Weber 32/36 Install Write-up - Page 3

My77cj5 · 03-04-2007, 08:49 PM

I am thinking EGR. My old Carter YF did not pull too much vacuum. In fact there was really no suction at all. I think with this new Weber the vacuum is so good that it has highlighted a bad EGR valve. it may be stuck part open. I hate to just change the part, but I may have to try it.

Was the lean / rich easy to tune. The last carb I had I could not really see any difference in the idle or how it ran no matter where the screw was adjusted.

YJ Rider · 03-04-2007, 09:00 PM

I have the same issue as well. I did the Nutter and it helped a little but it is still there. I can tell you that my EGR is shot and I do not know if it is open or closed. I think I have my fuel mixture correct although I am not 100% sure.
If someone can answer this I will be thrilled.

ElvisV04290 · 03-04-2007, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My77cj5

Was the lean / rich easy to tune. The last carb I had I could not really see any difference in the idle or how it ran no matter where the screw was adjusted.

I could tell right away when the engine was running smooth and then dropped off in RPMs. So I don't think the Weber was that hard to tune. But then again, the carter was never 'tuned', I just had it running like crud or somewhat better crud.

bgredjeep · 03-05-2007, 08:53 PM

Can't help with the emissions stuff. I'm running holley ignition, blocked off EGR, and pretty much none of the other emissions equipment that came with the Jeep.

YJ Rider · 03-07-2007, 06:47 AM

I played with my fuel mixture this weekend and it seemed to help...

parakleets · 05-14-2007, 12:02 PM

Quick question (s):

1. The instructions made not mention of gasket sealer. Is this important, if I am not experiencing fuel leaks?

2. I am using the Weber air cleaner, which has no port to attach the aluminum foil exhaust gas recirc tube. Where should this foil tube go, now. If it is not needed, any suggestions for plugging the hole?

ElvisV04290 · 05-14-2007, 12:12 PM

1. You want gasket sealer to keep it air and water tight. But you need to use a non-silicone or RTV sealer.

2. Not 100% on what you mean. Are you talking about the line that goes from the air cleaner to the PCV system? Maybe a picture of what you are talking about would help.

Tshark299 · 05-14-2007, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parakleets

Quick question (s):

1. The instructions made not mention of gasket sealer. Is this important, if I am not experiencing fuel leaks?

2. I am using the Weber air cleaner, which has no port to attach the aluminum foil exhaust gas recirc tube. Where should this foil tube go, now. If it is not needed, any suggestions for plugging the hole?

If the gaskets are not leaking without the sealant then don't worry about it. In the past I had chronic problems with those gaskets eventually starting to leak so I started using the sealant, but I later figured out the main problem for me was the adapter plate screws loosening up. That's why I'd suggest red loctite on those threads. I tried blue and they still loosened up, red seems be holding a little better. I still use the sealant for good measure, and you'll still be able to get those screws out with the red loctite on them if you need to.

Are you talking about the Pulse Air Tubes (2 thin tubes that connect the air cleaner to the exhaust pipe right after the manifold and the catalytic converter) or the large metal duct that connected the factory air cleaner to the center of the exhaust manifold?

ElvisV04290 · 05-14-2007, 01:40 PM

Pulse air system sounds more like it. I riped all that stuff out. And then folded the openings over on the exhaust pipe and the cat and then put high temp JB Weld stuff on 'em. Pluged them up real good.

parakleets · 05-14-2007, 02:15 PM

The large metal duct, which looks like a dryer exhaust hose. It was attached to the bottom of the factory air cleaner box (4.2 straight 6), and exhaust manifold. The Weber air box does not have a spot for this duct, so I currently have it folded over, but it still spews exhaust gas (when the Jeep runs).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tshark299

If the gaskets are not leaking without the sealant then don't worry about it. In the past I had chronic problems with those gaskets eventually starting to leak so I started using the sealant, but I later figured out the main problem for me was the adapter plate screws loosening up. That's why I'd suggest red loctite on those threads. I tried blue and they still loosened up, red seems be holding a little better. I still use the sealant for good measure, and you'll still be able to get those screws out with the red loctite on them if you need to.

Are you talking about the Pulse Air Tubes (2 thin tubes that connect the air cleaner to the exhaust pipe right after the manifold and the catalytic converter) or the large metal duct that connected the factory air cleaner to the center of the exhaust manifold?

ElvisV04290 · 05-14-2007, 02:22 PM

I think that's the pre-heater for the carb, it should only be taking hot air off the manifold to heat the carb till the heat from the engine block can take over. It should not have a hole going into the exhaust, should just be a cover over the manifold. I have mine taken off, runs just fine, its really meant for winter to keep the carb from freezing over.

Correct me if im wrong Tshark

parakleets · 05-14-2007, 02:26 PM

That is it, exactly! Don't bother covering it up? What about water, dirt, etc...?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ElvisV04290

I think that's the pre-heater for the carb, it should only be taking hot air off the manifold to heat the carb till the heat from the engine block can take over. It should not have a hole going into the exhaust, should just be a cover over the manifold. I have mine taken off, runs just fine, its really meant for winter to keep the carb from freezing over.

Correct me if im wrong Tshark