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Unread 03-09-2013, 06:16 PM   #136
vdubbles24
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A buddy of mine said pull valve cover and clean top end up. Any truth to that?

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Unread 03-09-2013, 06:28 PM   #137
pete1991YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubbles24 View Post
A buddy of mine said pull valve cover and clean top end up. Any truth to that?
Yes, quite a lot of truth. You will be amazed at how all the gunk clogs the baffles under there. They put baffles under each thing in the valve cover and they tend to get baked-on gunk. Sometimes up to a half-inch thick or more. Get some solvent, scrapers, brushes and rags, clean it and route the lines properly when you put it all back together. If the PCV valve doesn't rattle, it's shot - new one is only 2.99
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Unread 03-10-2013, 05:57 PM   #138
vdubbles24
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Could the gunk and pcv have any affect on my oil pressure?
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Unread 03-10-2013, 07:57 PM   #139
pete1991YJ
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Could the gunk and pcv have any affect on my oil pressure?
Possible but not likely. The number-one thing that determines oil pressure is the condition of the bearings and the condition of the pump itself. Mine is over 50 PSI on the highway, and 30 PSI idling when hot. Which is *really* good for an original engine that is 22 yrs old!.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 08:13 PM   #140
vdubbles24
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Well I figured out what my oil pressure problem is. No oil, yeah I know. I changed the oil not to long ago, checked it several times for the first week of owning it. Looked good. Jeep leaks a tad leaves a quarter size spot. Anyhow I posted a new thread about missing oil. Come to the conclusion I need some parts and a weekend to tear it down.

Gonna replace

Head gasket
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal

While tranny is out I also have a new clutch, pp, throw out bearing.

So with the list of parts I'm lookin into I'm gonna have the head checked while its all apart, anyone have a general idea of cost for head work?

Thought about replacing il pump while I was replacing oil pan gasket. What would it hurt, how bad is it to replace?
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Unread 03-13-2013, 08:14 PM   #141
vdubbles24
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Oh yeah topped off oil and holds steady 40-45 psi
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Unread 03-13-2013, 09:03 PM   #142
plym49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubbles24 View Post
Well I figured out what my oil pressure problem is. No oil, yeah I know. I changed the oil not to long ago, checked it several times for the first week of owning it. Looked good. Jeep leaks a tad leaves a quarter size spot. Anyhow I posted a new thread about missing oil. Come to the conclusion I need some parts and a weekend to tear it down.

Gonna replace

Head gasket
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal

While tranny is out I also have a new clutch, pp, throw out bearing.

So with the list of parts I'm lookin into I'm gonna have the head checked while its all apart, anyone have a general idea of cost for head work?

Thought about replacing il pump while I was replacing oil pan gasket. What would it hurt, how bad is it to replace?
Why are you replacing the head gasket? Unless I missed something, you are not losing coolant due to a blown head gasket, nor do you have low (like zero) compression in two adjacent cylinders.

You are opening yourself up to something else going wrong - like breaking a manifold bolt - for no reason.

The most common oil leak locations are: rear main seal, fuel pump, front seal, valve cover. Other places can leak but those are the most common. The oil pan gasket usually does not leak but gets renewed as part of replacing the RMS.

I would rather see you replace your front seal and replace the timing chain while you are at it as opposed to pulling the head.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 09:08 PM   #143
vdubbles24
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Originally Posted by plym49 View Post
Why are you replacing the head gasket? Unless I missed something, you are not losing coolant due to a blown head gasket, nor do you have low (like zero) compression in two adjacent cylinders.

You are opening yourself up to something else going wrong - like breaking a manifold bolt - for no reason.

The most common oil leak locations are: rear main seal, fuel pump, front seal, valve cover. Other places can leak but those are the most common. The oil pan gasket usually does not leak but gets renewed as part of replacing the RMS.

I would rather see you replace your front seal and replace the timing chain while you are at it as opposed to pulling the head.
I got input from another post. I started new thread instead of adding to this one.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/w...s-oil-1492520/ check out the info I got here.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 09:17 PM   #144
skyj
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And why are you pulling the tranny did I miss something?? You dont need to pull the tranny to replace rear main seal. Unless your clutch is toast.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 09:21 PM   #145
vdubbles24
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Clutch is in need of replacement soon. Have new one in box in building.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 09:43 PM   #146
plym49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubbles24 View Post
I got input from another post. I started new thread instead of adding to this one.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/w...s-oil-1492520/ check out the info I got here.
I read your other thread and I disagree with the conclusion that you have a head gasket problem and with the suggestion that you change your head gasket.

RMS, oil pan, fuel pump and valve cover - look there. In saying this I assume that your front seal is not leaking (front seal leaks can telegraph to the back, but down low).

When you pull your valve cover you will find it completely gunked up inside. Then mint out your PCV system.

Remember that the head gasket only sees oil drainback. That is not pressurized oil. It is oil gravity flowing back down to the sump. If your head gasket could not handle gravity oil drainback, it would not be sealing combustion pressure and/or pressurized coolant.

It is normal for these engines to occasionally show some condensation ("milkshake") at the very bottom of the dip stick. It is caused by the oil and crankcase not getting hot enough to evaporate the condensation that naturally forms as a warm motor cools. This phenomenon is very dependent on ambient temperature, humidity and short driving cycles. The cure is wait for spring, or drive the vehicle long enough and under a high enough load for the crankcase to get warm enough for all the moisture to evaporate (and be drawn out by your PCV system - a marginal PCV system naturally exacerbates this problem).

Cliff's version: don't waste your time changing the head gasket.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 10:03 PM   #147
vdubbles24
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Plym49 makes perfect sense I'll go this route and see how it goes. Thank you
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Unread 03-13-2013, 10:08 PM   #148
plym49
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Plym49 makes perfect sense I'll go this route and see how it goes. Thank you
NP; good luck with it.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 10:37 PM   #149
Que89YJ
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You always run the test before doing major work like a head gasket. The tools can be borrowed from any major parts store. x2 with what he said. Clean and test first.
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Unread 03-14-2013, 07:20 AM   #150
pete1991YJ
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I'm glad Plym49 and Que caught this. Don't bother with the head gasket, you'll only open yourself up to grief. Rather, the oil pan and valve cover gaskets, front cover seal and rear main seal. Be sure to totally clean out inside the oil pan and valve cover while you're at it.

One other leak location: the oil pressure sender, down by the distributor. Has one wire coming out of it. Make sure its screwed in tight enough, or use some teflon tape on it. Typically the entire back half of the block on the passenger side gets coated with oil from a steady drip there. You never see it on the road because the oil gets gunked onto the block and stays there - cuz it gets blasted and baked on by the fan, heat, dirt, etc.
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