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Unread 01-10-2012, 04:07 PM   #31
Yarz
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Gibsonia, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
I am running the 95 booster and the Mercury Marquis master. Yes it is possible.
I run disk brakes front and rear.
X2.. It is definitely do-able

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1990 White YJ TBI350, SM465, NP231, SOA, RE 1.5" SOA springs, Ford 8.8, D30, 4.10's, JBConversions SYE, XJ shaft, Bilstein 5150s, jb4x4 steering, MORE SS brakelines, 35x12.50 15 MT's, '95 YJ Brake Booster, '78 Grand Marquis MC, ZJ Prop. Valve
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Unread 01-10-2012, 04:23 PM   #32
BLAZZIN
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I run the E-350 master cylinder on my 95 YJ with a J-10 Dana 44 front and a Ford 9 rear. I have no issues locking up my 36" Iroks, and my booster is from the 4 cylinder that was previously in my YJ.
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Unread 01-11-2012, 09:30 PM   #33
mazyj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
I am running the 95 booster and the Mercury Marquis master. Yes it is possible.
I run disk brakes front and rear. Stock Waggy in front and stock YJ rotor with Chevy Motycarlo calipers in the rear. I can lock up my 36 inch Iroks no problem.
This is my write up.
http://www.mijc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2821&sid=998a6c8c3e2bc8966e13a a0161d1f214
I was speaking in a more bolt together sense, but either way I stand corrected.
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Unread 01-12-2012, 01:15 AM   #34
DLWRUBI
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
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No one recomending the Vanco big brake setup? From what I read, the weak link really seems to be the front calipers/rotors. The single piston caliper seems put all the pressure right in the middle of the pad not utilizing all the rotor to pad surface area. Adding more pressure through a booster/master setup may help you stop better but it's still a band aid IMO for the real issue. The stock master has enough pressure to already flex the knuckle. I would maybe at least talk to mrblain or Van about some options. If you do go for the master option I would also look at the centric rotors and black magic pads to go with it...
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Unread 01-12-2012, 04:03 AM   #35
timatoe
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLWRUBI View Post
No one recomending the Vanco big brake setup? From what I read, the weak link really seems to be the front calipers/rotors. The single piston caliper seems put all the pressure right in the middle of the pad not utilizing all the rotor to pad surface area. Adding more pressure through a booster/master setup may help you stop better but it's still a band aid IMO for the real issue. The stock master has enough pressure to already flex the knuckle. I would maybe at least talk to mrblain or Van about some options. If you do go for the master option I would also look at the centric rotors and black magic pads to go with it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karma View Post
HI,
Kudos to you for being so responsible. Good brakes are a must and many modified Jeeps have horrible brakes. I don't care if they kill themselves but please, not other people. You know who you are.

I had the same problem and decided to go the hydroboost route. My brakes now work great with good sensitivity and stopping power. I have had zero problems in four years. I would say they are about as good as the original stock brakes, a huge improvement over where my brakes were before being modified.

Here is the site for the system I used:

http://www.vancopbs.com/category_s/66.htm
Give them a call. Vanco is very easy to work with.

Sparky
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Unread 03-12-2012, 05:13 PM   #36
ThreeHeadedYJ
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okay im going to try and revive a dead thread here.. So i ended up buying the ebay unit and until recently it has been just sitting inside my living room. Last week i started the tear down and putting everything on. NOW here comes the point where i am completely stuck and not sure where to go from here...
The new system full with fluid, all lines connected, everything good to go, even bled the brakes multiple times.
but i have ABSOLUTELY NO PEDDLE PLAY.
the peddle all the way up moves at most 1/4" down at MOST!!
this is the first major brake job i have done and not sure what is wrong
With the lines that run through the jeep disconnected i have good peddle play just in the new vacuum booster and master. but when i connect the lines the peddle gets so stiff that it feels like the peddle would just break off before the jeep ever stopped...
WHAT is WRONG???!!
I am out of ideas
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Unread 03-13-2012, 05:18 PM   #37
Yarz
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Have you adjusted the screw between the booster and MC?

Oh, and is this with the jeep running or off? The pedal will get softer as the vacuum builds up when the jeep is running
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"Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

1990 White YJ TBI350, SM465, NP231, SOA, RE 1.5" SOA springs, Ford 8.8, D30, 4.10's, JBConversions SYE, XJ shaft, Bilstein 5150s, jb4x4 steering, MORE SS brakelines, 35x12.50 15 MT's, '95 YJ Brake Booster, '78 Grand Marquis MC, ZJ Prop. Valve
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Unread 03-22-2012, 01:36 PM   #38
ThreeHeadedYJ
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This is with the jeep running and with it off.
I adjusted the screw and it is all the way down still same problem
talked to mbm today and they said that it could possibly be the proportioning valve that is not working right
what i dont get though is that it was working before i put everything on, why would it now stop?
Going to put the stock booster back on today
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Full Metalcloak. Poison Spyder Trailgate & Rear Bumper. Custom Front Bumper. 3.5" Black Diamond. 35" Mtz. KC lights. Delta Headlights. Corbeau. Supper 44 Flowmaster Diamond plate. Savvy Tail lights. Superbrightleds.com. 8.8. 95 Booster w/ 1-1/8" MC
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Unread 11-03-2013, 09:40 AM   #39
ThreeHeadedYJ
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Reviving an old thread here. I have been running the stock set up until now; when i finally found a decent priced 95 yj dual diaphragm booster. I am now matching that up with the M/C from the previous attempt. Here are some pics of the difference in size. Ill repost more later with details.

image-3297010410.jpg
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Full Metalcloak. Poison Spyder Trailgate & Rear Bumper. Custom Front Bumper. 3.5" Black Diamond. 35" Mtz. KC lights. Delta Headlights. Corbeau. Supper 44 Flowmaster Diamond plate. Savvy Tail lights. Superbrightleds.com. 8.8. 95 Booster w/ 1-1/8" MC
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Unread 11-09-2013, 01:53 PM   #40
ThreeHeadedYJ
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Okay, it all bolted up good. Had just enough room to squeeze in the new set up with my cold air.
When I first took it out the brakes had no urgency to them at all, stopping worse than before.
So I separated the MC from the Booster and screwed out the pin inside the booster to make it about 1/4 inch longer; allowing for the pin to just rest on the inside of the MC but not engaging the plunger. (see link for a write up)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...ade-yj-tj.html
Made myself a gasket for a good seal, and bolted it up and tried driving it again.
The brakes felt real good this time only there was a high pitched whistling sound coming from the connection of the booster and MC.
Discovered a "leak hole" that was purposely designed into the MC, Sealed the hole shut with some JB Weld and waited over night. (see link for write up)
http://www.bsfab.net/?p=58
Today I test drove it for a minute and am real happy with the results, the Jeep stops way better than before and I could even lock up the wheels if I needed to.
Will update if any issues arrive, aside from peeling my face away from the windshield.
In a couple weeks or so I think I am going to try the trick of removing the O-ring from the proportioning valve, opening it up for better fluid distribution (or so I am finding online)
Until then, here are some pictures (not mine) of some of the things mentioned above.
boosterpin.jpg

mcleakhole.2jpg.jpg

mcleakhole.jpg

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Its hip to be square
Full Metalcloak. Poison Spyder Trailgate & Rear Bumper. Custom Front Bumper. 3.5" Black Diamond. 35" Mtz. KC lights. Delta Headlights. Corbeau. Supper 44 Flowmaster Diamond plate. Savvy Tail lights. Superbrightleds.com. 8.8. 95 Booster w/ 1-1/8" MC
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