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Torn on radiator choices

2K views 40 replies 16 participants last post by  vadslram 
#1 ·
Could use some advice.

My factory installed MOPAR radiator is finally giving up the ghost after 24 some-odd years of faithful service. It was full of brown and muck (it sat for 9 years or so) and even though I knew what would happen...I flushed it. Yup. Meow it's leaking.

After searching and searching...And finding several answers...I figured I'd just ask.

'94 4.0 with automatic (so I need one with trans cooling). I can't seem to find an actual OEM replacement that's not some garbage brand. I know @Chrisnvegas had some awesomesauce new one he put in, but I don't see a brand or link to what it was.

I'll also be replacing the water pump because I'll be right there, and my experience tells me that those ALWAYS fail right after new radiator installs lol...Along with new upper and lower hoses and whatever else I come across. Most likely do the heater core as well (have to drop all that to fix my AC anyway) fairly soonish.

Soooo...What sayeth the experts? Just get a NAPA aloominium and call it a day, or spend some good money on an aftermarket solution?
 
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#4 ·
My purdy radiator is a one-off hand built prototype.
Then the company decided it was too expensive and wouldn't sell. I called them looking for more last year.

I still have my original Mopar sitting in a box somewhere.
It was rebuilt by Al's Radiator and was about a hundred bucks.
Looks brand new.
Well, Al retired.

Those radiators up there ^^^ will probably work fine as long as everything else is proper (fan clutch/water pump/t-stat)

The original Mopar radiator was contracted to Silla and they supplied the factory.
The fan clutch was contracted to AC/Delco

Are there any old radiator shops still around where you live? (Like Al's Radiator)
If there are, give em' a call and see if they can rebuild yours for a reasonable price.

The original is copper/brass.
I like them because they can be repaired, on trail if necessary with a small torch and solder.
(Years ago, when lead was being removed from solder, I went out and bought all I could of flux core.
It should last for my natural life) new solder sucks.

Anyway, if you wanna get fancy, Champion makes a purdy radiator that will cool a YJ on planet Mercury.
Rated to 350 horsepower.

http://www.championradiators.com/Jeep/Wrangler/Radiator-2-Row-1987-2006
 
#11 ·
Seems like the Champion should do me good.

The factory radiator is pretty beat up and dented. I don't know that it can be repaired. I'll look closer when I remove it (probably this weekend).

If you want in cheap, RockAuto.com has several choices in the $75-$80 range. Nothing spectacular, and probably all Chinese origin. Definitely all plastic tanks/aluminum core. The Spectra Premium/Cooling Depot one someone posted the AutoZone link to (for $137.xx) is $77.79 before discount and shipping at RockAuto.

I've run the Spectra Premium/Cooling Depot rads on several other applications, and as long as you're not bouncing it too hard off road, they run for several years relatively trouble free for street use.

Their prices are good on the other parts as well. You can get an extra 5% off if you enter 6677731948874231 in the "How Did You Hear About Us? " line at the bottom of your shopping cart.

You mentioned water pump, I'd also recommend:

  • fan clutch (a must replace when replacing the water pump)
  • thermostat, STANT 45359 "SuperStat," stock temp
  • Radiator cap (might be included with the radiator, but I prefer a known quantity Stant cap)
  • heater hoses, actually all the hoses. Not sure if the 4.0 I6 has a bypass hose or any other ancillary coolant hoses, but if it's rubber and carries coolant, replace it.
  • Obviously fresh coolant of the appropriate type
  • It's a good time to put on a new serpentine belt, tensioner and related goodies. You've got it off, if it's old, it's just dumb to put the old worn belt back on.
Was planning on doing most of that anyway. I've never replaced a major component of a cooling system without another part failing shortly thereafter LOL. Hadn't thought of the tensioner though.

Thanks for the replies all. I'll probably go with the Champion :cheers:
 
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#5 ·
If you want in cheap, RockAuto.com has several choices in the $75-$80 range. Nothing spectacular, and probably all Chinese origin. Definitely all plastic tanks/aluminum core. The Spectra Premium/Cooling Depot one someone posted the AutoZone link to (for $137.xx) is $77.79 before discount and shipping at RockAuto.

I've run the Spectra Premium/Cooling Depot rads on several other applications, and as long as you're not bouncing it too hard off road, they run for several years relatively trouble free for street use.

Their prices are good on the other parts as well. You can get an extra 5% off if you enter 6677731948874231 in the "How Did You Hear About Us? " line at the bottom of your shopping cart.

You mentioned water pump, I'd also recommend:

  • fan clutch (a must replace when replacing the water pump)
  • thermostat, STANT 45359 "SuperStat," stock temp
  • Radiator cap (might be included with the radiator, but I prefer a known quantity Stant cap)
  • heater hoses, actually all the hoses. Not sure if the 4.0 I6 has a bypass hose or any other ancillary coolant hoses, but if it's rubber and carries coolant, replace it.
  • Obviously fresh coolant of the appropriate type
  • It's a good time to put on a new serpentine belt, tensioner and related goodies. You've got it off, if it's old, it's just dumb to put the old worn belt back on.
 
#9 ·
The Spectra Premium radiator is kinda like blind date IMO. You may hit it off just fine, but if you don't it goes bad pretty fast. What I mean is that I have had one fail within 6 months - admittedly after a Rubicon Trail trip with lots of bouncing and hard drop offs as Racer-X stated - and another one go bad within 1 day, the plastic top failed nearly same day.

Had I saved $50 and bought it from RockAuto, I would have had to have purchased the replacement radiator from them, then mail them the bad radiator on RMA for a refund/credit. All of it taking the Jeep out of commission for at least 3 days and my money even longer. Ask me how I know.

My daughters YJ was a 2.5l. It had a Spectra Premium rad in it for about 5 years. Nothing wrong with it at all. When I did the 4.0 swap, I wanted a new Rad. Wanted, not needed. Michaelgoesrawr stop reading here please.

I drained hers, removed it, walked into AZ with it, they pulled up the purchase on the computer from 4 years ago (no receipt) and handed me a new one in a box, and said Thank you for shopping at AZ.

If you are gonna go cheap, go cheap from a place that will give you the best warranty and service. I put all Mopar parts (except the actual fan) on my LJ, but it was not cheap. I believe for the type of wheeling I do (or used to do - damn bills got me busting as and missing trails) dictated I get a Rad that would hold up. My kid, shes daily driver and less hardcore trails, so the spectra is working out fine. BTW, she is in Idaho. If her rad fails, she can walk into ANY AZ and get it replaced under warranty.

my 2 cents.
 
#8 ·
Had the all brass radiator that was in the Jeep spring a leak within a year of having it rebuilt for $80, 7 miles up a forest road at 1am in the morning in sub freezing temperature spraying the accessory belts in coolant causing the alternator to slip and dim the lights, once I got back to paved road the drive home was fine but the 7 miles of gravel sucked driving by with dim/no head lights. Next day I bought a $138 plastic tanked aluminum radiator from the local autoparts store and it has been trouble free for the last 4 years, even running full throttle up a mountain pass in 3rd at 70mph in 80 degree weather. FWIW most of the aftermarket radiators are for automatics vehicles and you just leave the trans lines unhooked when installing into a manual vehicle.

Good news is the old brass radiator was worth $15 to the tweakers at the scrap metal place.
 
#10 ·
Interesting comments.

For more severe duty, the Champion radiator that @Chrisnvegas linked to is a good choice. I haven't used them in Jeeps, but I have used them in race cars with fairly severe (solid) mounts and suspension bushings. They handle the bumps and vibration much better than any plastic tanks crimped on an aluminum core.

The Champions are pretty widely available as well, Amazon, Jegs, Summit Racing all carry them.
 
#13 ·
I've read your posts on that. I wish I could dedicate a weekend to it. It'll be more like dedicate two hours on Saturday, 30 minutes on Sunday, then pick at it for the rest of next week LOL

Do the tensioners go bad? I'd not really seen that until this post.
 
#14 ·
Which tensioner? The pulley by the alternator?
Mine is still original.
Hasn't failed yet and is easy to replace anytime.
So you're a busy guy. I understand that. I work 4-10s so I have lots of time now.
 
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#15 ·
Since you're building a list of stuff to replace when tearing into a radiator that's been plumbed for 20 something years, go ahead and source/plan your transmission line attachments. Mine were a quick-disconnect retaining-ring type things. I found some kind of GM adapter after searching on here that worked.
 
#17 ·
Trans lines were leaking when I first got it running. So they're mostly new now. I have about 20 feet of line and connectors in a box and I aint afraid of using them :D

I've also got to replumb my aux trans cooler. those things are looking turrble.

Disclaimer: I did not read whats above but...

I was in the same place as you-- wanted a full metal replacement- brass and copper-- just like the factory one that lasted me 27 years.

look at Performance Radiator -- emblem with a cactus on it

Brad
Thanks.
 
#20 ·
Nah. I safely dump that stuff into the ditch on the neighbor's property. Everybody hates that guy anyway.
 
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#29 ·
It's been at least 6 or 7 years ago I replaced all of the parts in my cooling system. I just used parts from Napa. I can't remember the brand of the radiator but I'm sure it was an offshore built part. Like I said it's been over 6 years and the system has been trouble free and works perfectly with no cooling problems.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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#31 ·
GAH.

After waiting a couple of weeks for my Amazon ordered (through Jegs) radiator...It shows up yesterday with a big hole in the box and two places where the fins are damaged.

S
O
B



 

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#32 ·
FWIW - I went with the Champion 3 core and never looked back. I made sure I got it from a source that said it would honor the lifetime warranty. It went in easily, looks good, was a reasonable price, and works as advertised. The only oddity was that there is one mounting hole that does not line up with the stock mounting location. Not sure why. I saw a review where another person noted the same thing. He also had a 1988, so I suspect a hole was moved in the YJs with 4.0 engines. Not sure.

David
 
#34 ·
I was thinking of Autozone...But I was doing a big order through Amazon and just threw it in there. I rarely have issues with this stuff (90% of my Jeep parts came through them while I was rebuilding this thing and this is the first issue I've had).

I have like $40 in rewards at Autozone...Guess I'll put 'em to use :D
 
#35 ·
It works for me on the projects I do because they stand behind their warranty - almost to a fault - and just mindlessly replace any part I bring in that they can find I've previously ordered. You know how many parts are interchangeable between YJs XJs and even TJs? I haven't purchased a new set of brake pads in years, yet every jeep has new brake pads....

All that said, on my DD I used MOPAR Rad and related parts from the Stealership..:wink2:
 
#38 ·
The knowledgeable staff thing is location-specific. One of the local O'Reilly's is staffed almost entirely by CJ owners. They know their stuff. Closest Autozone to me is almost all import guys. Some good, some bad.

That said, I generally try to have part numbers ready before I walk in the door :D
 
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#39 ·
I'll add my vote to that pile. My local store has a manager that knows cars. He remembers what I have whenever I go in there and we have fine discussions.

One of his 'kids', however, argued with me on the size of my engine because the computer didn't show a 258 engine in a 1988 Wrangler. It only showed a 4.2L. :/ I had to explain to him the different systems to measure volumetric capacity of cylinders and what country he was standing in. Then, I turned the screen and showed him where another column said '258' if he had just expended enough energy to slew his eyes an inch to the right. He got surly after that.

Hit and miss these days.

David
 
#41 ·
I went to radiator.com and had one the same day. It's an Inet company that locally sources so you may have different luck than I did. Mine was a plastic tank copper tubed and ended unit. That was ~8 yrs ago and it is still running cool.
The big thing to remember on using plastic tanks is to NEVER let me repeat that for effect NEVER use worm screw clamps on the hoses.
Spring clamps may look like they aren't as tight but short of explosive pressures they are just fine. A band clamp doesn't move with the heat so when the engine heats up it puts uneven pressure on the necks, eventually cracking them.
 
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