Transmission troubles - JeepForum.com
 2Likes
  • 1 Post By mike134
  • 1 Post By mike134
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 11 Old 09-25-2017, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
jeepslinger
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 5
Garage
Transmission troubles

Hello all! You all seem so helpful and informative. While I am mechanically inclined, I just swiped an '87 Wrangler from a guy for what I think is a great price. I even drove it 70 miles to my house and all seemed well until...first, the steering damper seized in full right turn. easy day and $35. Then, when going to op check the steering, trans got stuck in what I believe to be 2nd gear. Pulled stick out (looks different from GM and Ford models I used to dig into when I was young) an checked fluid level (not really but I added a half a bottle of 90W. Stuck shift stick back in and still no joy. Rocked with engine on and off. Clutch disengages and engages well as I can start the engine without rolling and can roll around the street trying to stir up fluids in trans. Who would have the best idea to get it unstuck or does is need to come down? I have seen where people were getting "signs" from the shifting that deep work was needed soon but they could "deal" with it for a bit.

jeepslinger is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 Old 09-26-2017, 09:55 AM
mike134
Registered User
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 5,935
This is a manual transmission?

Did you put oil in, or did you FILL the transfer case?

Your first move should be to drain the transmission, then refill with 10w30 dinosaur motor oil. Drive for a couple hundred miles, then drain it again and look for brass chunks. Refill a final time with 10w30 full synthetic, or better yet Redline or synchromesh.
cyoos likes this.
mike134 is online now  
post #3 of 11 Old 09-26-2017, 10:55 AM
cyoos
Registered User
1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Wichita
Posts: 1,241
^^^ What Mike said. The tranny uses 10W-30 dino, and the transfer case uses ATF.

My daughter's boyfriend put Redline in her transmission and it made a noticeable improvement when shifting. Granted, her car is a Honda, but it's still a synchromesh 6 speed.

4.6L/AX15/OME/1" booms in back/8.8-4.10-LSD/XJ D30 in work/32" Falken Wildpeak AT's
cyoos is offline  
 
post #4 of 11 Old 09-26-2017, 11:40 AM
mike134
Registered User
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 5,935
cyoos is commenting because of how absurdly confusing this has all been in the past. There was literally years of debate on what to do with the Aisin AX-15 transmission.

So to summarize, I should also mention that 75w90 gear oil is the correct viscosity as (rated on different scales than engine oil).

It is the sulfur content of the modern gear oil specifications that have people concerned about its use with our brass synchronizers. It was a different formulation in the 1980's. Combining the fact that the original Jeep owner's manual listed the wrong oil GL level, it was extraordinarily confusing. The 10w30 engine oil sidesteps this issue. It is nearly the same viscosity (just rated on a different scale) hopefully without the large sulfur content that people were originally concerned with.

You can totally sidestep all issues by using redline or synchromesh, which is designed as a gear oil, but does not have the sulfur of normal gear oils that will eat your synchronizes.

But if you are doing a short term slush and flush, you really want to use $10 of dinosaur oil rather than $80 of redline fluid.
cyoos likes this.
mike134 is online now  
post #5 of 11 Old 09-27-2017, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
jeepslinger
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 5
Garage
Great ideas by all and will do a full oil change out with something with quality and reliability as I am reading about Redline oil. When it got 'stuck" in gear, it was in 3rd after experiencing a "cough" and the engine stalled (most likely because it was still choked running high idle) and somehow, the lower end of the pivot stick that shifts gears in the xmission got out of the slot for 3rd/4th. After reviewing some vids on Youtube, I knew what to look for when I removed and re-installed the pivot point and got it into the 3rd/4th gear slot. After bolting down the pivot retainer, it shifted out of 3rd to N and then I took it for a drive around the neighborhood. All gears were made and it appeared quieter after the addition of about 1/2 qt of 75w90 that I had on the shelf.
Now, my only problem is that the gear stick had been broken or modified at least three times and one of the welds broke while following "how-to's" to unstuck a manual transmission. So now I have only a half-length shift stick. I can't seem to find those online anywhere so, if anyone would know where I could start to look or the best search nomenclature, it would be greatly appreciated.
My xmission is the notorious BA10/5. The pivot is topped with a 5/8" to 13/16" square. The gear stick has the square receptacle (female) on the lower end with a retaining device and some rubber in it. A couple of mild curves and the threaded top.
jeepslinger is offline  
post #6 of 11 Old 09-27-2017, 10:23 AM
mike134
Registered User
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 5,935
One of the reasons that people don't like the BA10/5 is that parts are hard to find and expensive. I've also heard that it is much more difficult to rebuild.

How do you feel about just changing over to the AX-15? is the money in the cards for the bellhousing adapter?
mike134 is online now  
post #7 of 11 Old 09-27-2017, 11:12 AM
bpounds
Web Wheeler
 
bpounds's Avatar
1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Whittier
Posts: 2,008
If it helps, the stub on the Peugeot and Aisin trans are both 3/4" square.

I used my Peugeot shifter stalk on my swapped in Aisin AX15 and it fit fine. It sits a little higher, and I like it better for that reason.

I can't imagine anything happening to the shifter stalk that cannot be repaired by a welder. And the spring steel retainer and rubber isolator bushing are all easily available. I imagine those are interchangeable between the Peugeot and Aisin as well.

I too, see a tranny swap in your future.

Bill
Dodge did not build my Jeep.
1988 Wrangler,4.2L I-6, Howell EFI JP-1,CRT HEI Ign,AX15 ext slave conversion, Zone 2.5" lift + 1/2" booms, BFG 31 x 10.5, Bestop.
bpounds is online now  
post #8 of 11 Old 09-27-2017, 11:45 AM
mike134
Registered User
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 5,935
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpounds View Post

I can't imagine anything happening to the shifter stalk that cannot be repaired by a welder.
Hahaha. True. Technically, anything is easy if you (or the computer) are skilled enough. They are about to start building jet fighter engine turbines from scratch with welders (I bet a billion dollars have been spent on that technology by now).... They may even be building parts as needed onboard aircraft carriers during combat ops in the next few years. "Oh, you broke your compressor blades by sucking a 26 pound frozen chicken into the jet intake, its only rated for a 25 pound frozen chicken, here's a new one I welded up from scratch"....

But I think the Aisin AX-15 swap is easier at this point. I wouldn't mess around with the BA10/5 besides replacing external components and changing the fluid.
mike134 is online now  
post #9 of 11 Old 09-28-2017, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
jeepslinger
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 5
Garage
mike134, that is my plan for now, just to "maintain" it as it will either be an occasional driver (weekly min) or my daughter will have it for work and coming home (work is <10 miles, home is ~20miles) and 5/10 it to a higher esthetically pleasing look. If she doesn't give me any heartache after a few years of reliability, I think a full on engine/trans swap will be in order so I can continue to relish in carbureted power.

Not having owed a 4x4 previously, ever, what tis the usual/best fluid for the xfer case?

bpounds, Yeah, all I am wanting another stick for is because this one will have been welded four times, twice in the same location. I nice solid one is in order in the future and then, I'll have a back-up or I can modify the old one for a cool look and more clearance for the console (when I put it in "Racing" mode[reverse], it strikes the console that is in there, assumedly as an original equipment piece.)

Thanks again all for the support. I hope to one day be able to help others with experiences gained.
jeepslinger is offline  
post #10 of 11 Old Today, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
jeepslinger
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 5
Garage
So, I finally got underneath the YJ. First thing, anyone know the actual size of the drain and fill cap for the BA10/5 Transmission? It is a square recessed one but the obvious 3/8" ratchet is too big, a 1/4" is too small. Most likely a metric one of 7,8 or9mm. Would like to know if anyone knows its exact size so I can locate or fabricate a tool for it and keep it as long as I keep the trans. Daughter uses it for work so, I pretty much only get to tinker on weekends if I don't have another project on the house. Thanks in advance!
jeepslinger is offline  
post #11 of 11 Old Today, 09:01 AM
bpounds
Web Wheeler
 
bpounds's Avatar
1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Whittier
Posts: 2,008
I believe it is 8mm or 5/16" square. You can buy a square drive tool. I just took an old 5/16" allen wrench, ground 2 corners off to make it square, and it worked perfectly. Grind slowly and keep it cool, so you don't ruin the heat treat.

Bill
Dodge did not build my Jeep.
1988 Wrangler,4.2L I-6, Howell EFI JP-1,CRT HEI Ign,AX15 ext slave conversion, Zone 2.5" lift + 1/2" booms, BFG 31 x 10.5, Bestop.
bpounds is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome