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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > tranny skid/crossmember

Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 09-07-2013, 06:14 PM   #16
NHfireYJ
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Check w quadratec for these http://www.quadratec.com/products/pr...rust&submit=Go

it is a lot of work and you need to have your welding down before doing spring mounts etc...

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Unread 09-07-2013, 06:18 PM   #17
Tyler980
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What would you say minimum volts/amps a welder has to be to work on the frame?
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Unread 09-07-2013, 06:21 PM   #18
NHfireYJ
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I have an older model of this... http://www.lowes.com/pd_366784-1703-...ers&facetInfo=

works great. for projects in general you want to be able to do 1/4" thick. that'll take care of most anything you need on the jeep and around the garage...
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BETTY...94 SE, Golen Stroker 4.6, RE 4" lift, 1" booms rear, 1/2" booms front, 1" BL, 35 12.5 15 GY MTR's Kevlar on 15 x 8, AA SYE w/ Woods shaft, D30 Aussie, 8.8 w/ LSD, 4.10, Smittybilt front and rear bumpers, Wildbuilt rock sliders, Cutom tire carrier w/ Jerry can, Hi-Lift, Smitybilt 8000lb winch, Ammo can consol, VHF & CB radio, Herculined, Neoprene seat covers, Hard /soft/ bikini tops.

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Unread 09-07-2013, 06:28 PM   #19
Tyler980
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For that price I almost wonder if I should just pay somewhere to do it :P
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Unread 09-07-2013, 06:32 PM   #20
NHfireYJ
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look on CL used... or for about $500-600 (for a frame) you might do a frame swap. Depends how bad your frame is.

PICS?

Estimate to do mine was almost $800 from a shop to do both rear frame sections. I ended up doing myself over a few months..
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BETTY...94 SE, Golen Stroker 4.6, RE 4" lift, 1" booms rear, 1/2" booms front, 1" BL, 35 12.5 15 GY MTR's Kevlar on 15 x 8, AA SYE w/ Woods shaft, D30 Aussie, 8.8 w/ LSD, 4.10, Smittybilt front and rear bumpers, Wildbuilt rock sliders, Cutom tire carrier w/ Jerry can, Hi-Lift, Smitybilt 8000lb winch, Ammo can consol, VHF & CB radio, Herculined, Neoprene seat covers, Hard /soft/ bikini tops.

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Unread 09-07-2013, 06:35 PM   #21
Tyler980
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I will take some tomorrow. Where the Driver side rear shock is mounted to frame is starting to rust away... rear track bar is disconnected from frame at driver side 'cause rust, then both sides next to gas tank on the frame are rotted out
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Unread 09-07-2013, 06:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler980 View Post
I will take some tomorrow. Where the Driver side rear shock is mounted to frame is starting to rust away... rear track bar is disconnected from frame at driver side 'cause rust, then both sides next to gas tank on the frame are rotted out
Hit the rest of the frame with a BFH and find the rest of the rust.... Sounds like a frame swap might be in your future
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BETTY...94 SE, Golen Stroker 4.6, RE 4" lift, 1" booms rear, 1/2" booms front, 1" BL, 35 12.5 15 GY MTR's Kevlar on 15 x 8, AA SYE w/ Woods shaft, D30 Aussie, 8.8 w/ LSD, 4.10, Smittybilt front and rear bumpers, Wildbuilt rock sliders, Cutom tire carrier w/ Jerry can, Hi-Lift, Smitybilt 8000lb winch, Ammo can consol, VHF & CB radio, Herculined, Neoprene seat covers, Hard /soft/ bikini tops.

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Unread 09-07-2013, 06:43 PM   #23
Tyler980
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Hope not. I will do that though. I'm thinking its only the rear. The mid section and front look and feel pretty solid.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 06:56 PM   #24
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This is a write up in the FAQ on how to replace the nutserts.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/nu...nstall-390635/
This is where you can buy them and the bolts.
http://shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/87-...RDWARE-USA.htm
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Unread 09-07-2013, 07:19 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
This is a write up in the FAQ on how to replace the nutserts.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/nu...nstall-390635/
This is where you can buy them and the bolts.
http://shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/87-...RDWARE-USA.htm
Thanks I bookmarked that writeup.. Only thing I may have an issue with is that I used a crowbar to pry my old skidplate off and i broke the nutsert through the frame on oneside, so the opening is probably too big at this point.
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Unread 09-09-2013, 05:57 PM   #26
Tyler980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHfireYJ View Post

Hit the rest of the frame with a BFH and find the rest of the rust.... Sounds like a frame swap might be in your future
I forgot to hit it with a hammer today and I tried to get a pic of frame but my phone has no flash and even in broad daylight couldn't see anything. But I did grab this pic inside the tub under the drivers seatbelt where it rolls up. Tried to take roll off and it just broke all the bondo and other crap metal out..

img_20130909_183220-1.jpg
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Unread 09-15-2013, 01:23 PM   #27
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I took the stock steps off and this is what the other side of the rust looks like....

img_20130915_140743-1.jpg

Dunno what I'm gonna do about all this rust :/
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Unread 09-15-2013, 01:52 PM   #28
NHfireYJ
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Yup... That's par for NE jeeps. learn to weld or get a new frame...

BTW, this is how I started
skid4a.jpg   framerp2a.jpg  
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BETTY...94 SE, Golen Stroker 4.6, RE 4" lift, 1" booms rear, 1/2" booms front, 1" BL, 35 12.5 15 GY MTR's Kevlar on 15 x 8, AA SYE w/ Woods shaft, D30 Aussie, 8.8 w/ LSD, 4.10, Smittybilt front and rear bumpers, Wildbuilt rock sliders, Cutom tire carrier w/ Jerry can, Hi-Lift, Smitybilt 8000lb winch, Ammo can consol, VHF & CB radio, Herculined, Neoprene seat covers, Hard /soft/ bikini tops.

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Unread 09-15-2013, 11:50 PM   #29
Tyler980
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Oof... my rear frame isn't as bad as yours is... but its starting to get there... the bottom by the shackles is a decent size hole... and on the side its starting to get soft.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 11:51 PM   #30
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Suppose I'll have to invest in a welder soon and learn >.> Hopefully I can get the money for it before my frames too bad haha... at least its only the rear of the frame, the rest is solid.
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