Weber 32/36 install please help! Any help at all!!!

bluedaffy · 04-05-2012, 08:49 PM

Please take a look at my questions and symptoms I would love ANY ADVICE.I am just beside myself right now, ever since I did the nutter and installed my brand new weber 32/36 I've been having nothing but trouble trying to get my YJ to run right. The engine only has 30k miles on it and I really want to get everything right, I won't settle for driving it in "just gets by" kind of set up.

Here is what I've been through
*Completed the nutter
*Installed weber for the first time, could not get it to idle with 1.5 turns in on the idle speed screw and trying every possible position on the mix screw.
* Today I cut a piece of sheet metal to block off the egr because it wasn't functional anyway (the pipe was missing when I bought it and I put bolts in both holes where it once connected, so the egr diaphragm was just sitting there doing nothing and I didn't trust it so I blocked it off).
*Today I took off the weber AND base plates, torqued them down well to make sure they were solid, and the gaskets were still like new. Put the weber back on and fired it up... she won't idle.

I have a plethora of symptoms & questions, PLEASE ANYBODY AND EVERYBODY THAT KNOWS ABOUT ANY OF THESE PLEASE HELP!!!

Symptoms-
A) When I rev the engine, the rpms drop very fast when I let off. Does this ALWAYS mean there is a vacuum leak?

B) When I hold the throttle down to keep it running, it is not smooth, it shakes as though a cylinder isn't firing... but they are.

C) When I let off the throttle completely the jeep dies obviously but there is a distinct splashing sound that accompanies the death. It sounds like gas splashing up the carb, but it could be something else.

Questions-
1) Because I want to be sure that there isn't a vacuum leak in one of the components I'm hooking the lines up to what is the bare minimum that needs to be hooked up for the engine to run right after the nutter? I will put them all back in the circuit after I'm sure the carb is plumbed right. I don't want something like a bad charcoal canister to make me think that I don't have the carb mounted correctly.

2) The FWD vacuum doesn't need to be hooked up for any of this tuning does it?

Thank you for any responses, I'll take em all. I am very confused about all of this.

**Jims-87YJ** · 04-05-2012, 09:31 PM

Ok I will start, what is your timing set to? I think it should be about 8° BTC if I recall correctly.
Recheck your base plates, there were some of them that are not milled flat enough and you will get a Vacuum leak there.
Have you let it run long enough to let the Choke open up all of the way?
The FWD does not need to be hooked up.
That's all I have, if you have not done a search yet there are a couple of very good threads on here that can really help you out, search Weber or Weber 32/36.

CB10101 · 04-05-2012, 09:53 PM

I'll start off by saying I agree with Jims...Sounds like your timing is off, shoukd be about 8 deg before at idle with the vacuum hose disconnected and plugged. Also, are you using a pressure regulator to limit to 3-4 psi into the carb? Make sure your adaptor plates are smooth by either giving em a go on a belt sander or putting a sheet of sand paper on the floor and rub them out. Check for vacuum leaks everywhere and the check for vacuum leaks again. The 1.5 turns never worked for me, I was always closer to 2 but I also live at 4200 ft and didn't rejet for ,y elevation.
Hope this helps

CB10101 · 04-05-2012, 09:55 PM

I also, obviously, can't type on this ipad

giggityjeeper · 04-05-2012, 10:24 PM

A sounds liek a vac leak...

B sounds like timing is wayout...

C it is backfiring thru the carb, that is sound... so timing again

make sure ALLLLLLL the vac lines you removed when you ditched the carter are plugged....

bluedaffy · 04-05-2012, 10:25 PM

Thanks so much for the advice. Just a little update with some more information. I currently have my the two ported cto nipples hooked up to vacuum advance port on the weber and the purge nipple on the cto going to the canister and the egr nipple capped... Is this right? Particularly referring to the egr nipple on the cto valve, if I am not using the egr this should be capped off am I correct?

I just put the cto valve into the loop because I was reading on the necessity of it, it made everything a lot smoother when I hold the throttle down, it wasn't chugging anymore.

If I start the engine and hold the throttle so it is about at 2000 rpms and slowly back off the throttle when the rpms get to about 1300-1500 the jeep dies. Instantly. I can actually hear something click and it dies. Could somebody please give me some insight on what could be if you happen to have an idea?

Also I am concerned about symptom C in my first post, what is this splashing sound?

giggityjeeper · 04-05-2012, 10:33 PM

the splashing sound is it backfiring thru the carb I think...

do you have a fule pressure regulator on it? and if you dont get one!! if you do what is it set att??

what is your timing set at, it needs to be 8-9 BTDC I think.... been along time since I did mine....

If u hold it at 2000 rpms does it stay running.... grab some carb cleaner and hold the throttle down and spray around the base plates, if the throttle changes you have a leak.... CHEKC and make sure all your lines are capped off from removing hte carter..... you would be amazed how small a vac leak can screw things up

you haveto make sure your timing is on, then get your mixture screws set..... timing is crucial as is making sure you have no vac leaks....

bluedaffy · 04-05-2012, 10:40 PM

how should I go about setting my timing without a nice low idle? If I just hold it at 1500 rpm, disconnect the vac advance from the carb and plug it... will this give me and accurate timing?

bluedaffy · 04-06-2012, 08:46 AM

Also, my pcv rattles when I shake it but if I take it out of the valve cover while the engine is running I can barely hear a hiss at at. My logic is telling me for whatever reason that the pcv is not drawing enough air? Does this sound right?

bluedaffy · 04-07-2012, 08:29 AM

I really didn't want to have to do this, but I will offer to anybody that can help me a $.20 coupon off a big mac at participating McDonalds in the central Wisconsin area.

AC_Spiderman · 04-07-2012, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluedaffy

how should I go about setting my timing without a nice low idle? If I just hold it at 1500 rpm, disconnect the vac advance from the carb and plug it... will this give me and accurate timing?

um thought you were supposed to do that first when you dialed in a carb?
you are trying to get a baseline setting so advance is not part of the initial equation.

roadyrob · 04-07-2012, 10:10 AM

OK, its lunch time and I'm hungry. set the timing by ear to get close, plug vac and rotate dizzy till it runs the best. get a can of carb cleaner and spray around the adapter plate and vac lines, if rpms change theres your leak. yes you should have good vac from the pcv tube, use the carb cleaner to clean it.
I'll take mine with fries please.