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Unread 03-13-2013, 05:30 PM   #1
Anticanman
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TJ NP231 4wd switch install

Undoubtedly your Yj has had problems with the aging 4wd vacuum lines and you've either caught them early or been caught with your pants down and been without 4wd. There are several options to fixing this problems starting with the obvious: replacing the lines. But if you've done a motor swap and don't have that vacuum access anymore or just gone to TJ shafts for the larger ujoint or chromoly for strength you would need to do something about your stock vacuum lines and lack of 4wd light.

The obvious thing to do is to look down and see where the shifter is and go from there. If you have a body lift or have lowered the transfer case the obvious might not be so obvious. So here is a recap of a cheaper alternative to the TJ shaft swap above which is just locking the e-clips over. Dodger did a great write up so I won't reinvent the wheel. Here is a link and what it should look like when locked
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/v...ap-way-788543/

Notice the configuration of the fork locked off to the side and the vacuum actuated shaft is immobile.



Now on to the electrical side of it. Yanking the vacuum hoses is easy and you only need to locate where they come out to the battery along the firewall and plug it off and discard the rest. I would show a pic but I sent the spaghetti monster to Gage.

Then comes the removal of the old vacuum switch from the transfer case but dont install the new one yet, some fitting will have to be done.Its 1/16" to remove the old one and a 7/8" for the new one. The shorter the better for end wrenches. I will ge the TJ switch number later but I remember they're $17 because I just threw away the receipt yesterday. Here it is:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52247_01.htm

Or crown # J8134473 it has a longer detent ball that will close the switch better.

Once that's in locate the rest of the wiring specifically this plug for the newer cad styles



Notice how close the pin holes are together?

It doesn't matter. Off with its head!


Strip the wires and twist them together but keep them isolated from the rest of the jeep.


Then jump inside and turn on the acc and look for this:


Next you'll need one of these



Looks like this with two wires


Go ahead and connect it to the two bare wires from the cad. Orientation doesn't matter, its a switch. Then drop the wiring all the way down and feed it over the transmission and toward the transfer case. At this point the plug didn't fit so I had to do some cutting of small tabs inside the switch area to accommodate the plug.

Now you can use the aforementioned 7/8" end wrench to install the TJ switch once you know the plug fits. When I installed it the first time it didn't work. I yanked the plug and filled every crevice with dielectric grease and plugged it back in. I cycled through the gears in the transfer case and lo and behold it worked! It just shows that checking your connections is always worth the effort.

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Unread 03-13-2013, 06:31 PM   #2
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Very nicely done, sir. Thanks for sharing!

Here's another link for the switch, cheaper and in stock.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...yword=j8134473
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Unread 04-08-2013, 06:13 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Now on to the electrical side of it. Yanking the vacuum hoses is easy and you only need to locate where they come out to the battery along the firewall and plug it off and discard the rest. I would show a pic but I sent the spaghetti monster to Gage.
And here is the Said Spaghetti Monster

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Unread 04-08-2013, 08:44 PM   #4
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Haha!!
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Unread 04-13-2013, 09:24 PM   #5
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stupid questions

So now for the stupid questions
1, so are you saying the original wires from the vacuum disconnect will reach the transfer case ?
2, is that just a plane old weatherquip 2 wire plug from NAPA ?
3, dose it have to be a TJ switch , what about a XJ 96 and up ?
4, not to get too far off subject but while I was P.N.P. yesterday I noticed sevrial older XJ's without C.A.D's ,(I thought they all had C.A.D's till 96) will those work ? will long side axels work also ?
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Unread 04-13-2013, 10:17 PM   #6
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1) Yes. They hinge at the harness at the battery and they reached just fine for me when routed as I did.

2) Its a specific plug that's why I mentioned the numbers on the package.

3) The TJ or xj switch are the same as referenced by part numbers.

4) Yes the one piece shaft goes back further than '96 but the larger ujoints are in 95+ jeeps (pretty much all 4wds) and in Cherokees with abs in years before that back to '86.

Locking over the stock collar in your Yj will have the same effect.
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Unread 04-17-2013, 07:34 PM   #7
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W

Took your pic of the pig tail to the local parts store . They matched the part number , but did not stock it . So off to Autozone I went .They had to order it also . I had them order it . it came to $17.00 seams a little steep for a weatherquip fitting . Does that sound right ? Were you able to fined one on the shelf anywhere ? no big deal just queries .
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Unread 04-17-2013, 07:50 PM   #8
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By the way how in the hell do you get the old vac switch out ???? i tried for about 2hs today and could not find a single wrench or socket to fit
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Unread 04-17-2013, 08:06 PM   #9
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Took your pic of the pig tail to the local parts store . They matched the part number , but did not stock it . So off to Autozone I went .They had to order it also . I had them order it . it came to $17.00 seams a little steep for a weatherquip fitting . Does that sound right ? Were you able to fined one on the shelf anywhere ? no big deal just queries .
I got mine from autozone and it was almost $10. $17 is way out of the ballpark.

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By the way how in the hell do you get the old vac switch out ???? i tried for about 2hs today and could not find a single wrench or socket to fit
Which vacuum switch are you talkin about? The cad comes out with the four bolts and then you can pull the housing apart by removing the clip shown all the way to the bottom around the brass fitting

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Unread 04-17-2013, 08:09 PM   #10
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Which vacuum switch are you talkin about? The cad comes out with the four bolts and then you can pull the housing apart by removing the clip shown all the way to the bottom around the brass fitting
No LOL The switch in the T-Case
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Unread 04-17-2013, 08:39 PM   #11
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Oops. Sorry. It takes a shorty 1 1/16" end wrench if you have one. It pays to have a set of wrenches that aren't the mile long Pittsburgh brand from harbor freight.
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Unread 04-17-2013, 08:50 PM   #12
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Thanks for the write up Anticanman. I collecting the parts for the axle swap and switch install. I think I got everthing but the pigtail and new ujoints
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Unread 04-18-2013, 07:15 AM   #13
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[QUOTE=Anticanman;15311654]I got mine from autozone and it was almost $10. $17 is way out of the ballpark

Dam new I should have stopped at the Manteca AutoZone on the way home from work ! Dam Bay Area Mark Up
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Unread 04-19-2013, 01:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Oops. Sorry. It takes a shorty 1 1/16" end wrench if you have one. It pays to have a set of wrenches that aren't the mile long Pittsburgh brand from harbor freight.
Were you watching me? Hahaha. I ended up using a good pair of Channel locks, came right out.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 06:00 PM   #15
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Nice write up, gonna do it this weekend
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