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Unread 08-18-2012, 09:49 PM   #1
gunshw301
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Edit!!!! Read this before proceeding. I f-Ed up. Everything I did up until today (9-23) I did dry fitting (without the tank in place). Well tonight I tried putting the tank back in and It won't fit! The cross member in front of the tank will need some major trimming I am afraid. Will up date the solution to this problem, but till then be warned! I am truly sorry if you are following this before I made this discovery.

Update (1/21/13) All is good, cut the cross member and everything is working fine. Keep reading to see how it was done.



And on with the show.....

Got some vacation time coming up. Planning on installing my 8.8, but also want to tuck my gas tank skid while I am at it. Did a 1.25 inch body lift for the ucf belly up skid, so I know I can raise it at least 1.25 inches. Now I am second guessing myself and wondering if I can go higher. Anyone know how much clearance there is between the top of the tank to the body on a stock set up. Can I get away with 1.75 or 2 inches of tuck? Will post picks when I get started. Am planning to do this cheap (ucf skid set me back) so I will be using the stock skid.

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Unread 08-18-2012, 10:05 PM   #2
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I went with a gen right skid on the tank and raised it at least an inch and it can definitely be used as a skid now. I have no problems dropping it on a rock now.
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Unread 08-19-2012, 06:31 AM   #3
gunshw301
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So you gained an inch with a new skid, is that with stock body mounts? Defiantly plan to beef up the stock skid. Or, more realistic, once I tear it all down I will find I cant reuse the stock skid......then HAVE to get a new one!

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Unread 08-19-2012, 08:08 AM   #4
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Yeah that was pre body lift
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Unread 08-19-2012, 11:02 AM   #5
gunshw301
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Thanks anti. Will post up some pics when complete. Might be a few weeks though.

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Unread 08-28-2012, 04:10 PM   #6
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Well I finally started the tucking project, I also started putting in my 8.8, so I might not have the tank back in until I get the axle in place....the extra room is nice. I have some pics, but I forgot to keep taking them, so I will describe as best I can. Really, this is any easy job.

I started by dropping the tank of course. It was mostly full, so it was a bit more of a challenge.



After I got the tank removed from the skid, I found a mess of rust and mud. There is rot through on the front passenger side of the skid. I knew about it, but didn't think it was that bad.



I was thinking of cutting out two inches from the skid. After looking the jeep over I might have had clearance issues with the fill tube. So instead I went with 1.5 inches....and I happened to have some 1.5 inch painters tape laying around.

I measured roughly 3/4 of an inch down from the lip of each side of the skid. Then carefully laid my painters tape below this line. Then lightly painted over the tape. Once dry, remove the tape. This is now the material I was to remove.

I used a careful hand and a 4 inch angle grinder to remove the lower section of each side first. Then I took each small cut off and used a metal band saw to cut off the top line and section. If you are following along and plan to just use and angle grinder, you are probably better off cutting the top line first and then the bottom line.



You will end up with two small sections of angle, and a much shorter main skid piece.

Then I just used c-clamps to hold my work and added a bunch of spot welds to join the pieces back together. After I had both sides spot welded, I ran full welds down all four sides.



I had intentions of beefing up the stock skid. I changed my mind due to the amount of rust. It was so bad, as i was welding I was getting instant burn through. So I slapped some scrap over the major holes and added a small section of angle to the outside passenger side corner instead. I just didn't see the need to put a ton of effort into something that probably will need replacing in a couple years anyhow.

I did dry test the fit and it looks great. I will get it painted and get some final shots of it before to long.

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Unread 08-28-2012, 04:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunshw301 View Post
Thanks anti. Will post up some pics when complete. Might be a few weeks though.

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A few weeks, my foot!
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Unread 08-28-2012, 05:33 PM   #8
gunshw301
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Grief for being done early?

Then I won't show you this picture of the dry fit after paint just dried.



Before for comparison



A little deceiving because the springs have no weight on them yet and I painted the lower body portion black. Got to get the thing back together, the wife wants her spot back before issac comes to visit. Yeah for rain!

As it sits currently



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Unread 08-28-2012, 05:42 PM   #9
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That's dang pretty. for the hard work!!
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Unread 08-28-2012, 05:50 PM   #10
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It really wasn't to bad, maybe about 4 hours start to finish. The worst was the welding. The humidity was bad here even last evening, sweat built up in my helmet, when it drained out it looked like dip cup spit!

Thanks for your help with this, from your response I was confident I could go with an inch and a half.
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Unread 09-01-2012, 11:02 AM   #11
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So you tucked 1.5" with a 1.25" body lift? Could you have gone more?
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Unread 09-01-2012, 11:49 AM   #12
gunshw301
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With some body messaging, I think I could have done 2 inches easy, maybe 2.25. I am looking for another skid cheap to do 2 inches. My skid is not that great.

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Unread 09-01-2012, 02:17 PM   #13
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Is this a mod you can do with a stock skid and no welding tools?
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Unread 09-01-2012, 02:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Is this a mod you can do with a stock skid and no welding tools?
You might be able to just cut the mounting tabs off, and just make a new tab by folding the skid further down instead of cutting/welding. Then drill new holes and bolt it up.
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Unread 09-01-2012, 03:13 PM   #15
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I am glad to see this works, i figured you could modify the stock skid just like that. I figure the need for extra beef on the skid is even less now that you have it up there 1.5" higher.

Now that you have it done do you think you could have removed the extra 0.5"?
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