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Unread 02-09-2013, 10:24 PM   #61
87TPIYJ
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 846
Quote:
Originally Posted by wcorp87370
Guys, what about a change of steering gear box from factory to 98-99 dodge durango steering gear box(more robust kind). Worked for me on my 96 YJ with 33s on it. Now it drives like like on rail tracks. My mod cost 170 for durango steering box from Pepboys and 150 install in the same shop. 35 to reflush the system. There was a core charge of 120 but was waived after install. Remember to order the part before install. This way you will not have issues with slightly diferent gear boxes and core refund..
That swap sounds like it could be a great upgrade. I am going to look into it. Just curious though where did you find a 96 YJ?

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87 YJ, 350 TPI, 35x12.50x17, SOA, HPD30 locked, 8.8LSD, TT
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Unread 02-09-2013, 10:31 PM   #62
PA_YJ19
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Altoona, PA
Posts: 1,101
Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubbles24

Jb kit installed, how's it look? Drove it about 15 miles. WOW what a difference. Made new drag link as well. Heading to alignment shop Monday morning.

Does it look safer, better?

Ordered new carb today. Should be here 14th or 15th MC dude off eBay. I've heard nothing but good about them so I'll give it a shot.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=65085728889
Lookin good, ur steering has got to b feelin better now. Ur angles r way better now, u should b good to go.
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Unread 02-11-2013, 11:44 AM   #63
Flajeeper1
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 726
vdubbles24, fill out the information in your profile. 2 things, the motorcraft carb is a much better choice than the original and easy to install. There is a carb rebuilder from St. Petersburg, Fl who used to sell on E-bay and is great. Guaranteed Carburetors, 7939 Ulmerton Rd, Largo, FL 33771 (727) 585-1337. As to regearing your axles, what axles are you running now? If you're running 37" tires you need to make sure the axles are strong enough.
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Unread 02-12-2013, 06:42 AM   #64
vdubbles24
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Grandview, Indiana
Posts: 186
Took my gauge cluster out and cleaned it. Got my oil, temp, and clock workin. But the fuel gauge is still pegging on full. From what I read its a bad ground. Where is it grounded, can I by pass it and make a direct ground from guage?

Thanks
Brandon

How long it take to get jeepforum.com sticker, just curious.
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Unread 02-12-2013, 09:45 AM   #65
pete1991YJ
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Niagara Falls, NY
Posts: 1,661
Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubbles24 View Post
Took my gauge cluster out and cleaned it. Got my oil, temp, and clock workin. But the fuel gauge is still pegging on full. From what I read its a bad ground. Where is it grounded, can I by pass it and make a direct ground from guage?

Thanks
Brandon

How long it take to get jeepforum.com sticker, just curious.
Yes you can and should ground wherever possible. The jeep wiring and grounds are *notorious* at best.

The dash cluster on mine ultimately was grounded on a bracket down by the distributor. If you have that one, you may want to carefully check all the wires and terminals going into that ground point. Other common places are up behind the E-brake pedal.

You can just run a fresh wire into anyplace on the dash with a sheetmetal screw, its all metal. The ground point on the tank itself is a steel tab spotwelded onto the top of the sender unit. Lots of people trace the wire from that and just run another one up into the taillight housing.
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Unread 02-12-2013, 02:28 PM   #66
mustanggarage
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: atlantic, iowa
Posts: 181
Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubbles24 View Post
Took my gauge cluster out and cleaned it. Got my oil, temp, and clock workin. But the fuel gauge is still pegging on full. From what I read its a bad ground. Where is it grounded, can I by pass it and make a direct ground from guage?

Thanks
Brandon

How long it take to get jeepforum.com sticker, just curious.
I admittedly normally work on mustangs as my user name implies however I was under the impression the jeep gauge works the same as the mustang. so this is more in the nature of a question.

in the mustang there is a constant positive voltage going into the gauge and it has a variable ground through the sending unit. so if there is a short in the sending unit wire or the sending unit itself the gauge will read pegged full. if there is a short in the positive wire it will read pegged empty.

is this the way the jeep gauge works? if so then I would say your problem is a broken or shorted sending unit wire. the easy way to test it is to remove the sending unit wire from the gauge it should then read empty. then ground it and it should read full. then you can track the problem from there, either bad wire or sending unit. or bad ground from sending unit/tank to frame.

if that is not how the jeep gauge works could somebody enlighten me please?

thanks.
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Unread 02-12-2013, 04:39 PM   #67
pete1991YJ
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustanggarage View Post
I admittedly normally work on mustangs as my user name implies however I was under the impression the jeep gauge works the same as the mustang. so this is more in the nature of a question.

in the mustang there is a constant positive voltage going into the gauge and it has a variable ground through the sending unit. so if there is a short in the sending unit wire or the sending unit itself the gauge will read pegged full. if there is a short in the positive wire it will read pegged empty.

is this the way the jeep gauge works? if so then I would say your problem is a broken or shorted sending unit wire. the easy way to test it is to remove the sending unit wire from the gauge it should then read empty. then ground it and it should read full. then you can track the problem from there, either bad wire or sending unit. or bad ground from sending unit/tank to frame.

if that is not how the jeep gauge works could somebody enlighten me please?

thanks.
On the jeep, if any one gauge stays pegged its almost a 100% bet that a ground is bad.
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Unread 02-12-2013, 06:14 PM   #68
vdubbles24
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Grandview, Indiana
Posts: 186
K so I've sold of a project have some $$$$ to invest in the yj.

You'll have seen what I'm dealin with. Before I invest the money I need help on knowing what to buy. I wanna do gears, axles, BJs, u joints, everything drive train.

This is a daily driver, no extreme off roading. Running the 37x14.50x15s I got em might as well use them. I'm pretty sure all suspension is stock. I read 4.88s are the gears I need. Front drive shaft is out so having one made locally. I got it when I bought it 2 weeks. But it's shaped like a banana. Lol

So please point me in right direction. Wanna spend the $$$$ right the first time.

List

Axles
Gears
U joints
Ball joints
Speaker bar
Head unit
Clutch/ pressure plate kit

Thought about trying this instead if stock cluster, any feed back?

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/mts-gau...jgpa8790b.html

The list of small stuff is endless. I really appreciate the advice mainly on gears and axles.
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Unread 02-12-2013, 08:20 PM   #69
pete1991YJ
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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If you are gonna run 37's then be prepared to step up to the big boy axles or else break a lot of parts. I would at least put 3/4 tons under there if that was the plan. Get a pair from something like a 1979 F-250.
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Unread 02-12-2013, 09:00 PM   #70
vdubbles24
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Grandview, Indiana
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The stock axles will work just for dd and back roads correct?
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Unread 02-12-2013, 10:26 PM   #71
vdubbles24
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Grandview, Indiana
Posts: 186
Super 35 kit for rear maybe......
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Unread 02-12-2013, 11:36 PM   #72
skyj
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Helena, MT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubbles24 View Post
Super 35 kit for rear maybe......
Waste of money! Do a Ford 8.8 and be done with it.
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build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/skyj-eccentric-build-1467426/ '90 YJ 5.2 magnum MPI, AX15, NP231 SYE, Dana 30 4.56 open/ 8.8 4.56 detriot locker. 1" shackles
2" BL, 4" stretch all on saggy waggy springs.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 01:27 AM   #73
beemerkid
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Kodiak, AK
Posts: 120
You seem like a mechanical guy, Ill bet an 8.8 swap is within your ability. Even for a DD and back road runner I would put a rear axle at the top of the list. Many people, myself included have broken at least shafts, or grenaded the differential on the dana 35, even with near stock size tires. Your 37's are a time bomb. There are lots of 8.8 swap threads around, or you can go from pretty simple to full blown with ECGS.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 05:39 AM   #74
vdubbles24
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Grandview, Indiana
Posts: 186
What vehicle the 8.8 common in? Is it a swap you could complete on a Sunday?
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Unread 02-13-2013, 08:05 AM   #75
pete1991YJ
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Niagara Falls, NY
Posts: 1,661
Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubbles24 View Post
The stock axles will work just for dd and back roads correct?
Wrong, nope. The stock axles (especially the rear) are pretty weak with anything more than 33's. The stock rear axle is known to break with stock tires on the street, without even going offroad.

There isn't any kit that will make them strong enough for 37's, but you might run 35's with the front well-built. It's pushing your luck tho. Like others have said, the rear simply isn't worth putting any money into, period.

You can get a ford 8.8 rear out of an Explorer, 1996 and up. Much stronger, you should be able to safely run 35's then for dd and back roads. If you spend the $$ on alloy axle shafts instead of the stock steel parts, then you can even wheel it pretty hard offroad.

Regardless of using alloy or stock shafts, I do recommend some type of locker either in the front or rear.
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