I'll have to get pics later when I get home but the rear tabs are shorter and higher than the factory location on the old d35 . But my shock now rests about midway through its travel from collapsed to fully extended . I read something about you want to be about 40/60 . Seem legit ? How much uptravel do you actually need for street highway driving? 3-4 inches ? My springs are 1.5" over factory so do I take a string from eye to eye and measure the height from center point to top of spring above the axle ? Add an inch maybe 1.5" for compensating for inverting the spring and that will determine my uptravel ?
Front - factory locations upper/lower
Rear - Factory upper/ lower .5" below axle tube on the 8.8.
How much down travel will these spring provide ? I have 5" shackles BTW
Pretty sure people are going to post that you'll need to max out droop and compression. You'll just have to get creative. I use 2x6's under the jack stands that are screwed together to get enough height. Others might have better ideas. I would just find a ramp loading dock or a big pile of earth or a big rock to get compression.
SOAs are a waste if the stock shock mounting is retained. If you want to cover the range of potential flex you need to build custom mounts. Do a droop test with the tires off. I use sandbags to simulate the weight of the tires.
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I pulled up till the left rear started to lose grip , took measurements ... at this point shocks are still attached
Front right @ 22" - collapsed 4" with 3" to spare
Front left @30" - extended 4" with 2" to spare
Rear right @23" - extended 2" with 3" to spare
Rear left @19.25 - collapsed 2" with 3" to spare
rear lower shock mounts
What do you guys think ? Am I ok ?
Seems I can get more from the front and alot more from the rear but it doesnt seem that the shocks are limiting me .
Would It make a huge difference if I made the eyes perpendicular (top to bottom)in the rear ?
When I did my SOA I moved the shock mounts on the axle so the mounting hole was 6 inches higher and I could still use my not so factory shocks for the time. I still want to do a drop test but have not got around to it but I have never maxed out my shocks either way. The springs seem to stop it before the shock does.
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No flamin just shootin you straight. The 5th link is fine. If it were me id discconect shocks and link and put it on jackstands. id pull the tires and let it droop. I would then see if everything can connect back up. Keep in mind a dynamic test would allow it to droop a bit more. If they can then you have other things holding your droop back. Just from experience there is no way the factory mounts can accommodate the droop potential of a SOA if all other elements are working towards maximum flex. Ebrake line is a major one. Looks like you could use longer break lines as well. Lots of folks move the axle shock mount up higher in the rear. This doesn't work unless you deal with the upper mount. Both the front and rear lower mounts should be turned 90* so the bolt mounts perpendicular to the axle housing. Unless you want to do some major work the only real way to deal with the lack of space for shocks in the rear is to mount them like this /\ with a bar that goes from framerail to framerail. lots of people use the shock extenders but they just dont add enough length for SOA setups. Getting full capabilities of the springs as in maximizing flex takes quite a bit of work and hardly ever accomplished in the first take. Get under there and see what's holding things back.
You need to deal with the steering. Im not a histeer/crossover steering nazi especially with aggressively build jeeps getting lower and lower but the stock units will fail quickly if you are using your SOA. The problem arises when you go to increase the size of the draglink and tierod to match your needs and it no longer fits underneath.
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Lots of good info Fratis, thanks. I will definitely put her up and see how things are acting . I was planning on reworkng the break lines to get more slack , almost tight but they do have some play. My next issue to address IS going to be the steering . I haven't really wheeled because I'm afraid of blowing the ball joints . EVENTUALLY I will go with bigger axles but not until everything else is done ,Er "reworked" . What do you think is the best steering upgrade(besides tossing it ) for the d30? WJ knuckles?
Two things to what fratis mentioned... I moved my rear lower shock mounts above the bottom of the rear axle. To accommodate this I added the bar frame to frame for the upper mounts and angled my shocks inward like /\. When I did that and got the angle I needed there was some interference with the tail pipe. For now I removed the tailpipe altogether and put a turndown after the muffler but not happy with that setup. I'll have to reroute my exhaust in the near future.
Also, in the picture of your tie rod and drag link, you'll notice how close your drag link is to your spring. At full droop, or close to it you'll lose some turning radius turning the wheel to the right, I believe. My drag link would make contact with the spring in that situation. That's another reason to change your steering setup. I did eventually but it wasn't for that reason. Just keep that in mind when your twisting it up. If you do what fratis said and jack it up and remove the wheels take the steering from lock to lock and you'll see what I'm saying.
Agreed with above. I tilted my shocks in and moved my lower mounts out. I am still sua but my rear shocks were an issue. I built my own upper rear bar with custom mounts to still let the shocks move forward to back and side to side. I can get some pics of it for you if that would help. Like I said I am sua but my upper mount design would work for either. With the upper bar my tailpipe would not work either so I did a turn down as well. Works fine for me.
My build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/95-yam-project-1527472/?highlight=