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Unread 11-25-2003, 08:19 PM   #1
smok3y
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Transfer Case Leak

Ok im posting this from my friend BigGreen03 he just got a 94 wrangler 4.0l yata yata NP231 Tcase ok well we went into this sugar sand today to check out this F150 we saw stuck earlier well we got to the place and it was SOFT sand so he popped it in 4hi and went on our way, when we drove 10 miles home or what not we got some food...yata yata
went outside to get in the jeep and i notice a lil puddle under the jeep i crawl under and stick my finger in and its Red now this came to me automatically as Tranny Fluid, but i looked to see where it was dripping from and it was the back of the Tcase where the Slip Yoke meets the rear DS if someone posted a pic i could point exactly where its coming from but im wondering if this is a seal...or what? someone help plz

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Unread 11-25-2003, 08:25 PM   #2
Bob K
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There is a seal there. If you change it, also change the aluminum sleeve behind it. When the sleeve wears out the yoke begins to squirm around which causes even a brand new seal to leak.
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Unread 11-26-2003, 12:01 PM   #3
smok3y
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how much would this cost? would it be about the same price to just get an SYE instead of another SY
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Unread 11-26-2003, 03:46 PM   #4
billetbong
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the stuff leaking from the T-case automatically came to you as tranny fluid because it was just that...... i dunno how much this aluminum sleeve costs, but if the slip yoke were to squirm at all, wouldnt that indicate that the slip yoke itself and/or the splines on the output shaft are also wore? so maybe if this sleeve is pricey, i would say if theres no driveline vibration you could probably get away with not replacing the mentioned sleeve. im just going by the idea of everything here, ive never actually had a t-case apart.
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Unread 11-26-2003, 03:51 PM   #5
Bob K
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The aluminum sleeve costs a couple of bucks. It's about the size and thickness of the cardboard from a roll of toilet paper. When I did the job I did change the yoke ($78) on the recommendation of the mechanic at the dealer. If I were to do it over again I would not replace the yoke unless it continued to leak after I replaced the seal and the sleeve. The sleeve should keep it centered well enough.
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'87 Wrangler YJ 4.2 I6 (sorry, sold)
JuiceBox ignition
2 1/2" ProComp Lift
31" BFG A/T's
K&N Filter
Custom Rock Guards
Turbo Muffler
Rear Track Bar in the shed
Other Tricks I won't tell to just anybody!

'99 Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8
Towing Package
K&N FIPK
ProComp MX6 shocks
Borla Exhaust
Tow Hooks
Alpine CD with Infinity+iPod connect
Just getting started!

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Unread 11-26-2003, 04:01 PM   #6
billetbong
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ahh, i c, i would think that if the output shaft and slipyoke didnt run tight enough to keep it cented it would vibrate, but i guess that sleeve would more than likely wear before the slip yoke, and giving the yoke something else to make it run true would more than likely prolong its life....... this is kind of an interesting thought.
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Unread 11-26-2003, 04:20 PM   #7
Bob K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billetbong
ahh, i c, i would think that if the output shaft and slipyoke didnt run tight enough to keep it cented it would vibrate, but i guess that sleeve would more than likely wear before the slip yoke, and giving the yoke something else to make it run true would more than likely prolong its life....... this is kind of an interesting thought.
Exactly. After I spent the money I figured that the aluminum would wear out way before the yoke. But you know how those factory trained mechanics are they just replace everything in sight and charge up the yin yang.
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'87 Wrangler YJ 4.2 I6 (sorry, sold)
JuiceBox ignition
2 1/2" ProComp Lift
31" BFG A/T's
K&N Filter
Custom Rock Guards
Turbo Muffler
Rear Track Bar in the shed
Other Tricks I won't tell to just anybody!

'99 Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8
Towing Package
K&N FIPK
ProComp MX6 shocks
Borla Exhaust
Tow Hooks
Alpine CD with Infinity+iPod connect
Just getting started!

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Unread 11-26-2003, 04:41 PM   #8
smok3y
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bob how hard of a job is the sleeve and seal? ive replaced rear main seals and im in the process of doing my engine swap, do u have to disconnect the DS? or what? let me know please if there is a walkthrough or somthin online let me know thatd be great thanks man!
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Unread 11-26-2003, 04:48 PM   #9
Bob K
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I might not remember all the details. I did it about 5 years ago. I remember it was very easy. Put a pan under. Remove the DS. Remove the tailshaft from the TC. Drive out the old sleeve with a corresponding size socket. Lubricate and drive in the new one with the same socket or with the old sleeve. I haven't leaked a drop since. If your yoke was damaged for any reason. I'll sell ya my old one for the cost of S&H. About twenty bucks.
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'87 Wrangler YJ 4.2 I6 (sorry, sold)
JuiceBox ignition
2 1/2" ProComp Lift
31" BFG A/T's
K&N Filter
Custom Rock Guards
Turbo Muffler
Rear Track Bar in the shed
Other Tricks I won't tell to just anybody!

'99 Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8
Towing Package
K&N FIPK
ProComp MX6 shocks
Borla Exhaust
Tow Hooks
Alpine CD with Infinity+iPod connect
Just getting started!

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Unread 03-05-2004, 09:27 AM   #10
JayJEEPguy
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So, you need to remove the tail cone to change that metal bushing and seal?

What do you use for a new gasket, if one is needed?

I bought the parts this week. Grand total was about $34 or so.

I am also suffering from vibrations on take-off and the seal is spitting fluid everywhere

Thanks!
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Unread 03-08-2004, 07:41 AM   #11
JayJEEPguy
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Does ANYBODY know the answer I am looking for? Going to be doing this tomorrow...
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Unread 03-08-2004, 08:06 AM   #12
Bob K
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Yes. You have to remove the tail section. It's not a big deal. There's no gasket. Use silicone to reseal it. The parts are aluminum so torque the bolts evenly and carefully during reassembly.
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'87 Wrangler YJ 4.2 I6 (sorry, sold)
JuiceBox ignition
2 1/2" ProComp Lift
31" BFG A/T's
K&N Filter
Custom Rock Guards
Turbo Muffler
Rear Track Bar in the shed
Other Tricks I won't tell to just anybody!

'99 Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8
Towing Package
K&N FIPK
ProComp MX6 shocks
Borla Exhaust
Tow Hooks
Alpine CD with Infinity+iPod connect
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Unread 03-08-2004, 08:34 AM   #13
sequel
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I haven't heard of too many people replacing that sleeve. Most people just replace the seal. I did it last year and i didn't remove the tail cone. Here are some directions from a post last year...

http://jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sh...threadid=425527
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Unread 03-08-2004, 08:58 AM   #14
Bob K
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Yeah. I replaced just the seal. Three times. They all leaked. I caught the Jeep mechanics on their lunch break and they explained that when the sleeve wears out the yoke begins to oscillate in the tail shaft and it becomes impossible for the seal to hold back the fluid.
Of course there are also times when just the seal is bad and the sleeve is not worn. I think any Jeep with over 100k, especially if it is lifted, will benefit from replacing the sleeve. It's inexpensive and easy to replace. A lot better than replacing the seal once then finding out that the sleeve is bad. Then you have to do the job twice.
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'87 Wrangler YJ 4.2 I6 (sorry, sold)
JuiceBox ignition
2 1/2" ProComp Lift
31" BFG A/T's
K&N Filter
Custom Rock Guards
Turbo Muffler
Rear Track Bar in the shed
Other Tricks I won't tell to just anybody!

'99 Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8
Towing Package
K&N FIPK
ProComp MX6 shocks
Borla Exhaust
Tow Hooks
Alpine CD with Infinity+iPod connect
Just getting started!

If you're not living on the edge...
you're taking up too much space.
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Unread 03-08-2004, 09:17 AM   #15
JayJEEPguy
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Well, I figured I would replace the sleeve and the seal at the same time, as the seal has been leaking for some time. I also have a slight vibration on take-off(could have been caused by shackle lift). If it fixes the vibration, great! If not, I'll deal with it.

I'm guessing the Blue RTV silicone gasket maker is fine to use on the tail cone, then?
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'04 WJ:Special Edition. V8, QTII, 2"BB, Bilsteins & 245/75/16" Goodyears
'02 WJ:4.7L, Selec-Trac. Totalled 9-12-07. Click to hearKolak 3" exhaust sound clip
http://www.cardomain.com/id/MourningWoody
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