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BLACK FRIDAY SPECIALS!! You asked, we deliver!Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!XJ Rail Sale!

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Unread 05-30-2010, 07:10 PM   #31
MoparFreak69
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 1,278
Well, part one of the swap is done. Engine/trans/transfer case has been removed. Took about 3 hours to do which I didnt think was too bad. Dropped it on the floor and lifted the Jeep off it with the lift (figured it would be easier to do it that way and it was quite easy). Everything came apart like it wanted to part ways with the Jeep.
Picked up a radiator out of a Grand Wagoneer, that was a no-go, too tall causing interference with the steering box. Looks like I will just run the one that was in the Jeep with the 2 speed Taurus fan and keep my eyes glued to the temp gauge. Next week I will begin thinning out the wiring/crap out of the engine compartment of the Jeep and get it ready for the new engine to go in its place.
I gotta do some rethinking on my previous exhaust plans as the starter and the drivers side tube coming from the manifold want to share domain, and that aint kosher. I have an old LA style manifold that kicks out away from the block and looks like it will clear just fine, just gotta get the tubing to fit up.

Here are a few pics from today's progress:
How she looked when I drove it in:

Going down, Dont let anybody tell you that you cannot drop the 4 banger out from under a Jeep.

Going down, or should I say Jeep going up?!

As she sits now:


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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 06-01-2010, 10:51 PM   #32
MoparFreak69
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Location: Boise, Idaho
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Little bit more progress. Spent about 2 hours at the junk yard getting everything I need for a serpentine belt setup instead of running the crappy vee belts. I picked everything up (brackets, alternator, power steering pump, idler pulleys, tensioner, timing cover, harmonic balancer and crank pulley) for $70! A new water pump is only $45 so I decided to just go with new on that, save me the hassles of changing it later if it goes bad.
Here are a few pics of the engine as it sits, almost ready to go in. I was just checking fitment of brackets and stuff so that I can clean them up tomorrow and install them for good.

Front of the bastard child sans timing cover and water pump:


Back of the setup with the AX-15 and 231 t-case mounted up and checked for fitment. Still need to make a CPS bracket and replace the flywheel ring gear when it gets in and shes buttoned up back here:
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 06-01-2010, 11:13 PM   #33
Jeeper_YJ
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Nice pics!!!!!
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'97 Cherokee, 99+ intake, 62mm TB, 703 injectors (new), k&n intake, Hypertech III, 180* stat (1/8" drilled hole), 2.5" manifold 2 tail pipe (Hooker Maxflow & hi flow cat), Perf header, 4.5" zone lift, 32" GY Dura Trac, Rear head rests. Comp cam "231" & Perf head (LS1 BIG valves 2.02/1.62). 3 row alum radiator.
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Unread 06-01-2010, 11:16 PM   #34
MoparFreak69
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Ok so here is a little summary of what I have gathered so far in case others are looking to do a similar swap:

The short block is an LA 318 I had laying around. I knew it ran good and after checking all wear parts determined it will fit my needs quite nicely. New timing chain is all it needed.
The heads and intake manifold are Magnum off a 96 Ram. To run the Magnum heads on an LA engine you need to get a specific set of pushrods designed by Mopar Performance for the swap, as well as hydraulic lifters with oiling holes in the middle. If you are running a Magnum engine to start with this wont apply to you, I was just being cheap .
The accessory brackets and accessories will all be stock Magnum serpentine belt setup, once again if you are using a donor Magnum engine you already have all this stuff.
Distributor/EFI wiring and sensors are from an OBDII MPI setup (mine came from various rigs), but I believe everything is the same except needing 2 O2 sensors instead of just one on OBDI setups and the controllers having 3 plugs instead of 1 large one.
Bellhousing came from a 93 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 V-6.
Flywheel and clutch: came from the same Dakota. The tone ring had to be modified to have 8 'windows' instead of the 6 from the 6 cylinder. A bit of welding and grinding is all that took. NOTE TO ANYBODY LOOKING TO DO SOMETHING SIMILAR: The 5.2 and 5.9 flywheels are NOT interchangable. The 5.2 is internally balanced (the counterweights do all the balancing) while the 5.9 is EXTERNALLY balanced (meaning there is not enough room for all the counterweight it needs so the flywheel makes up for that in its balance). If you choose to go with a manual transmission my suggestion is this: Get a 5.2 flywheel and get the pressure plate and disc from the V-6. Have the flywheel drilled for the pressure plate and be done with it. Shouldnt cost much and will be less headache as far as getting tone ring marks in the right spot.
If you are putting a manual behind an engine that came with an automatic you will need a special adapter for the pilot bearing. The part number for the pilot bearing you need is P4876056. It is only like $10 and will save you a ton of headache. Order it from your local stealership. I had something similar machined because I didnt want to wait, cost me $40. Install it so that it is just slightly under flush with the nose of the flywheel, the input shaft of the AX-15 is not super long so dont seat it all the way into the flywheel. If you are concerned about it moving, coat the outside in green loctite before you install it, it will probably never come out again without tons of heat.
The trans is just a regular ol Ax-15, mine just happens to be out of a Dakota. Be aware of the t-case bolt pattern in the mount flange. The Wrangler is the only one that clocks the t-case up higher for more belly clearance. If you are going to run a Cherokee/Dakota/Etc/Not Wrangler AX-15 in your YJ you may need to drill new holes higher in the flange to give you the clearance you need (do a search on here and you will find all the info on that you need).
The tcase is a Jeep 231 with the Dakota 23 spline input shaft installed into it. The input shaft is the same for all 23 spline t-cases, Mine once again just happened to be from a Dakota.
The shifter I pulled out of the AX-5 and stuck into the 15. My last trans swap in a Wrangler (used a Cherokee AX-15 and shifter) yielded me a funny shifter throw range and position. Keep your AX-5 shifter and you will be golden.
I am keeping the stock D30/35 combo for the time being with the slip yoke rear driveline. Front driveline will also stay the same. Keeping my 4:10 gears from the 4 cylinder, should give me nice power and decent wheeling range with the torquey V8.
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 06-02-2010, 11:32 AM   #35
mike_breaker_5
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ok following due to the awesome info in that summary post. i was super concerned about my swap (1993 zj 5.2 into my 94 yj) as far as motor fitment to the ax-15 trans. awesome job so far and your research is more appreciated than you may think keep it up.
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it's not much to look at... but it's mine.
5.2lswap, metalcloaks, bedliner, tucked belly, d60's, soon to be nv4500 and d300.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...r-junk-990191/
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Unread 06-02-2010, 02:25 PM   #36
Jeeper_YJ
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I am following the 5.2l and the auto trans or the AX15. Anyone in California done this? Just curious.
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'97 Cherokee, 99+ intake, 62mm TB, 703 injectors (new), k&n intake, Hypertech III, 180* stat (1/8" drilled hole), 2.5" manifold 2 tail pipe (Hooker Maxflow & hi flow cat), Perf header, 4.5" zone lift, 32" GY Dura Trac, Rear head rests. Comp cam "231" & Perf head (LS1 BIG valves 2.02/1.62). 3 row alum radiator.
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Unread 06-02-2010, 05:01 PM   #37
hesserdude07
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cant wait to see this finished! Im waiting for the wiring info to start mine. Im keeping the auto tranny with my 5.2.... Keep up the good work!!
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Unread 06-03-2010, 06:54 PM   #38
MoparFreak69
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Couple of updates:
First things first;
It fits like it was made to take a 318:

Need to weld my motor mounts to the frame, its just sitting on them right now because I ran out of time today but this picture shows the mounts pretty good. Engine is offset 1/2" to the passenger side for clearance which is well within normal tolerances:


Flywheel ring gear should get in tomorrow so I can get that put on the flywheel and all thats left to do on the engine is clearance the power steering pump bracket slightly (almost contacts the steering shaft), make a bracket for the CPS once the flywheel is in and install an output shaft seal on the T-case.
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 06-03-2010, 07:01 PM   #39
MoparFreak69
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Second update, some of the promised wiring information:
This installment: Jeep side wiring.

I removed all the crappy TBI wiring and that left me with only about a dozen wires to screw with. Here are my wire colors and their functions (You colors may vary but I believe they didnt change them):
Orange: Powers fuel pump, Will be output from fuel pump relay controlled by PCM
Dark Green w/White stripe: Tach input, will be connected to tach output from PCM
Yellow: 12V switched power, powered with key on and in start for PCM function
Dark Green: Starter relay wire, Will be connected to a starter relay just to keep any load off the vehicle wiring
Light Green: Oil pressure from sender to gauge, I am using the Jeep senders so I will just modify wire length as needed
Purple: Coolant temp from sender to gauge, same as oil pressure using stock sender
Orange w/White Stripe: Blower motor fan, newer Jeeps are wired inside the Jeep for this I believe
Black w/Yellow stripe: 4WD indicator light, will just connect it back to the switch as I am retaining the CAD for now.

There are 4 wires going to the reverse light switch and a neutral safety switch (for auto only) that go into a connector. I removed the neutral safety switch wires (cannot recall colors) because I do not need them. It is a 4 pin square connector that is pretty hard to miss. As long as you dont screw with those wires you will be fine.
There was a green wire that dead ended into a plug that apparently did nothing. I couldnt find the other side of that wire in my Jeep so I clipped and capped it with heat shrink.
Not too bad though, I am using all but 2 of the Jeeps wiring.


Hope this installment helps somebody. Hoping by the end of the weekend to have the FI wiring set and in stone so I can give some info on that part as well.
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 06-03-2010, 07:47 PM   #40
liveanadventure
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one quick point yj rearends are ofset approx 1.5 inches to the passenger side so for good alingment go another inch to the passenger
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Unread 06-03-2010, 08:24 PM   #41
MoparFreak69
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Location: Boise, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liveanadventure View Post
one quick point yj rearends are ofset approx 1.5 inches to the passenger side so for good alingment go another inch to the passenger
My half inch offset is only in the motor mounts. The trans mount is using stock location which accounts for the differential offset and takes care of that for me. Good point to bring up though in case others are considering the swap and are using a transmission not originally available in a YJ (GM trans, Ford Trans, etc).
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 06-04-2010, 07:12 AM   #42
mike_breaker_5
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mopar freak...
i have been doing a little looking around for flywheels. there is a 143 tooth and a 130 tooth fot the 5.2 would you happen to know which one, if either, will fit inside the ax-15 bell and still allow proper syncro of the starter to the teeth? i have a junkyard list ready thanks to your awesome list above.

... did you have any troubles adapting the jeep master cylinder to the dakota slave?

... what kind of clearance is there around the tunnel? i want to mount a flush skid for the underbelly and want to know how much motor mount lift i can get away with with 1" body lift.

... oh and one more thing, outstanding writeup. i wouldn't be so comfortable doing mine if i hadn't read yours.
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it's not much to look at... but it's mine.
5.2lswap, metalcloaks, bedliner, tucked belly, d60's, soon to be nv4500 and d300.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...r-junk-990191/
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Unread 06-04-2010, 07:45 AM   #43
MoparFreak69
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Mike....
Go with the 130 tooth. That is the one I have and it seems to just fit inside the bellhousing. I believe that only a very few amount of 5.2s were 143 teeth, not sure why they went with that because they have been 130 teeth forever + a day.

I havent gotten over the hurdle for the slave cylinder as of yet. If I wasnt so cheap I would just get a later YJ clutch setup and just call it a day, but I think I will go to a local hose supply house and see if they can let me go from my flared metal tube to the pin retained plastic tube. If all else fails I can go with a compression fitting from tube to tube until I can afford to go with new clutch stuff.

If you get a stock AX-15 transmission mount (or you can use the AX-5 mount and just drill the holes out a bit wider to fit the trans) then you can just mount it right where it would have always been behind a 4.0.
As far as tunnel clearance, same as you would have with a 4.0. I have plenty of clearance so I could have gone a couple inches higher (3+/-) with my motor mount, but I chose where I am at right now because it just happened to look good to me. The 318 isnt as tall as the 2.5 so you can pretty much just pick your spot and build mounts for it. Right now my mounts sit with the top edge flush with the top of the frame, made it easy to make mounts like that and I had clearance everywhere.

I am using a front sump (70's car) oil pan and I have about 9" clearance between it and the axle. I have about 6" between the axle and bumpstops so I think 3" is definately enough wiggle room there. If you go Magnum I believe they are all rear sump but either way, no tight fit at all in that department.

The only thing you may be tight on is exhaust. I am using a truck manifold on the passenger side and right now it is a bit close to the pinch weld between the firewall and tunnel. If you go higher you may need to go with a different manifold of find some headers (what I will do eventually), or just beat the pinch weld up a bit and make your own clearance.
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 06-04-2010, 02:24 PM   #44
schizm99
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Subscribed and thanks!
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Unread 06-04-2010, 10:39 PM   #45
MoparFreak69
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Another update:

Figured the clutch out. I basically just cut off the nipple at the end of the slave cylinder where the plastic tubing goes into and is retained by a roll pin. I then drilled out the end of the cylinder with a 5/16th drill. The plastic there is almost 1/4" thick which is plenty for the low pressure the clutch operates at. I tapped it with an 1/8NTP tap and picked up a fitting that went from 1/8 pipe male to 1/4 inverted flare male. Cost: $1 !!!. The only real problem I have with the setup is getting all the air out. Recall the internal slave cylinders have a bleed valve on them, the externals do not. The master cylinders for the internal slave cylinders have the outlet port on top of the master with a loop that goes up, the external slaves have the output on the bottom so they automatically bleed. Tons of frantic pedal pressing got the majority of the air out, but im sure there are still bubbles in the slave that I need to get out. Tomorrow I will unbolt the slave and let it hang down and see if I can get them to work out.

Got the motor mounts all welded up and painted, Trans mount took just a little bit of hole enlargement to get it to bolt up to the transmission. Because I have a Dakota transmission I had to redrill the t-case mounting holes 10 degrees up so that I can clear the belly pan. As it sits right now the engine/trans/tcase are bolted into the Jeep and are there to stay. I am soooooooooooooooooooo good that the rear driveline sits in exactly the same place as it did with the old transmission, all the clean part of the slip yoke is inside, with the line where it sat at the seal sitting right where it was, right at the seal. Yeah yeah, I am breaking my arm patting myself on the back, so what, let me gloat!!! lol.
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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