I bought a 1987 Jeep Wrangler a couple months ago (my first car) and I have been learning all about the fun of the Carter BBD. (Before I bought the Jeep, I didn't know anything about cars - I never even pumped my own gas) Making the car more interesting, I bought it from an idiot up in Maine, who put in a manual choke, and seems to have done some emissions modifications. Just yesterday I figured out that the idle speed solenoid was disconnected, and plugged it in, and I also realized that the stepper motor was not working (pins seem to be stuck in full rich or lean, don't know which is which.) Also, the hot air intake tube to the air cleaner is not there anymore.
My Jeep also refuses to run well in wet weather, stalling whenever she idles. I've got real good at braking with my left foot, but I'm looking for a better solution.
Anyway, my questions are:
What should I do about the stepper motor?
Where does the hot air intake tube run to? (It is the tube that comes out of the bottom of the part of the air cleaner that juts out toward the front driver's side corner)
How hard would it be to replace the manual choke with an automatic one?
Also, any tips about rebuilding the Carter BBD? I only get 7 miles per gallon, so I think I might need to.
Sorry for being so long winded. Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give!
1987 YJ 4.2L - 31x10.5s, locking ammo box center console, nice stereo in the works, and a lift, once I get some money!
Sounds like the guy you got if from did the Nutter Bypass on it. If so, there will be 2 wires comming off the distributor going to the ignition module bypassing the computer. You can just hook up the 2 original wires going to the computer and hope the computer is working. If the computer wasnt bad the rich lean thing will move in and out when you rev up the motor. If you wanna have some fun with it, put a 4.0l high output head and exaust headers and a good cam in her and eat the 4.0l yjs for lunch every day! If carb is shot get a webber. Hope you dont have to smog it though. I just put bfg ta 32 inch tires on mine. It had 3:07 gears so I changed them to 4:10s to accomidate the 5.5inch lift and bigger tires. If you choose to beef up the motor, be carefull not to blow out the transmission or rear end. The torque you can achive from the 4.2 with a few mods is insane. I can roast the 32 11:50s in first and second and get a nice chirp outta 3rd gear but its eating up my transmission. Mine has to peugot 5 speed, which I think is a weak tranny. I got the money for lockers, but I think im gunna get a stronger rear end first. The dana 35 seems pretty weak also. Anyway, have fun with it
89 YJ Islander, AC,PS, 10 inch lift, 32 BFG MT's, sway quick disconnect, rear track bar quick disconnect, 400 watt 12 speaker cd player for tunes,8000lb warn 8274 with 150 ft cable, and a high lift jack.. Lockers, 35's, webber carb and jacobs ignition comming soon.
Last I checked my 89 4.2L was a YJ. As for the carb preheater hose, "hot air intake hose", the hose I believe you are asking about is about 2" in diameter and runs from the bottom of the air filter snorkel down to the exhaust manifold. A word of advice to you. While you are digging around under the air cleaner and around the carb, buy youself 6FT of vacuum hose and some larger pcv hose and replace the old hoses. From my experience impropper crank case ventillation causes the old hose to clog with sludge and causes vacuum problems. Just a thought.
Wheelin down lifes highway, aimin for the potholes!!!!
At the body shop for resto
Waiting for Mods
PICS to come
Ok, do yourself a favor and forget about the hot air tube thing...Its just a peice of worthless aluminum bendy tubing that made things look even more complicated than they are. As for the rest of the carb, junk it. I know this is not what you want to hear, but its true. The carter carb is junk, I dont think it ran right from the factory. You will be hard pressed to find any affordable, quality rebuild for that thing. Even then so, that computer controlled mixture crap is, well, crap. It never works for what you're doing, and will forever be a jeep's downfall. The "john nutter bypass" is also a crock of it as well. It is just some dude who got a bright idea about disabling the mixture control, in all cases i've dealt with, making it run worse and not adapting to varying conditions. Nutter is good if you live in the sahara where it rains every ten years, but you dont. With changing weather comes changing barometric pressuses and air density, which affects the mixture, thats why carter developed this thing to begin with. as for the choke, leave it manual unless you want to get even better at braking with your left foot. The chokes ALWAYS stuck, causing high idle. Even if you knocked the idle down, on a warm day when the choke decided to unstick, you would stall at every stop sign. Do yourself a favor and drop the $450 for a weber. It will eliminate all of that mess under your hood. Face it: none of those vaccuum lines will ever be right again, so when you put the new carb on rip em off except for egr, disrtibutor advance, 4x4, and maybe a few others. I did everything with my carter from "nutter" bypass, to new gaskets, to drilling out the idle tubes, to using gallons of carb cleaner. I decided to get the weber when i was at the bank one day and had to shut my motor off cause it was idling at like 3 grand, when i did, it diesled so bad, backfire, squeal, everyone was looking and it was the most embarrassing day of my life. The weber saved me, as it will you too. afterward i literally beat my old carb with an axe. I recommend you do the same.
A few more things: if you'r serious about getting this thing to run right again and do get a weber, one other "fun" mod you could do is hollow out your cat. Carb'd jeeps never pass emissions anyway, ask any inspection. About the only thing you could do to pass is a good tune up, add marvel mystery oil to premium gas, and tune the carb for emmissions. the car will run terrible all the way to the inspection station, but you could change that in the parking lot after you pass. If your car is running rich (black smoke, not blue, although blue smoke is bad too if blue smoke dont bother with anything except an engine) then your cat is clogged anyway and is stunting your engines breathing. The weber is sooo badass too, under light throttle it has this air sucking noise that is pretty intimidating to pedestrians. Under heavy acceleration it gives this really mean "throaty" note that makes you drive like an animal pretty much all the time. Don't worry about a cam, or exaust or anything else now cause your motor cant handle it. worry about that stuff when its time for a rebuild...your trans cant handle it anyway. after many a burnout, clutch drop, power shift, you name it, my peugeot trans (which is what you have) finally blew last month. so dont drive like an *** ALL the time like me. Also, my jeep beat a newer 4.0 jeep, and i couldnt even hook up at first i was just spinnin wheels in first. I have been able to break the rear end loose pretty much on command shifting to third. This is a real worth while investment regardless of your driving style.
Roachen, u got that much of a power difference jsut fromt he carb??? I do a lot of driving in the mountains and when I hit a long steep upgrade, my Jeep gets ridiculous. I think it doesn't get enough air either, because one day it ended up going so ****ING slow that I pulled over and right as I stopped it, it stalled. I think flooded. How does the weber carb do in those long uphill situations that all of us with big tires and a stock 4.2 and stock gearing feel?
89YJ. '97 4.0HO, 4" lift, 33" General Grabbers, Header, no cat, glasspack AR rims
Zeke, before you get so discouraged that you just sell the Jeep, let me give you my 2 cents. Roachen may be a "little sour" about the Carter carb, but believe it or not, it can run well enough to get you by (that being said, I've owned mine for four years and I think it has taken that long to get it just right!!). His comments about the emissions stuff are probably more important, though. I've removed nearly everything including the cat. converter, but you need to get a service manual like Chiltons or Haynes and really study what does what if you don't want to upgrade to the Weber. Otherwise, you can remove the wrong thing, etc. and it won't run worth a crap. You mention that this is your first car and that you don't know much about working on cars in general. Therefore, I would suggest that you try to find a guy with a Jeep like yours if at all possible and compare where all of the vacuum lines, etc. go. There's not much more I can say for any encouragement. For the metering rods to work, they need the computer, and therefore it needs all of its inputs working to make it function correctly. BTW, screw that hot air pipe altogether, and if that manual choke will give you an fast idle when engaged, stick with it. My automatic choke can be a pain in the a**, and I live in Florida! If you plan to put off the Weber for now, a rebuild for the Carter would surely help and it's fairly cheap. If you don't have anyone to help you, though, just pay close attention because there's a lot of parts in there!
Currently an '86 CJ-7 and a '77 CJ-7 Golden Eagle---#4 and 5 following a '01 Sahara, '90 Sahara, and '85 CJ-7....