Wait time before vinyl on fresh paint? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 12-24-2013, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
J-Quad
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Wait time before vinyl on fresh paint?

Hi Fellas,
The body work is finally coming to a close and fresh paint will soon be sprayed on the 'ol YJ. My question: I want to lay a vinyl 'splash' graphic on the door/rear quarterpanel again. Has anyone seen any recommendations as to how long do I need to wait for the paint to cure adequately before I can lay down the new vinyl?

I'm not talking about a body wrap or such, but maybe 8" x 40" on each side....

I recall my friend telling me to wait 60-90 days before waxing over new paint; is that probably the case with the vinyl as well?

Thanks in Advance for any & all recommendations are welcome!

J-Quad


-- '95 YJ, 4-cyl, 5-speed.
From Dec-Mar, it wears an 80" snowplow. From Apr-Nov, it gets muddy on the 2-tracks!
"War does not determine who is right, war determines who is left."
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post #2 of 18 Old 12-24-2013, 09:17 AM
jsawduste
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Sorry my crystal ball is broken.

Solvent base or water base ? Clear top coat or not ? Drying conditions, type of primer ?

Ever think to ask the paint manufacture ?
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post #3 of 18 Old 12-24-2013, 10:12 AM
SeanB95YJ
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as jsaw said, it depends on the paint (and also temp/humidity during cure time)... could be as little as a couple weeks or as much as several months for FULL cure

Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
swap/build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/a...hread-1542284/
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post #4 of 18 Old 12-24-2013, 11:01 AM
tom_sprecher
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From my experience I would wait as long as you can.

Tom
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post #5 of 18 Old 12-24-2013, 11:12 AM
Shadownwpa
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Garage
look at the paint can for the cure time

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/shadownwpa-91ish-yj-build-thread-1857154/
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post #6 of 18 Old 12-24-2013, 01:13 PM
rubisean
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i put factory decals back on the day after i paint, i also have clear 3M bras installed the next day too. the way i see it is if the paint is forced dry then the solvents evaporate eliminating solvent pop. i know i may catch flack for my method, everyone has their opinion on how long to wait..... but this is the way i have been doing it for many years as an automotive painter and bodyman. if it would make you sleep better waiting 90 days so be it, certainly it is you choice.... good luck
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post #7 of 18 Old 12-25-2013, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
J-Quad
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Everyone;
Thanks for your input!

I'll need to ask about the paint, since I don't know (yet) what is going on it.

Does anyone have a favorite vinyl graphics provider they'd care to recommend?

J-Quad

-- '95 YJ, 4-cyl, 5-speed.
From Dec-Mar, it wears an 80" snowplow. From Apr-Nov, it gets muddy on the 2-tracks!
"War does not determine who is right, war determines who is left."
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post #8 of 18 Old 12-26-2013, 09:09 AM
kingcat400
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i normal give it a day after cure to install decals. the decals are going to burn in anyway so it is not like you are going to make it better down the road by waiting.

why put the splash's back on? i had mine off the day i bought my jeep. and even after being taking down to metal primed and painted you can still see the outline of them.
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post #9 of 18 Old 12-26-2013, 09:19 AM
Luuca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingcat400 View Post
i normal give it a day after cure to install decals. the decals are going to burn in anyway so it is not like you are going to make it better down the road by waiting.

why put the splash's back on? i had mine off the day i bought my jeep. and even after being taking down to metal primed and painted you can still see the outline of them.
That's not possible. Sorry. The ONLY way you get a ghost outline like that is if you don't properly sand and prep the surface. Take any decal you want and place it on a painted car door. Leave it there as long as you want in any weather conditions you want, and taking the door down to bare metal will erase any sign the decal was there. Either you didn't take the door down to bare metal or you didn't get what you paid for from the body shop.

91 YJ "Alice" 2.5L, AX5, 2.5" OME 36Rs, Revolvers, 32" Yoko ATs, 4.10 D30/35 Aussie Lockers F/R Busted Knuckles YJOTM never
05 LJ Rubicon "Ghost"

Luck Favours The Prepared
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post #10 of 18 Old 12-26-2013, 09:45 AM
Jeepsr4me
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Well Its possible. But here is what happened. He sanded the bare metal and the decal at same time.. When you do that the metal is slightly gouged wher4e the decal was not protecting the metal. So it is possible to have a "to the bare metal part" and still see what was on it.
But it does get back to poor prep and improper sanding.
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post #11 of 18 Old 12-26-2013, 09:51 AM
Luuca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
Well Its possible. But here is what happened. He sanded the bare metal and the decal at same time.. When you do that the metal is slightly gouged wher4e the decal was not protecting the metal. So it is possible to have a "to the bare metal part" and still see what was on it.
But it does get back to poor prep and improper sanding.
SOrry to hear this is what happened to you. I often talk to people who have just "let things go" when dealing with a paint job "because it's too much hassle" or "it looks OK". I'm guilty of it myself. But now I've taken a different approach. If I am clear on what I want, and the service provider demonstrates to me before he starts that he understands exactly what the finished product is going to be, then I have no issue holding them to that. I don't give them wiggle room because I have detailed discussions and get the end results in writing before we start. But then again, it's a YJ...

91 YJ "Alice" 2.5L, AX5, 2.5" OME 36Rs, Revolvers, 32" Yoko ATs, 4.10 D30/35 Aussie Lockers F/R Busted Knuckles YJOTM never
05 LJ Rubicon "Ghost"

Luck Favours The Prepared
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post #12 of 18 Old 12-26-2013, 11:08 AM
kingcat400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
That's not possible. Sorry. The ONLY way you get a ghost outline like that is if you don't properly sand and prep the surface. Take any decal you want and place it on a painted car door. Leave it there as long as you want in any weather conditions you want, and taking the door down to bare metal will erase any sign the decal was there. Either you didn't take the door down to bare metal or you didn't get what you paid for from the body shop.
No sir YOU are the one that is wrong here. when you leave a sticker on long enough you actually have a situation were the shape is etched into the metal no amount of grinding will make it go away. my family has been doing professional body work for 3 generations. I think i know what i am talking about when it comes to paint and body work and have many trophies to prove it.
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post #13 of 18 Old 12-26-2013, 11:10 AM
kingcat400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
Well Its possible. But here is what happened. He sanded the bare metal and the decal at same time.. When you do that the metal is slightly gouged wher4e the decal was not protecting the metal. So it is possible to have a "to the bare metal part" and still see what was on it.
But it does get back to poor prep and improper sanding.

decals were removed months before bodywork began.
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post #14 of 18 Old 12-26-2013, 11:24 AM
Jeepsr4me
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HEHE,. I too been in the paint business, but with aircraft.. Those boogers are a pain. and every thing and anything can go wrong.
I could have went on about other ways to get a ghost image, but figured one was good enough to prove to those that dont know how it can happen. I had not even read what was going on other wise.
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post #15 of 18 Old 12-26-2013, 11:41 AM
Luuca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingcat400 View Post
No sir YOU are the one that is wrong here. when you leave a sticker on long enough you actually have a situation were the shape is etched into the metal no amount of grinding will make it go away. my family has been doing professional body work for 3 generations. I think i know what i am talking about when it comes to paint and body work and have many trophies to prove it.
So you're telling me that on a 20+year old jeep, where the paint still has at least some shine, and the original stickers are on it, that stripping that door with media blasting, smoothing the metal, applying primer, skim coats as needed, block sanding, applying a layer of modern 1 or even 2-stage paint, your 3 generations of paint professionals can't make it look as if that sticker was never there?

Or are you talking about a 20+ year old vehicle wherein the paint is basically gone around the sticker, and rust has pitted the metal around the sticker? That I can believe.

91 YJ "Alice" 2.5L, AX5, 2.5" OME 36Rs, Revolvers, 32" Yoko ATs, 4.10 D30/35 Aussie Lockers F/R Busted Knuckles YJOTM never
05 LJ Rubicon "Ghost"

Luck Favours The Prepared
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