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Old 03-03-2007, 04:04 PM   #16
goatboy
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Real nice write up!!! I was considering the Mopar EFI conversion, might do this one instead just to get it past smog out here in the Land o' Fruits, Nuts, and Tailpipe Sniffers! Hmmmm...reckon you can take that more than one way...

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Old 03-03-2007, 06:10 PM   #17
My77cj5
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Hey what a great write up. I have an EGR question on my 77 CJ 5. I have the PCV attached to the vacuum port on the adaptor plate and tee'd to the CTO and the purge on the charcoal canister. On the other port of the CTO I go to the EGR valve. Looking at the drawing should I be using the vacuum advance port to attach to the CTO?

I just did the weber conversion it's the 34 for the cater YF one barrel.

Thanks for you help
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Old 03-03-2007, 06:30 PM   #18
ElvisV04290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My77cj5
Hey what a great write up. I have an EGR question on my 77 CJ 5. I have the PCV attached to the vacuum port on the adaptor plate and tee'd to the CTO and the purge on the charcoal canister. On the other port of the CTO I go to the EGR valve. Looking at the drawing should I be using the vacuum advance port to attach to the CTO?

I just did the weber conversion it's the 34 for the cater YF one barrel.

Thanks for you help
I'm guessing the 77 CJ-5 has a 258 so I'll see how I can help. I have my hoses set up just as in the picture and it's all running great. I would think you would want the PCV hooked up to the manifold vacuum and the canister. If the engine is not running well, maybe try looking into redirecting your hoses? Good luck, sorry if this was of no help.
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1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped.
Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003

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Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/weber-32-36-install-write-up-382309/
Early YJ Club Member #37
For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite
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Old 03-03-2007, 08:16 PM   #19
My77cj5
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Thanks for the feedback. And again great info!
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Old 03-03-2007, 08:19 PM   #20
offroadyjguy
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I am running same carb on fresh 4.2 mine runs rich. Is it brcause of not having a fuel regulator?
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Old 03-03-2007, 11:54 PM   #21
ElvisV04290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offroadyjguy
I am running same carb on fresh 4.2 mine runs rich. Is it brcause of not having a fuel regulator?
I was told the YJ's fuel pump runs at 7 or 9 psi. I drove mine for 2 days without the regulator and it did run rich, but then again I did a poor initial tuning. I would get the regulator for the long run, but have you also checked your mixture settings or if they are OK, do you need to have different jets for it? The link in the write-up does a good job of setting the mixture and what conditions require re-jetting along with what size to go with. The Weber can take a maximum of 3psi, so like said, I would get the regulator anyways. Hope this helps.

Looks like I'm the Weber "go to" guy, keep the questions comming and I'll try to help anyone out.
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1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped.
Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003

Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com
Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382309
Early YJ Club Member #37
For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite
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Old 03-03-2007, 11:58 PM   #22
ElvisV04290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goatboy
Real nice write up!!! I was considering the Mopar EFI conversion, might do this one instead just to get it past smog out here in the Land o' Fruits, Nuts, and Tailpipe Sniffers! Hmmmm...reckon you can take that more than one way...
I would think the EFI would run cleaner than a carb since it mixes better, but I did pass Illinois emission laws with my Weber.
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1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped.
Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003

Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com
Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382309
Early YJ Club Member #37
For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:20 PM   #23
My77cj5
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Just an update. Hooked the hose up like the diagram. It is running great. Any idea why I might get a little back fire when I hit the gas in second?

Thanks
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:32 PM   #24
sandman'sjeep
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Hate to hijack this thread guys but would like your input...My DD 258 I6 87YJ has been using the weber for about 2yrs now. I've tried using a fuel regulator in the beginning but my Jeep always stalled out. I took it off and use the Carb just as is... Is there anything wrong with this... I followed the directions for the PSI and location where it should be installed...
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:38 PM   #25
offroadyjguy
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I have been running mine for about 8 months it runs a little rich but no ill effects
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Old 03-04-2007, 03:06 PM   #26
ElvisV04290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My77cj5
Just an update. Hooked the hose up like the diagram. It is running great. Any idea why I might get a little back fire when I hit the gas in second?

Thanks
glad to hear its running better, is it a true backfire or just a pop with loss of power for a second and the picks up really fast?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sandman'sjeep
Hate to hijack this thread guys but would like your input...My DD 258 I6 87YJ has been using the weber for about 2yrs now. I've tried using a fuel regulator in the beginning but my Jeep always stalled out. I took it off and use the Carb just as is... Is there anything wrong with this... I followed the directions for the PSI and location where it should be installed...
When does it stall? At idle? Under heavy acceleration? Do you have the mixture set properly? mine ran really poor when it was not adjusted the right way first time around. Did the jeep run any better with the regulator removed? if not then I would keep it in and set it to 3PSI as the max, I think I'm running 2.5PSI now.
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1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped.
Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003

Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com
Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382309
Early YJ Club Member #37
For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite
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Old 03-04-2007, 04:12 PM   #27
bgredjeep
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I ran mine for about 3 years before I installed a regulator (weber came with the Jeep and I knew nothing about it). A few of the things I noticed after the regulator was install are:

1. I don't smell like gas every time I drive the Jeep any more
2. No black smoke (gas) out the exhaust on heavy acceleration
3. It keeps running on steep climbs where before it would flood and stall
4. better throttle response at lower RPMs
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Old 03-04-2007, 05:40 PM   #28
Tshark299
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Location: Upstate NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My77cj5
Hey what a great write up. I have an EGR question on my 77 CJ 5. I have the PCV attached to the vacuum port on the adaptor plate and tee'd to the CTO and the purge on the charcoal canister. On the other port of the CTO I go to the EGR valve. Looking at the drawing should I be using the vacuum advance port to attach to the CTO?

I just did the weber conversion it's the 34 for the cater YF one barrel.

Thanks for you help
You'll want these vacuum lines connected to ported vacuum like the picture shows. Manifold vacuum will cause the canister to purge and the EGR valve to open at idle, which is not what you want. These events should only happen at part throttle.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ElvisV04290
Looks like I'm the Weber "go to" guy, keep the questions comming and I'll try to help anyone out.
hehe, i used to consider myself somewhat the same around these parts a couple years ago. The Weber was the first modification I made to my Jeep 2 weeks after I bought it, and it led me to learn how every fuel, ignition, and emission system for the 4.2L works in and out. I spent every day reading everything I could on these things, and then experimenting with my engine. I was obsessed! It's paid off though becauase literally the only time I open my hood now is to change the oil and top off fluids.

Excellent write-up, Elvis.
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'87 YJ Laredo - 4.0L, AX-15, NP231, 4.10s: 3.5" BDS, 31" Muds

'95 XJ - Donated drive train to the YJ, Parting the rest out

'51 CJ-3A - Buick 225 V6: Painless Wiring Harness, Warn Overdrive & Hubs, 2" Lift, 31" Muds
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Old 03-04-2007, 07:56 PM   #29
My77cj5
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It is a pop with a loss of power. It happens under heavy acceleration. Could I have a bad EGR valve, maybe too much vacuum on the EGR? Or do I need to adjust the carb Lean / Rich. Timing and idle are good. Thanks in advance for your help
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Old 03-04-2007, 08:11 PM   #30
ElvisV04290
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Macomb, Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My77cj5
It is a pop with a loss of power. It happens under heavy acceleration. Could I have a bad EGR valve, maybe too much vacuum on the EGR? Or do I need to adjust the carb Lean / Rich. Timing and idle are good. Thanks in advance for your help
I am having the same problem. I normaly don't put my foot to the floor, but when I have the very same thing happen. I was looking into it being an EGR problem but I don't know how to check it and see if its bad. I have the lean best setting on the carb. I don't know what to tell you. If anyone else has any ideas, feel free to post!
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1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped.
Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003

Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com
Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382309
Early YJ Club Member #37
For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite
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