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Unread 06-21-2010, 10:10 PM   #76
MoparFreak69
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 1,278
Sorry for the lack of updates guys. I have been slowly narrowing down and working out problems. Found an injector connector that had a wire pulled out of it causing a misfire. My fuel pump isnt up to the task of handling the V8 so I have an external one on the way. I did get the transfer case shifter modified and adjusted so I have 4wd back and working. Still have clutch hydraulic issues but not enough to stop me from being able to drive it. Guess I gotta invest $175 in the near future and get a new setup and be done with it.
So far the stock 4 banger radiator is handling the heat like a champ. The taurus cooling fan on low seems to be able to keep up with the cooling duties at hand however I still want to wire in a switch to be able to turn it on high should the need arise.
I removed the stock airbox mount today as I decided im just going to keep the carb-top style of air cleaner I picked up a while ago, seems to flow well and isnt too noisy and is high up enough to not have to worry about flooding the motor before I have to swim myself lol.
AX-15 seems up to handling the power, havent heard so much as a whimper out of it so I think I will be fine as long as I dont get tires spinning and catching it should be good, same with the D35. I think if I just drive it right they will hold up for quite some time.

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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 06-22-2010, 01:06 AM   #77
czjeeper
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Location: Washougal, WA
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I'm itching to do this.
I'm still waiting to find out if I can in WA state....
I'm looking forward to your wiring writeup!
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Unread 06-22-2010, 10:01 AM   #78
samsonitesamson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czjeeper View Post
I'm itching to do this.
I'm still waiting to find out if I can in WA state....
I'm looking forward to your wiring writeup!
You can. However if you are in an area that does emissions testing, you have alot more to consider.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bnabb View Post
it bolted right up, except one bolt but i didn't need it anyway
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Unread 06-22-2010, 10:15 AM   #79
czjeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samsonitesamson View Post
You can. However if you are in an area that does emissions testing, you have alot more to consider.
Such as?
Any info you have would be great!
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Click here for 2.5L AX5 to AX15 swap
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Unread 06-22-2010, 02:02 PM   #80
MoparFreak69
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Swaps are usually kosher as long as you go the same year donor motor or newer. As long as you go multiport fuel injection (like what you currently have) I would think pretty much any motor will pass the sniffer test just fine, probably even better than your 92 motor will because standards have increased. The biggest thing is to make sure you swap in a complete system (engine/PCM/Exhaust components) to make sure it is running as cleanly as possible to give you the best chance.
An idea to try is take a similar vehicle to a smog station (think used car dealer test drive) and ask them if they would do a sniff test for you. Just explain to them that you are thinking about doing a swap and you want to use a vehicle like the one you are driving as a donor. You want to be sure that the donor vehicle will pass the emissions requirement that are in place for your Jeep. Basically ask them to enter your Jeeps info (year/make/model, NOT VIN) and perform the test as if it were the Jeep. They might get a bit uppity about you asking them to do this so be prepared to kiss a little bit of tooshy to smooth them over. Realize that the test will not be valid for your registration requirements and that they should immediately shred the paperwork the station prints out so that there is no paper record that you might use erroniously. It might even help to call ahead and speak with a manager and explain what you are doing ahead of time to give them a heads up. They might even be able to tell you other options/rules that would apply to you.
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 07-02-2010, 01:07 PM   #81
czjeeper
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From what I've discovered anything other than a 2.5 is "tampering", but in WA they don't do anything other than a sniffer test. The 5.2 MPFI will pass no problem.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 04:39 PM   #82
mylilyj
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In illinois obd1 is excempt from emission testing. OBD2 is different story
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Unread 07-06-2010, 09:19 PM   #83
MoparFreak69
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Wiring writeup coming TOMORROW. I made a diagram and am typing up the description in word so if I have another internet explorer issue it isnt all deleted again! Keep in mind, this is for OBDII which is 96 and up. If you are trying to swap in OBDI the wire colors may or may not be the same. Its up to you to double check your wiring diagrams first!!!
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 07-12-2010, 03:29 PM   #84
hesserdude07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoparFreak69 View Post
Wiring writeup coming TOMORROW. I made a diagram and am typing up the description in word so
Any luck with getting us that wiring yet?
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Unread 07-12-2010, 05:45 PM   #85
MoparFreak69
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Location: Boise, Idaho
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CRAP! Sorry guys, I completely forgot about you! Here is the wiring diagram I drew up, I am posting it large so hopefully you can read the colors and components:


Here is the quick n dirty of how I wired things up;
Jeep bulkhead wires:
4 Red and Red/white stripe wires - These are constant 12V into the fuse block. I wired each of them through a fuse (30 amp each) in my fuse block

Yellow - This is switched 12V out from the Key switch. I used this wire to power all my relays (pin 86 - through its own 20 amp fuse). This wire also connects to the Light Green/Black stripe wire on the PCM.

Orange - This is the power out from the fuel pump relay (pin 87) to the fuel pump. I wired the Brown/White stripe wire (negative PCM output) to the other side of the fuel pump relay (Pin 85). The constant power into the relay (Pin 30) comes from its own fuse in the fuse box as well.

Light Green - Oil pressure sender output to gauge, I shortened this wire as it was in a spot closer to the firewall than on the 4 banger.

Purple - Coolant temp sensor for the gauge, I had to extend this wire to reach the front of the block on my V8.

Dark Green - This is the start solenoid wire. I wired it directly to my starter solenoid as I did not want to use any kind of starter interrupt (having clutch depressed, etc) in my system. If you want to install a clutch switch that has to be depressed in order to start just wire the Dark Green wire to one side of the relay solenoid (Pin 86) and to the relay input pin (Pin 30). Connect a ground to one side of the clutch switch and the other to Pin 85 of the relay. Connect Pin 87 to the starter motor. Voila, will only start with the clutch depressed (pushed in for you laymen )

The Green/White stripe wire is the tach signal input to the gauge. I connected that directly to the Gray/Light Blue striped wire from the PCM. Note that the PCM outputs a DIGITAL signal and the pre 91 YJs have an ANALOG tach so they are not compatible and your gauge will look like mine, limp. To cure this I aquired a tach out of a later YJ, I already had a guage pod with a speedo from a later YJ so I will wire those in place of my existing gauges (I want an electronic speedo anyway). If you are wiring an electronic speedo you will need to tap into the White/Orange striped wire and connect it to the existing speed sense wire (sorry, color unknown as I have a speedo cable).

My Jeep did not have a CHECK ENGINE light (or MIL). I will wire one in with the new guage pod and it will be wired like this; The light in the gauge gets a switched power source. The output from the PCM is a ground so the Black/Pink stripe wire will be connected to the other side of the lamp.

For the PCM there wasnt much extra to wire up. I left all of the sensors alone, with the exception of not using the black wire from the VSS (using a 2 wire instead of 3 wire). So basically for the VSS I am just using the Orange and the White/Orange Stripe wire to signal the computer that movement is occuring.

There are several Black, Black/Brown stripe and a couple Black/Tan stripe wires spread across the harness. A couple of those ended in an eye terminal that bolted to the back of the head. All of these wires need to be grounded however you choose to do so. The 4 that came out of one of the PCM connector I simply connected together in an eye terminal and used one of the PCM mount bolts as its ground. The ones behind the engine simply got bolted to an open bolt hole in the head.

The only thing left to cover is the Auto Shut Down (ASD) relay which powers all the sensors. There are 2 wires from the PCM to this relay. Thoughout the harness you will see Dark Green/Orange stripe wires. This is the power to all the sensors. Find one and tap into it. This tap will connect to the output of the ASD relay (Pin 87). The Dark Blue/Yellow striped wire is the PCM ASD output that connects to pin 85 of the ASD relay (keep in mind pin 86 is powered by my keyed power source through the fuse box). The fuse input (Pin 30) is powered through its own fuse in the fuse box.

Ask any questions if I managed to confuse anyone. Once you understand what is happening, its really easy to wire and put together.
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 07-16-2010, 04:52 AM   #86
mylilyj
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: chicago
Posts: 75
My swap is coming together as well. Have to wait for jb super short sye amd stretching 2inch in the rear to accomodate the 46rh trans. 10inch od unit is a killer. I am also waiting for a mopar performance pcm to bypass securtiy system on the zj donor pcm. figured extra hundo was worth it when you throw in a little bit extra performance. I too am going to be using the taurus fan want to be able to change speed and turn off for mud and water crossing. For now I have 2 specifis requests.
-
1. Pictures of how you routed the lower cooling hose. My friends have a couple good ideas but I would like to see how yours is run.
-
2. I too think the older style air cleaner should serve my purpose till I can afford to think up a cold air style but that prob wont happen till I can afford headers and fast flowing exhaust. Where did you find that one and do you happen to have a part number.
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Unread 07-17-2010, 10:17 AM   #87
MoparFreak69
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 1,278
Here is a pic of my lower radiator hose as seen from the passenger side of the motor:


As for the air filter I just went to Auto Zone and got one of their Spectre universal jobbers. You can use one designed for a carb because they both have the same size throat up top. I dont have the box anymore so I cant tell you part number. They have several sizes for you to choose from as well, I went with the cheapest one they had because it was only supposed to be a temp thing (we all know how that goes).
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 07-17-2010, 10:25 AM   #88
stoveguy01
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Bonney Lake, washington
Posts: 193
I used a conversion radiator I got off ebay for mine. It was intended for a chevy eng but nipples are in right locations for the 5.2. the stock GC hoses worked just had to shorten them NO SPLICING. its all aluminum larger than the stock cools awesome and best part only cost 190 to my door brand new.
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Unread 07-26-2010, 12:19 PM   #89
bmgadg
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 457
I'm putting mine together now, how did you run the positive batt wire to the starter since it's located on the driver's side? Don't want to have it sitting too close to the block and getting too hot.
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Unread 07-26-2010, 06:19 PM   #90
MoparFreak69
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 1,278
I snagged the battery and starter solenoid wires from a Van. They were both wrapped together and were quite long, actually long enough that I had to trim them a bit. I just ran it across the bellhousing with the rest of the wiring. 1000 miles so far and havent had one problem with it. The insulation is rated for 600 degrees F while the hottest the engine compartment should get (except for the exhaust components) is 250ish. I wouldnt be concerned about it melting to a head or block. As long as you keep it away from exhaust you will be fine.
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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