I'm installing a Zone 2 inch lift on my '94 YJ. I need a torque wrench. I have never used one. Could someone suggest one and where to get it? Also, the instructions don't say anything about leaving the track bar off. I thought I'd read on here to not re-install it(???). Thanks
Pretty much any auto parts store sells them I believe. They're simple to operate all you have to do is turn the handle to the indicator of appropriate number of pounds, lock it, then tighten until it "pops and clicks".
Pull the collar up when adjusting the setting. They are very easy to use. Most places have clicker style, like the instructions above are for, or bending beam style which is a long breaker bar with a face on the end and another thinner pointer on it. As you pull the arm, the bar deflects and the pointer points to the amount of torque you are applying. Most people prefer clicker type wrenches though because of how easy they are to use.
You will probably need a foot pound wrench instead of an inch pound wrench but read your lift instructions and make sure so you get the proper type of torque wrench with a large enough range to cover all the specs you have to reach
I don't feel like working on anything, at this time.
I use an inch pound or a foot pound torque wrench almost daily, and sometimes both.
IMO the Harbor Freight ones are nearly useless. They drift ALOT and tend to wear out real quick if you don't return them to zero every time between uses. I bought into the theory that; "hey, I don't use it much, so as long as I'm not using it much, it should be okay & last". I'm here to tell you that that theory will get you in trouble if you remotely count on the thing being accurate.
When I said earlier that they drift ALOT - here's an example:
I was using a new HF inch pound to torque down a set of 36 bolt beadlocks. That's 180 bolts total on a set of 5 wheels. On average, each wheel will take 5 or 6 complete tightening sequences to get them so that they are torqued down properly. In other words, 5 x 36 x 5 or 6 = 900 to 1,080.
After "torquing them down" I went back to check to see what the differences were between bolts using a "quality torque wrench" not the HF stuff. I saw a difference of between 12-28 inch lbs where the torque wrench itself was set to 18 inch pounds. IMO that's completely unsatisfactory.
The Craftsmens are pretty good. Keep an eye out for Sears tool coupons/specials.
If you live near Lowes the Kobalt brand torque wrenches are affordable and much better than the HF ones. Check online if youd like to order one.
Most major auto parts stores also rent tools. You pay the price of the tool as a deposit then can return the tool for your deposit back. That is an option if you dont want to spend $100 on a torque wrench right now.
As others have said, leave trac bars off. If you are worried about on highway stability, leave swaybars on but still remove trac bars. Trac bars are not necessary on a leaf sprung vehicle. The trac bar essentially aims at keeping the axle centered under the rig while flexing. Its necessary on a TJ that is coil sprung because the coils have no lateral stability.
Craftsman torque wrenches only carry a years warrenty.
If you buy one hang on to the reciept.
One of mine bit the bullet when I was doing my bead locks, it was less than a year old and I did not have a reciept.
93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list. www.mijc.org
I picked up a Craftsman one Sears for ~$40 when it was on sale. Funny story actually, bought an In/lb wrench by accident for ~$80, returned it the next day, found out they were on sale almost decided to walk out with both the in/lb and ft/lb wrenches with the money I made from the return,
Never really used mine until this weekend while helping a friend replace the transmission in his Mini cooper. Probably didn't really need to use it on every bolt we could but it was a fun way to try the thing out.