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-   -   Vacuum line help- After Nutter Bypass (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/vacuum-line-help-after-nutter-bypass-1540220/)

Cobra21 06-23-2013 11:05 AM

Vacuum line help- After Nutter Bypass
 
4 Attachment(s)
Several people advised that my vacuum lines are not correct which might be a reason for problems following the Nutter Bypass.

So decided to just take off everything and start from scratch. The PO seemed to have capped off several lines and routed them to places that did not make sense. Any help identifying each port and where it goes. Thanks

A and B- One of these gets capped off after the bypass. Where does the other one go? Maybe for the 4WD?

C- It is missing a port. How do we add a port? C gets connected via a T to the distributor line as part of the Nutter bypass we believe. Where does the other side of the T continue to?

D- Located directly under the Stepper Moter. The PO had it connect to F

E- Located rear of carb, driver side. Sorry the picture is a little rough. The vacuum line in the bottom of the picture goes to the booster if that helps. The previous owner had it capped off. We have no idea what it was for.

F- We believe that is the choke actuator? Gets connected where?

G- This is a larger port located to the rear of the carb. PO had that one connected to the PVC valve directly. That did not seem correct.

H- EGR valve correct? Does that get connected to the CTO?

I and J- Located front top of the carburetor. PO had them connected then dropped off into the engine bay. That did not seem right.

Anyways I need to rerun all of these lines and have no idea what goes where. Any help would be great. Thanks

dancytron 06-23-2013 11:52 AM

Taking everything off and starting from scratch has made the job a lot harder. It is a lot easier to remove the items and vacuum lines that aren't needed after the Nutter bypass one by one. You've turned an easy job into a hard one.

This may help. http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/control.htm

Cobra21 06-25-2013 07:32 PM

update
 
update for everyone. found another thread on this forum that helped a lot. Did not remove ALL the vacuum lines, just the lines from the Carter carburetor. Jeep had NOTHING connected to the CTO. The canister had only 2 lines (one to the gas tank the other to the vacuum lines to the air filter assembly

So here is what was done:

-Connected H to the to the CTO
-Connected F to D
-Connected G to the PVC on the front PVC valve on the valve cover
-Connected I and J to the charcoal canister (PO had nothing connected to the canister)
-E capped.

Here is where help is needed
-C. appears to just be either a broken port or un-accessed. Just going to either leave it alone or "cap" it somehow.

-B- connected to the CTO and "t" to the distributor (instead of using "c"). In the Nutter bypass threads, this port is capped.

-A- think that is a vacuum advanced (which also connects to the break booster). Going to connect that to the 4WD vacuum line?

connected a line from the canister to the CTO as well. Again, there was no line connected to the CTO

superj 06-25-2013 08:55 PM

Your pics aren't loading

90DesertTanYJ 06-26-2013 08:03 PM

Once you do the Nutter, there is very little that requires vacuum. 95% of the vac stuff was tied to the BBD and is useless now. I pulled a whole shopping bag of solenoids and vac hoses off mine and another bag of wiring and the ECU which is also basically useless as it was there to run the BBD and no other reason. You need to take the brake booster vac from the manifold or base of carb, dunno on the BBD cuz mine doesnt have one. You need vac to the dizzy and mine had a tee too there and it continued to the CAD system. I locked my CAD fork overt so I deleted the vac to it as the Jeep ran like crap cuz the CAD or the T/C switch was bad. There will be a small line from the manifold that leads thru the firewall to the HVAC blend door. PCV should connect to the air cleaner. Charcoal canister....well mine wasnt hooked up to the vac but I understand it basically takes gas vapors from the canister and burns them too. I dont have any EPA so it wasnt an issue to have all of it gone. Check your local laws and make sure your not putting it all back on again to get thru Emissions.

It is also suggested to get an earlier dizzy (pre emissions) or fiddle with the advance weights in your OEM one, do a search for more details here as I havent goten that far yet.

Good luck!

Cobra21 06-29-2013 02:27 PM

Sorry about the pics. But I got all the vacuum lines hooked up. Turns out the ECU was shot so I had to replace that. I think the previous owner had a Weber on and had it nuttered. So when he gave it to the dealer he took off the Weber and undid the nutter so the dealer would be able to buy it legally.

Now the jeep runs great! I have it idling around 700-800 Rpms but I could get it down to about 500 if I wanted to. Still need to get the timing right because when I shut it off it sputters for a few seconds and then quits. I also highly advise anyone to drill out the idle pickup tubes to .036 or something like that. Its really easy and simple.

When I rev the engine up to about 3000 rpms it backfires as it returns to idling speed. I don't know how serious that it is or how to fix it so any suggestions would be great.

superj 06-29-2013 07:44 PM

Vacuum leaks probably are causing the troubles you have left

Cobra21 07-02-2013 07:06 PM

Sorry I replaced the Ignition module on my jeep not the ECU. Now I got a timing light so im going to get it running right tonight.


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