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Unread 04-10-2012, 11:28 AM   #61
RikRotorhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YJames90 View Post
When I had it back together I found a short cardboard/paper tube on the bench that looks like it could fit on the shift rod.

Any ideas?

If it's cardboard or paper it doesn't go inside the t-case. Just sayin'.

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Unread 04-10-2012, 11:35 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YJames90 View Post
Oh yeah, I put the spring in after looking over and seeing it AFTER the case was RTVed together and bolted.
I relized it was missing after looking in the view port of the SYE and not seeling the rod move.
I knew i was in for a mess of fresh RTV and was pissed..
Re-assembled it without RTV and just a few bolts to test the case and it works,
Like i said . I get very slight movement of the rear yoke when moving the front yoke when in neutral.
I can lean my finger against the other yoke with very slight pressure to stop rotation. Im guessing this is normal.
I can also spin both yokes in opposite directions at the same time. For this reason it has to be working.

Final assembly and install tonight !
Yes that means it's working right. There will be a little friction from the gears rubbing together on the sides and the fluid between them pushing the other gears.
When you put it all back together, jack up just the rear wheels while the t-case is in neutral. You should be able to spin the rear wheels easily. If you didn't have the true neutral plate you would not be able to spin the rear wheels with the fronts touching the ground.
If you need my ph # again PM me.
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Unread 04-10-2012, 01:08 PM   #63
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Can I use either one of these styles in the transfercase? The stock style dosent have snap ring holes and are a major pain.
The ones Im asking about go on both sides of the plastic speedo gear

Any idea what size they are?
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My 2.5 to 4.3 swap thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...begun-1237704/
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Unread 04-10-2012, 01:52 PM   #64
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I have an information over load question from 3 flat tow threads running the same time. After the true neutral plate install does it still matter what gear the auto transmission is in ?
Im thinking that after the mod theres no forces at the transfer case transfering to the transmission it dosent matter? The transfer case chain and transmission are at idle. just like having the driveshafts removed.
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Spring Over is not for you.... yet





My 2.5 to 4.3 swap thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...begun-1237704/
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Unread 04-10-2012, 08:12 PM   #65
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Everythings back together except for fluid added.
Thanks for the info on this thread! You are a big help!
Heres the cardboard tube I found
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Spring Over is not for you.... yet





My 2.5 to 4.3 swap thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...begun-1237704/
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Unread 04-11-2012, 07:43 AM   #66
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I may have found the cause for the chain dragging noise from the transfercase. My last transfercase fluid change i used 80/90 gear oil not transmission fluid as noted in the FAQ
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Spring Over is not for you.... yet





My 2.5 to 4.3 swap thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...begun-1237704/
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Unread 04-11-2012, 12:52 PM   #67
RikRotorhead
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Yes the t-case uses ATF not gear oil.


Quote:
Originally Posted by YJames90 View Post
I have an information over load question from 3 flat tow threads running the same time. After the true neutral plate install does it still matter what gear the auto transmission is in ?
Im thinking that after the mod theres no forces at the transfer case transfering to the transmission it dosent matter? The transfer case chain and transmission are at idle. just like having the driveshafts removed.
You can leave it in Park. It does not transfer energy forward to the transmission when in neutral.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YJames90 View Post
Everythings back together except for fluid added.
Thanks for the info on this thread! You are a big help!
Heres the cardboard tube I found
You are welcome and that tube is packing/trash. The plastic speedo drive gear was in it.
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Unread 04-11-2012, 05:04 PM   #68
YJames90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RikRotorhead View Post
When you put it all back together, jack up just the rear wheels while the t-case is in neutral. You should be able to spin the rear wheels easily. If you didn't have the true neutral plate you would not be able to spin the rear wheels with the fronts touching the ground.
.



We have success!

Infact its on stands right now and I had to come in to check for the test.
Talk about real time information

Thanks again !!

The shifting is different? hard to tell. I have the Z gate removed
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Spring Over is not for you.... yet





My 2.5 to 4.3 swap thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...begun-1237704/
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Unread 04-11-2012, 09:37 PM   #69
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Curious why you left out the Z gate. Could be why it feels like it shifts different.
I'm glad it's working as it should. That means you put it together right. Congrats. Now help your friends do the same mod.

Nice to know what's inside the t-case eh? Gives you a whole new understanding of how it works. We are as a whole pretty brave to dig into our diffs and gear boxes and wiring and everything else, and when we are on the trail we know instantly when something isn't right.
A true Jeeper isn't afraid to twist a wrench on or drill a hole in his rig.
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Unread 04-19-2012, 01:11 AM   #70
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YJ 231 True Neutral

Rik, in your post you stated "The only time the two drive shafts are independent of each other is when the t-case is in 2 wheel drive. Not a problem at all if you are flat towing and do not have a locker in the front axle." Does this mean I can flat tow my '92 YJ auto (with arb's front and rear and a single piece passenger side front axle replacing the factory 2 piece vaccuum disconnect setup) as long as the front arb/locker is disengaged, or do I need the true neutral plate? Thx.
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Unread 04-19-2012, 06:08 PM   #71
RikRotorhead
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With the ARB it just turns the carrier and one axle when disco'd. Put the tranny in park, the t-case in neutral, and the ARB disco'd and you should be good. A little funny tire wear may occur but it should handle OK. You would be better off with the true neutral, that's why they put it in the TJ and newer t-cases.
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Unread 04-19-2012, 06:20 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YJames90 View Post
The stock style dosent have snap ring holes and are a major pain.
They are lock rings, and they require a special tool for easy removal + installation, a pair of Lock Ring Pliers:

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Unread 04-19-2012, 09:36 PM   #73
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Those are nice. I used two small screwdrivers and fought it off. Those would have been much more convenient.
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Unread 04-19-2012, 09:43 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE

They are lock rings, and they require a special tool for easy removal + installation, a pair of Lock Ring Pliers:
Yup. I paid $55 for a Matco pair, they're worth every penny.

Max
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Unread 04-19-2012, 10:02 PM   #75
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I used the one on the right, worked perfect and easy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poke View Post
Spring Over is not for you.... yet





My 2.5 to 4.3 swap thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...begun-1237704/
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