Universal Joint Q's for the D30 - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-10-2004, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
CanukYJ
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Universal Joint Q's for the D30

K guys I was sure of all my stuff before the stealer sent me awry...

I have a 'breaking' front dana30 axle ujoint on the drivers side. No biggie, pull the axle, press the joint out and in, easy stuff and all the bolts are loose from the locker install so it's all good. BUT I was calling around town and almost no one knew just what ujoint my jeep had, so I was going to the stealer to get some bushings for my door hinges (10$ each!!! argh!) anyways so I thought I'd get a nice new spicer one while there.

That's when the trouble started. The guy asked me if mine was ABS, I said NO, definitely not, I have had this conversation a millions times before and my axle is NOT an abs one and I know there were abs cross breed years. Well he tells me that's what everyone thinks and then they find out it had abs setup but never used. Now I've taken that whole axle apart and saw nothing that appeared to be an abs component (I know the computers and stuff won't be there, I mean any mounting hardware or tone rings, etc). So he continues to tell me it most likely will have it and that the ABS ujoint from spicer is TWICE THE PRICE. (rofl figures huh). So now he has me second guessing myself. I have changed out the ujoint on the passengers side (don't remember what part #) and it was NOT 65$ for parts or anything close to that, nor was it anything special, because I don't even remember having this ABS nonABS arguement when I did the last one so I would assume I just bought a nonABS joint. Any input?

While I'm at it why it is some people tell you that the hub has to be removed? I thought that was only with the NON-SEALED units, my jeep has sealed hubs so they should stay ON when changing a ujoint, bad info sometimes gets handed around or maybe I'm the one with the mis-info, anyone who can confirm with me is appreciated, thanks in advance.


My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

1992 Red YJ. Lifted, locked, and loaded with beer (Disclaimer: This doesn't mean said driver endorses drinking and driving, please enjoy alcohol responsibly and do not operate any vehicle of any kind, thank you....)

Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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post #2 of 7 Old 06-10-2004, 10:31 AM
Devious
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It should just be the standard 260x u-joint.

Life is tough enough already, but it's even tougher when you're stupid
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post #3 of 7 Old 06-10-2004, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
CanukYJ
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Yea thatís what I figured, damned dealer making me 2nd guess myself, anyone else got any good info to throw in just to be sure?

My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

1992 Red YJ. Lifted, locked, and loaded with beer (Disclaimer: This doesn't mean said driver endorses drinking and driving, please enjoy alcohol responsibly and do not operate any vehicle of any kind, thank you....)

Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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post #4 of 7 Old 06-11-2004, 05:14 PM
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U-joint

Quote:
Originally Posted by CanukYJ
Yea thatís what I figured, damned dealer making me 2nd guess myself, anyone else got any good info to throw in just to be sure?
Yes, '92 should take a standard 260, unless a previous owner swapped in '95 shafts(not likely since you already changed the other side). And no, you don't have to press the shaft out of the hub/bearing assembly. You can, if you wish, but it's not necessary to change a u-joint. Also, if you 'wheel your Jeep, pick up another set of axle shafts with hubs for trail spares, makes for much faster repairs if you break a joint.
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-11-2004, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Hehe yeah I hear ya on the spares I actually have someone who will be giving me some since he is junking his d30, glad to hear I wasn't crazy for not pulling the hub off the shaft.

My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

1992 Red YJ. Lifted, locked, and loaded with beer (Disclaimer: This doesn't mean said driver endorses drinking and driving, please enjoy alcohol responsibly and do not operate any vehicle of any kind, thank you....)

Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-11-2004, 07:11 PM
pigpen95
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I have a 95 Wrangler without abs and my u joint is a 260x. I CANNOT remove my axle without removing the hubs, the joints will not fit through.
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post #7 of 7 Old 06-11-2004, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
CanukYJ
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Sorry guys, I may have worded this funny. What I was asking (I checked behind my wheel and I know I can do this now, tnx anyways) was not if I should remove the HUB from the AXLE HOUSING but rather if I had to remove the HUB from the INNER AXLE SHAFT once REMOVED from the housing, know what I mean? Tnx for the replies, I have enough room to not have to pull the hub from the inner when it's removed, I have heard rumors of people who could not press the joints out because the hub covered part of the joint and prevented getting a vice on it.

My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

1992 Red YJ. Lifted, locked, and loaded with beer (Disclaimer: This doesn't mean said driver endorses drinking and driving, please enjoy alcohol responsibly and do not operate any vehicle of any kind, thank you....)

Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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