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Unread 08-14-2013, 07:57 PM   #16
hotcobra03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
You need to run the full set of adjustemnts to see where you are at ISA, TPS, WOT, and fuel pressure . A bad injector will dump fuel and it is indicated by not being able to hold pressure after key off. Running rich is usually the O2 sensor putting out a bad reading. It is very very common to have a leak on the exhaust manifold from missing/lose bolts (especially in the rear near the firewall or a cracked exhaust manifold. The exhaust leak will allow air into the ehaust before the O2 sensor making it think it is running lean and cause the ecu to dump fuel.

The thread I posted below has links to Shaefs thread which has a bunch of great info as well as a link to the downloads for the factory service manual.
I was using free online manual on morris 4x4..got part breakdown with part numbers..

but this I just downloaded and saved,,i will go thru it..

had searched for multimeter user manual..no luck. But after some you tube videos and basic link on meters it looks like it has a lot of worn out parts..

spark plug wires @2ohms if I am reading it right.. all 4 and coil..are the same..going

if map sensor is tested by 2 wires not power that read 283.5 ohms every other sensor read single digit..

going to parts store to test new part and see difference in meter reading if any

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Unread 08-14-2013, 09:51 PM   #17
Billy
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did someone say tps?

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Unread 08-15-2013, 07:40 AM   #18
Que89YJ
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The service factory service manual at Morris is for a 93 YJ which is totally different then the 87-90 TBI like ours. Hot/cold issue is usually related to the O2 sensor. The engine goes into closed loop and uses the output from the o2 sensor to determine air/fuel. The cracked manifold or bad sensor can cause the isue with the readings. High idle is the ISA and was one of the adjustments I listed or a vacuum leak that will cause high idle. Our YJ has the EGR and it will cause it to bog down as will the IAT sensor.
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Unread 08-15-2013, 01:54 PM   #19
jred
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I'm betting on fuel delivery. I had a similar issue on my bike, fuel filter looked brand new... on the side I could see. Back side was completely clogged. It confused me because it would run fine in lower gears, even at high RPM, and I though 5k RPM in 2nd uses the same amount of fuel as 5k RPM in 5th... While that still makes sense to me, all I know is changing out the filter fixed it... until the filter got clogged with rust again.

What you can see of the gas tank might be clean, but that doesn't mean it all is. The paint thinner smell of old gas, and the varnish that comes with it, could have partially clogged either the filter or the jets.
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Unread 08-15-2013, 02:45 PM   #20
hotcobra03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
The service factory service manual at Morris is for a 93 YJ which is totally different then the 87-90 TBI like ours. Hot/cold issue is usually related to the O2 sensor. The engine goes into closed loop and uses the output from the o2 sensor to determine air/fuel. The cracked manifold or bad sensor can cause the isue with the readings. High idle is the ISA and was one of the adjustments I listed or a vacuum leak that will cause high idle. Our YJ has the EGR and it will cause it to bog down as will the IAT sensor.
yes I seen the differance between yrs,,copyright changes took chiltons library away.manuals are so hard to search..asking is best..I didnt see that linkin stickys
I
best part both manuals work from my cell..now I can be in front of info.

I had found the tbi link you posted..we need to get hand vac to test more sensors..

whats average compression..I only did cold test had 125 psi all 4''
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Unread 08-15-2013, 03:38 PM   #21
Que89YJ
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125 is good. Down load the fsm in the link. It is by far the best the most detailed. Do the adjustment to the isa. It is primarily responsible for idle. You can position it using a jumper wire from the battery to the diagnostic connection on the pass side of the engine compartment. The pin out in the manual for the diagnostic connection will tell you the wires to jumper. If you have any questions pm me with your number and I will help you out.
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Unread 08-16-2013, 01:33 AM   #22
hotcobra03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
125 is good. Down load the fsm in the link. It is by far the best the most detailed. Do the adjustment to the isa. It is primarily responsible for idle. You can position it using a jumper wire from the battery to the diagnostic connection on the pass side of the engine compartment. The pin out in the manual for the diagnostic connection will tell you the wires to jumper. If you have any questions pm me with your number and I will help you out.
manual has been downloaded..

im re testing parts,,

o2 passed test,,volts..test lead to power wire/test lead to o2 body,,heat o2

I watched volt go from 0 to 1 volt..

coolant sensor..watched resistance drop to 0 in hot water,,


I have to re check iat sensor ...


I have to recheck fuel injector,,i had taken it apart and re installed same way.but it isn't the same as in that link,,

I need to get tank back in and fresh gas..

thanks for the fast help..i have the ford service manual for 2003 it covers all 26 models for 03 and 04..its on cd so I can understand jeeps fsm just got to go slow
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Unread 08-16-2013, 06:55 AM   #23
Que89YJ
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Set the IAT and post back. The diagnostic connector jumper wire is a great trick.
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Unread 08-16-2013, 10:25 PM   #24
hotcobra03
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question on egr valve

took it off..

it leaks. for testing can I just block it?
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Unread 08-17-2013, 07:05 AM   #25
Que89YJ
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Permanently. That is a vacuum leak directly into your manifold. There are a few threads here on what to do.
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Unread 08-17-2013, 04:55 PM   #26
Que89YJ
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Here is a link on searching the forum using google. Use it and you will find a few threads covering the egr.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...oogle-1003734/
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Unread 08-19-2013, 08:02 AM   #27
hotcobra03
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ok put plate to block egr,it idles better,

I attached a vacuum guage and went for a ride,

vacuum sat at 5-0 till you let off pedal

half pedal was 11,,

idle was 17''

guage says late valve timing or clogged exhaust,,exhaust is straigh pipe,,

so im pulling. over to look at chain and.count links vs marks
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Unread 08-19-2013, 09:17 AM   #28
Que89YJ
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So what is the exact symptoms now?
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Unread 08-19-2013, 10:13 AM   #29
hotcobra03
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still no power..we did change spark plug wires,new wires ohmed triple the old.

it idles so nice vs before is about the only change,

I looked at bowl for fuel pressure adjust ment,screw is toast.

the intake gasket was just done also..that was first repair.

I found a bone yard close by that im going to look for tbi.

after I check timing chain we are going to check dist for timing advance .

that also can be confused as issue..like no advance on timing,
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Unread 08-19-2013, 11:05 AM   #30
Que89YJ
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I dont think it's the tb because you would usually have an idle issue to go along with it. Not always but most of the time.

Look through Shaef's threads. The first shows the screw. It usually has a cover you need to remove to get at it. The second is the throttlebody rebuild:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/2...-idle-1293410/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/8...ocess-1293442/

Download the Factory service manual, get a meter and run through the adjustments for the fuel pressure. IAT, throttle, and WOT. Check the function of the MAP(Controls advance and seems to be what you are explaining), and the eng. and manifold temp.


To download the fsm:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/40590346/87-88%20YJ%20Jeep%20Wrangler%20FSM%20manual.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/40590346/1990%20Jeep%20Factory%20Service%20Manual.pdf

The adjustments are critical first and foremost!
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