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Unread 06-08-2013, 09:44 PM   #16
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Does it need to be grounded, Larry? Its just a continuation of the hot wire going to the light which should be grounded behind the dash.


Dake: did you have to cut the shaft for the SYE at all?
Yes I did

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Unread 06-08-2013, 09:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Does it need to be grounded, Larry? Its just a continuation of the hot wire going to the light which should be grounded behind the dash.


Dake: did you have to cut the shaft for the SYE at all?
You know, it may not need that. I make a habit of testing parts that reside in a grounded position in, well, a grounded position. Good catch though. I still think he'll find his problem at the connector. I had to bomb mine with dielectric grease to get the connector to seat correctly.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 10:00 PM   #18
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I had to pack dielectric grease for mine to work too. I think I mentioned something about it in the write up.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 10:01 PM   #19
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You know, it may not need that. I make a habit of testing parts that reside in a grounded position in, well, a grounded position. Good catch though. I still think he'll find his problem at the connector. I had to bomb mine with dielectric grease to get the connector to seat correctly.
Did you get it to snap down? I don't think mine is down far enough to do so. It has a lot of DC4 on it to get it that far.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 10:05 PM   #20
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Did you get it to snap down? I don't think mine is down far enough to do so. It has a lot of DC4 on it to get it that far.
Yes it did finally snap it but it took some coaxing for sure. You have the tab pointed in the right direction, right?
Yes, Nick I recall you mentioning the same thing in your write-up. The rubber skirt on the new plug doesn't want to drop right into the switch plug housing. Put a dab of grease on the skirt as well.
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What you see as not bad, and what I see as not bad, are two completely different not bads
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I am kinda partial to white.
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That's racist, Chris.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 10:14 PM   #21
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There is a little piece on the switch connector that needs to be whittled away. I will go buy another one and take better pics this go round. Also I will make sure its on my buddy Dan's jeep which has the old style switch on the firewall.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 10:23 PM   #22
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There is a little piece on the switch connector that needs to be whittled away. I will go buy another one and take better pics this go round. Also I will make sure its on my buddy Dan's jeep which has the old style switch on the firewall.
FWIW, I didn't remove any material from either the switch or the plug. It was a very snug fit but appeared to have locked in. If a trim is in order maybe you can edit that into your original write up for future users.
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What you see as not bad, and what I see as not bad, are two completely different not bads
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I am kinda partial to white.
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That's racist, Chris.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 10:43 PM   #23
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FWIW, I didn't remove any material from either the switch or the plug. It was a very snug fit but appeared to have locked in. If a trim is in order maybe you can edit that into your original write up for future users.
Im going to pull it back out and see what need to trimmed off. i'll try to get some pic's if it need to be trimmed
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Unread 06-11-2013, 09:08 PM   #24
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Ok I got the NAPA 11800 seal in today. Put the new axles in no leaks so far. The switch in the TC got it snapped on to the harness. still did not work. Took it out it works the 4X4 light by hand. I may order a new switch as the button is much shorter than the old vacuum switch.
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Unread 06-11-2013, 09:49 PM   #25
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Did the old vac switch work? Do you still have it? Perhaps you can contrast and compare the lengths.
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Unread 06-11-2013, 09:54 PM   #26
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Yes it worked and I still have it. Im going to take to the parts store to compare before I buy a new one. The one I got in their is from auto zone its for a 2000 TJ.
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Unread 06-11-2013, 09:57 PM   #27
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The tread length is the same the button sticking out in much longer on the vacuum switch.
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Unread 06-11-2013, 09:58 PM   #28
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The TJ switch is the same one I have as well. You just need a little more travel in your more shaft to activate the switch.
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Unread 06-11-2013, 10:04 PM   #29
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Look at this.
15565-md.jpg   tc-switch.jpg  
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Unread 06-11-2013, 10:08 PM   #30
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The TJ switch is the same one I have as well. You just need a little more travel in your more shaft to activate the switch.
I will try this on my next day off (after I figure out what to adjust). Thanks for all your help I'll get it sooner or later.
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