Towing a stock YJ Auto transmission 4 tires on the ground behind RV - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 29 Old 09-25-2017, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
mikwallace
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Towing a stock YJ Auto transmission 4 tires on the ground behind RV

I searched this website about the topic and found some info but want to be sure I'm interpreting correctly. I want to tow my YJ four tires on the ground behind my RV using a tow bar. The YJ has stock (I think) axles, with Auto transmission.

From what I read on several threads, it appears that as long as my front axle vacuum is disconnecting when Tcase is placed in 2H, AND I:

1. Put Tcase in N
2. Put auto tranny in P
3. Place ignition switch in 1st click (unlocking steering wheel).

I should be able to tow the YJ without any issues. Can the experts chime in and confirm my assumptions above?

How do I ensure front axle vacuum is disconnecting when in 2H? Right now I've the engine removed and can't put vacuum on the system.

Thanks!


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post #2 of 29 Old 09-25-2017, 10:18 PM
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yup, that it. Even if the front was engaged it wouldn't hurt as long it's not spooled or anything.

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post #3 of 29 Old 09-25-2017, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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yup, that it. Even if the front was engaged it wouldn't hurt as long it's not spooled or anything.


What do you mean "not spooled"?


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post #4 of 29 Old 09-25-2017, 10:32 PM
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I shouldn't even have stated that, I'm sure you're not. It connects both sided of the axle not allowing an open differential to spin freely. Even if the vacuum system is engaged it wouldn't be a problem.

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post #5 of 29 Old 09-26-2017, 12:05 AM
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I've flat towed mine all the way to Moab and back with one piece shafts up front so no worries on the CAD. If you're going to be making a habit of flat towing it, I'd look into getting a true neutral plate for the t-case. If you're interested in getting one Omix-Ada makes one part number 18676.32 they run between $35-40 depending on where you look.

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post #6 of 29 Old 09-26-2017, 12:40 AM
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I've flat towed mine all the way to Moab and back with one piece shafts up front so no worries on the CAD. If you're going to be making a habit of flat towing it, I'd look into getting a true neutral plate for the t-case. If you're interested in getting one Omix-Ada makes one part number 18676.32 they run between $35-40 depending on where you look.
So what does this part accomplish? It truly isolates the front and rear DS from each other?

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post #7 of 29 Old 09-26-2017, 07:01 AM
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New unused True neutral plate available $25 shipped. , Bought it didn't need it.
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post #8 of 29 Old 09-26-2017, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikwallace View Post
I searched this website about the topic and found some info but want to be sure I'm interpreting correctly. I want to tow my YJ four tires on the ground behind my RV using a tow bar. The YJ has stock (I think) axles, with Auto transmission.

From what I read on several threads, it appears that as long as my front axle vacuum is disconnecting when Tcase is placed in 2H, AND I:

1. Put Tcase in N
2. Put auto tranny in P
3. Place ignition switch in 1st click (unlocking steering wheel).

I should be able to tow the YJ without any issues. Can the experts chime in and confirm my assumptions above?

How do I ensure front axle vacuum is disconnecting when in 2H? Right now I've the engine removed and can't put vacuum on the system.

Thanks!


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As long as your 4WD light is working properly, if it is OFF, then your CAD is disconnected properly.

As long as you don't have any autolockers, you're good to go as you listed the steps above. It's a great idea to get the manual out of the glove compartment every time and read it as a check list. Add a page with steps on how your tow bar is hooked up. Keep charting your mileage, because you will have normal road wear. Keep doing 5 tire rotations for example.
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post #9 of 29 Old 09-26-2017, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
I've flat towed mine all the way to Moab and back with one piece shafts up front so no worries on the CAD. If you're going to be making a habit of flat towing it, I'd look into getting a true neutral plate for the t-case. If you're interested in getting one Omix-Ada makes one part number 18676.32 they run between $35-40 depending on where you look.


Is there a YouTube or write up on the installation of the neutral plate?? I've got the engine pulled out for rebuild and now would be the time to do it. I plan on pulling it behind RV so I'll probably put more miles on it towing than driving.


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post #10 of 29 Old 09-26-2017, 10:47 AM
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Here is a video I dfound on the plate..

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post #11 of 29 Old 09-26-2017, 10:51 AM
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Ah, if its already out, then definitely install the true neutral!
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post #12 of 29 Old 09-26-2017, 10:55 AM
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Flat towing and needing the neutral plate is only an issue if you have a lunchbox locker in the front, however installing the plate is never a bad idea and jeep made the modification starting with the TJs.

For general information here's my original thread on the subject, the long version explanation is in about post #12.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/y...roblem-595457/

This came as a huge surprise to me when I was heading out for a long weekend after installing an aussie locker. Turned left at the end of my street and the jeep went hard right.

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post #13 of 29 Old 09-26-2017, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulhead View Post
So what does this part accomplish? It truly isolates the front and rear DS from each other?
It puts the t-case in a "true neutral". The design of the stock plate basically puts the fork sorta between 2 & 4 but it's just a hump on the plate with nothing really keeping it in place. There have been cases of it popping back in to eihter 2 or 4 while towing and causing obvious major damage. I'm sure there's a better more technical explanation out there.

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Originally Posted by mikwallace View Post
Is there a YouTube or write up on the installation of the neutral plate?? I've got the engine pulled out for rebuild and now would be the time to do it. I plan on pulling it behind RV so I'll probably put more miles on it towing than driving.


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I don't know of a wirte up per se but if you open the t-case, it's pretty self explanatory. I'll PM you a link to a downloadable PDF for the 231. I had a hard copy but sent it with my SYE to someone else.

NHfireLJ mentioned having one for sale, that's a good price. If either of you are interested, I also have the one I used that's just sitting in the garage in the old case since the Atlas install.
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post #14 of 29 Old 10-01-2017, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Towing a stock YJ Auto transmission 4 tires on the ground behind RV

Ok, so I dropped the tranny and T-case today with the intent to install the “True Neutral” selector. But, before I started thought I’d jack up all 4 wheels and see what turned when. With Tranny and T-case in N, both DS are synced and rear tires turn but front tires don’t. So, after I disconnected the DS’s and dropped the tranny & Tcase, I put the tires back on the ground, I turned the front diff pinion and it spun freely. Then I removed the vacuum motor and manually synced the front axles with the CAD fork and the front pinion wouldn’t turn. Is this the way it’s suppose to work?


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post #15 of 29 Old 10-01-2017, 08:35 PM
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I think that sounds correct, an open differential will only guarantee that the torque from the driveshaft will be split by both differential output shafts, but in the case of a huge wheel force discrepancy only one output shaft has to turn. In the case of the disengaged CAD, the tiny lightweight relatively low friction CAD shaft gets all of the rotation from the diff/driveshaft.

When you connect the CAD with the wheels on the ground, you can't turn the driveshaft because neither wheel can turn. Your hand doesn't have enough force to break traction (or move the vehicle). But if you lift one wheel and REALLY put a lot of turning force on the driveshaft, the lifted wheel should rotate and the wheel on the ground should do nothing. Alternatively (and more realistically due to the favorable leverage arm of the wheel diameter), spin the lifted wheel with your hand and watch the driveshaft rotate.

While you're messing around with this stuff (just for fun), Spin the wheel by hand and count the number of driveshaft rotations for 10 full wheel rotations and report back here to get your gear ratio. Write down your gear ratio inside your glove compartment door for future reference. Tape it right on the inside of the door next to your Flat Tow checklist and tune up mileage.
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