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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > Tub Removal

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Unread 01-07-2007, 12:37 PM   #1
leftlanetruckin
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Tub Removal Instructions

seen a few posts and been asked about taking the yj tub off, so instead of replying to individual posts, i'll post it here!
this is assuming that the jeep was running and driving. some steps can be skipped (removing the grill for example) but this is the way i have removed mine, twice last year......
also, i had a 5 speed, so i do not know the way to remove the gear shifter from an auto, if you even need to??
here goes.....
remove the hood, and support rods. disconnecting the wire for the under hood light.
remove the header tanks on the driver side inner fender for the rad overflow and washer fluid. take the hose off the rad and keep it with the header tank. unplug the 2 plugs that go down to the washer tank, and disconnect the hoses. you can normally tie the hoses together and keep from losing the fluid.mark the hoses! 1 is front and the other for a rear wash/wipe.
remove the fender/grill lights and unplug all light connections.
the wiring will end at the passenger side fender light. pull the wiring from that point, thru the square hole in the grill, and feed it all back around in front of the rad, up thru the driver side hole, and back to the bulkhead plug.
unplug the ecm and the big plug on the bulkhead that goes to the pdc and the lights. rest these plugs on the motor. unplug the connector that goes thru the firewall. the plug itself is under the dash. put it ontop of the motor
reach under the speedo, unplug the speedo cable if equiped. be carefull not to break the plastic, you need to push in on the 2 sides and it will come out.
remove the driver side fender. the bolts run down the edge of the fender to the tub, there are 4 i think, plus 2 support braces.
the bolts to the grill are inside the outer fender at the front.6 i think and a brace, all 1/2" heads.once all bolts are out, raise and remove the fender.
remove the battery, battery tray, and unclip the pdc and slide it forwards toward the motor. same bolts for the passenger side fender. after the bolts are out, lift and remove.
unclip all the wires that are secured to the bulkhead/firewall. unplug all sensors that are mounted there, labeling the plugs and wires. unscrew the ground wires.
check that all cables/wires are free of the firewall and bulkhead.
the grill has 1 big bolt at the bottom, in the center. unbolt that and lift off the grill/rad (after draining the rad/tranny cooler if used and removing the hoses from the motor...)
thats the front end taken care of!
unbolt the steering joint at the top joint, freeing the steering wheel.
under the dash, unclip the clutch and brake pedals.
unbolt the brake booster assembly (4 bolts) and either remove or support so not to break or damage the lines. the master cyl and prop valve will stay with the booster.
unbolt the clutch cylinder from the bulkhead and support.
undo the throttle cable from the pedal and pull thru the hole in the firewall.
undo the emergency brake cable from the pedal and pull thru the hole in the floor.
under the driver side rear corner, disconnect the fuel filler hose and vent from the tank. unplug the electrical connector for the tank.
remove all exhaust hangers from the underside of the tub.
if you have an aftermarket bumper that has a back up light, remove the wires to it.
remove the roll bar inside the tub, and of course the doors. (that is a lot of weight to pick up!)
remove the gearstick on a manual tranny. the haynes/clymer manual will detail this step. remove the rubber boot, and the 2 metal plates that are fastened to the floor by the gear shifters.
get the biggest impact gun you can get, and remove the body mount bolts!!!!
there are 3 pairs running down the side of the frame rails.
1 pair is under the tub, above the front of the fuel tank.
the 2 rear ones are at the sides of the rear bumper.3/4" head bolts if i remember right. the bolts are 2 or 3 different sizes, so remember where they go!!!
double check all lines and cables under the tub, if one or two are ziptied to the tub, cut the ties.
crawl all over the tub, front, under, and back to make sure everything is undone.
get 3 good friends and each pick a corner! the front is by far the heaviest!!
all 4 of you lift straight up, then walk back towards the rear of the jeep and put the tub down after it has cleared the rear end. this is a lot easier than trying to lift it over the motor and all the wires etc. the fuel filler lines should be on the tub, so be carefull not to damage them. you can remove the lines altogether, but there is no real need.
i think that about covers it! if i forgot something, chime in and correct me.
timewise, the 1st time will take @a day from start to finish.
i would highly recommend new body mounts and bolts.
if you hav a major issue with a body mount bolt. i would impact the snot out of it and fix it when the tub is off. you can stand the tub on its side on some old carpet and get to the bottom of it pretty easy.
good luck, may the force be with you!!
the 1st body off....
1st-time.jpg

2nd time, with a new frame and motor....same damn year!!!!!

motorframe.jpg

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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/swap-offically-underway-324622/

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Last edited by leftlanetruckin; 03-31-2007 at 04:19 PM.. Reason: change title
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Unread 01-07-2007, 02:25 PM   #2
mcoughlin
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thanks LeftLane!!! thats a great answer to my post.
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Unread 01-07-2007, 03:32 PM   #3
leftlanetruckin
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more than welcome, like i said, i may have forgotten some small part, thats why i said to crawl all over it and double check all cables and wires...
if you need any help, dont be affraid to gimme a shout on pm's....
martin
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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

Years to gain the hands on experience, and offer it freely.
Minutes to gain the knowledge from the internet, and quote it just as freely.
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Unread 05-07-2008, 03:41 PM   #4
Gallbladder
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Tub Removal

Leftlanetrucker, I am following your thread about removing the tub on my YJ. You mentioned bulkhead plugs. I wiggled the plug around looking for the catch to release it, but can't seem to find it. Didn't want to put to much tension on it. Thanks
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Unread 05-07-2008, 06:17 PM   #5
leftlanetruckin
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the bulkhead plugs i was reffering to off memory, are the ones that are near the brake booster assembly. they feed the interior with power, aswell as the ecm wiring....
they have a bolt IIRC in the middle of the 2 plugs. undo the bolt and just pull the plugs out!

martin
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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

Years to gain the hands on experience, and offer it freely.
Minutes to gain the knowledge from the internet, and quote it just as freely.
Choose wisely!
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Unread 05-07-2008, 06:18 PM   #6
rustywrangler
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Yep, they are bolted togeather.
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Unread 05-07-2008, 06:26 PM   #7
leftlanetruckin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustywrangler View Post
Yep, they are bolted togeather.
cheers patrick, i couldnt be bothered ready through my whole post, but they are about the only plugs on going through the bulkhead IIRC.
Mind, mine is suck a frankenjeep anymore, i doubt i have half the stuff i listed, but replaced it all with chevy/autometer wiring...

martin
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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

Years to gain the hands on experience, and offer it freely.
Minutes to gain the knowledge from the internet, and quote it just as freely.
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Unread 05-07-2008, 06:35 PM   #8
rustywrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin View Post
cheers patrick, i couldnt be bothered ready through my whole post, but they are about the only plugs on going through the bulkhead IIRC.
Mind, mine is suck a frankenjeep anymore, i doubt i have half the stuff i listed, but replaced it all with chevy/autometer wiring...

martin
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Congenital Heart Disease is a reality for me, BOTH of my children have it. Please read up and become aware for future generations

Lydia Ann-Acquired 08/05/05 Open Heart surgery 08/10/05
Jacob Patrick-Acquired 01/17/08 Open Heart surgery 02/15/08
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Unread 02-25-2009, 07:18 PM   #9
J33pFr33k
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doors

this is a total nub question but i cant get my freakin hard doors off my yj. i tried opening them at different angles and lifted up but they go nowhere. the bottom hinge seems like it wants to separate but the top remains firmly together. can anyone help?
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Unread 02-25-2009, 07:34 PM   #10
bigdaddyh
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Do you have to remove the roll bars from the tub? I Herced my bolts in.
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Unread 02-25-2009, 08:18 PM   #11
JFranko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J33pFr33k View Post
this is a total nub question but i cant get my freakin hard doors off my yj. i tried opening them at different angles and lifted up but they go nowhere. the bottom hinge seems like it wants to separate but the top remains firmly together. can anyone help?
Did you take the nut off of the top pin? If you did, then it might just be stubborn, have a friend help you so you can put a couple of blocks of wood under it and jack it up, one of you jacks while the other catch's the door, then when you put it back on, use some kind of grease on the pin so it slides in and out better.
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Unread 02-26-2009, 08:04 PM   #12
leftlanetruckin
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holy thread revival!
doors......if there are no nuts on the pins/bolts, beat em out. i had to do that every time i removed my doors.
roll bar.....it can stay on while removing tub. it is not fastened to anything more than the tub itself.

martin
__________________
1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

Years to gain the hands on experience, and offer it freely.
Minutes to gain the knowledge from the internet, and quote it just as freely.
Choose wisely!
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Unread 05-21-2009, 07:41 PM   #13
hatchtegman
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damn.. i wish somoene that was in pa would help me... im out of it not konw what half the terms mean.

thanks
for this
shane
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Unread 06-11-2009, 02:29 AM   #14
cperren
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complete tub swap

This will be my first tub swap. Aside from PBing the crap out of all the bolts, what else should I do to make this start off smooth? How much of a pain is it to remove the dash and keep things in tact?
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Unread 10-28-2009, 09:22 PM   #15
YNOTA_YJ
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thanks left lane! that post was what i was lookin for. I am just a cheapy free member right now so i cant search unless i go to google, thats why i never found yours.. ha i will be switching to the 20 dollar one, just wanted to check the site out more before i did.
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