not figured out where does the fuel vent hoses that went to the charcoal cannister to the carter carb go to??
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#51 |
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Registered User
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There should be a small hose connection that leades to the vapor vent. I can't find a diagram for that carb. If you could snap some pics of your carb I'm sure we could figure out which one it is. And welcome to the forum!
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1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped. Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003 Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382309 Early YJ Club Member #37 For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite |
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#52 | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chester, New Hampshire
Posts: 282
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Quote:
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1988 Wrangler YJ Laredo, 4.0L H.O., AX-15, NP231 w/HD SYE,D44 locked/D44 w/LSD,4.09 gears Build thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/my-1988-yj-project-bigheep-534340/ 1988 Cherokee Pioneer 4.0L, AW4, NP242, D30/8.25 North East Willy Jeep Organization www.NEWJO.ORG |
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#53 |
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Member
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i have a question i recently installed a weber 34 dgec i tuned it and it runs great the only problem is that i am overheating badly i'v checked everything with the cooling system including the thermostat, coolant mixture, clogged raidiator, water pump, and clutch fan. Before i installed the carburator it ran about 210 and not much higher now it runs 230 and hotter there wasn't a lot of vacuum lines that i could hook back up so i don't have the egr valve hooked up i'm not even really sure where i can hook it up since i can only find one place on the base plate to hook vacuum lines could this be why it's running hot anyone have any idea?
It will run to about 225-230 driving, sitting in traffic i'v had it run past 250 0.o |
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#54 |
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Registered User
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Be sure you are not running too lean, that can cause some overheating. Also check your timing, if its too far advanced it can cause the same condition. Did you Nutter your 4.2 after the swap?
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1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped. Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003 Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382309 Early YJ Club Member #37 For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite |
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#55 |
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Member
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no i didn't nutter it i have the electronic choke and as far as i knew it took the ecu out of the picture it's quite possible that im wrong but i didn't want the choke to stop working
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#56 |
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Registered User
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The choke has nothing to do with the computer, it controls itself. When you swap out the carb to one that does not have electronic feedback (like going from a carter to a weber) the ECU is not out of the picture, it just has no clue what the carb is doing so it can dance the timing around all it wants. That's why you 'Nutter' the ECU so that it can no longer retard the timing and it then has no idea that the engine is even running anymore.
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1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped. Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003 Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382309 Early YJ Club Member #37 For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite |
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#57 |
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Registered User
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Weber Running Rich
I have a few questions. I installed my 32/36 weber several months ago and it RUNS perfectly. I have an '83 CJ7 w/ 258. Nuttered and Team Rushed. I attempted to install the FPR in the initial install but the CJ wouldn't start with it on so I took it off. Since then I have to prime it 10-15 times if I let the CJ sit for an hour or more before it will start. Here are my questions:
Should I have realized any jump in MPG's (mine stayed at 14mpg)? Should it take that much to start it? I failed the emissions testing becuase im running extremely rich (4 times the allowable amount!). What did I do wrong? What can I do to fix it? Thanks in advance for the help. Dustin.
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1983 Jeep CJ7 White Team Rush, Halogen Headlights, Nutter Bypass, more to come... "There is no mechanical problem too tough that cannot be fixed by brute strength and ignorance." "Remember, Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic." |
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#58 |
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Registered User
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In picture #6
You have some hoses # 4,5,6 I assume those are vacuum hoses which no longer have a purpose as far as this transfer is concerned yes? They must be tied together and plugged? As I see it there is only one vacuum that needs to be hooked up in the conversion? I do not have power breaks so I plugged the bottom of the adapter with the black adapter plug that came with the conversion. Is that OK to do? I see it like this there is a gas intake, a breather out that goes to the canister and a vacuum hose that has to be be hooked up. Am I missing anything else for my 1980 CJ7. The PVC now has to be redirected to the canister as well as right now it is being directed to the carb itself toward the back and bottom. Thank you so much for your post it was so very helpful for even someone like me who does not have a clue but wants to.
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Christopher Sampson[SIZE="6"][/SIZE][COLOR="DarkRed"][/COLOR] |
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#59 |
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Registered User
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I numbered the hoses so I knew what port was what on the Carter and thought that might help when I needed to hook up the Weber because I was not 100% sure what hoses I was going to reuse. For your setup I'm guessing there is a lot of stuff that can be removed. Basically if a hose had anything to do with things like the Pulse Air System (not sure if the CJ7 had this on the 4.2) I removed it. In the write-up there is a diagram of my vacuum setup. So you can follow that, if there is a part you don't have, then just skip it and only hook up what you need to. Capping lines is fine, as long as it is air tight, I just wanted the cleaner look of removing the black squids that appeared to inhabit my engine bay
. The PCV should be hooked up to a manifold vacuum source (like where the brake booster would hook up) not the charcoal canister. Also if your dist. has a vacuum advance that should have a line hooked up to the "EGR" port on the Weber, not the "Advance" port. I know it's a lot of info, hope some of this helps.
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1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped. Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003 Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382309 Early YJ Club Member #37 For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite |
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#60 |
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Registered User
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Well I got it running
I do have a vacuum advance which is hooked up to a exhaust manifold looking thing. The Weber I got only has the one vacuum hookup. In your diagram it shows two. It looks like there is a brass hole plug as well as a very thin adjustment looking thing next to that. Which one is which? Its running really good but i was disappointed with the horse power thought it would get stronger it might be that I still don't have it hooked up properly
I also used the regulator and i could not get it to run once I took it out it ran? Also on my Jeep there is another hole in the Value Cover that use to run into the Air Filter Case with a tiny filer in that case what do I need to do with that now?
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Christopher Sampson[SIZE="6"][/SIZE][COLOR="DarkRed"][/COLOR] Last edited by csampson1; 11-07-2008 at 07:21 PM.. |
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