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Unread 11-16-2011, 06:32 PM   #46
oldtime_ironman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copleydad View Post
Hey Spencer. I was wondering about that also, the carb being clogged. As far as the 1500 rpm stutter, I was guessing it while under the hood this afternoon. It is a mild stutter, but there none the less.

I hope not, winter's coming . I don't have time to do these this year.

Have a new exhaust, front pipe back, planned for the spring, but really don't want to get involved with the manifold.

How do I check for a leak?
You're getting some good advice here. Your vacuum ain't too shabby at all - 22.5 is good. The slight variation is a bit curious.

Far as the manifolds go, I just took a flashlight and looked real close at mine. Sometimes you can see a bit of soot where it shouldn't be, around a bolt hole or a manifold tube. Easiest way is don't even bother to look - just grab a wrench and try to snug them all up anyhow. I had to do this on mine and yes it made quite a difference. Especially the bolts on the rear of the engine, those ones especially tend to work loose.

Far as the carb and idle tubes go, yeah its possible, but I'm not real familiar with the MC2100 so I can't really say a lot about it.
.

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Unread 11-16-2011, 07:02 PM   #47
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Appreciate all the advice guys. Will check these ideas out tomorrow
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Unread 11-19-2011, 03:03 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodger889 View Post
Ok at idle only mmmmm could it be the float adjustment is not correct? Now be careful in doing this look down the carb after a full warm up see if you see a drip coming from somewhere. Oh a good spot type light is great for checking this. If it does drip or if the top of the butterfly is wet then you are get close to where the problem is.
No drips, no wetness

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89yjsahara258 View Post
Just for fun try richening the mixture (loosening the idle screws) and rev the motor between each 1/4 turn adjustment. Try each idle screw independently and then move them together. I am curious if despite the fact the carb was rebuilt the idle tubes might be clogged; either one or both. Just a thought... but if the idle smooths out a bit then it might be worth opening her up.

Also, when you say there is a stutter at 1500 rpm how far is your foot to the floor? Is it less or more pronounced at WOT compared to normal "lazy" acceleration?

Spencer
Hey Spence.....tried that today, mo go. Set the screws back to 2 1/4 turns out

Quote:
Originally Posted by ctm View Post
how about an intake or exhaust manifold gasket leak. my idle was all over the place until I fixed a gasket leak.
I think we might be getting close. This morning it was around 35* so popped the hood and started her up. Seems to be some sort of exhaust leak somewhere down there. Checked the flange where the pipe ties to the manifold, wasn't leaking, so guessing it is somewhere around the manifold. Couldn't really see anything, and Ironman had to do too many errands so haven't hit the bolts with a wrench yet. Definitely gonna try and do some tightening tomorrow. Kinda surprised torque on these bolts are only like 23 lbs and 17 for 2 of them. Tonight gonna PB blast them all a few times.

Yesterday was on the highway and noticed when I take my foot off the gas doing 60mph or so (could happen faster and slower) I can hear a faint high pitched whistling sound, so gonna go out on a limb and say the gasket is bad for intake/exhaust and the whistle is a vacuum leak

Like I said, going to put a new exhaust on in the spring anyways, and was planning front pipe back, new cat and all, so kinda added a new manifold to the wish list ($175 or so ).

BUT......went on ebay when I got in about 15 minutes ago and found a used exhaust manifold and intake manifold with all the "stuff" still attached, auction ending "in 3 minutes". High bid was $.99, threw a bid of $3.00 at it and got it for $2.25 plus $20 shipping. Figure I can clean up these pieces and have them ready for the exhaust swap.

So, fellas, that's where I am. Like hunting for a needle in a big pile of needles.
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Unread 11-19-2011, 03:36 PM   #49
oldtime_ironman
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I'm betting Very Strongly that you had manifold leaks, especially with the whistle and the lumpy vacuum. FWIW I don't even bother to torque them I just winched them down tight as I could and it was good.
.
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Unread 11-20-2011, 07:27 AM   #50
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Okay, gotta say this, I love you guys.

My carburetor is now tuned absolutely perfectly. The timing is dead nuts right on. Because of all the sputtering issues and trying to nail down the problem, every remaining vacuum line is new and my engine compartment is spotless (was tired of getting grease up to my pits working on her).

Went out this morning after soaking all the intake/exhaust manifold nuts and bolts with PB Blaster last night, and started her up to re-spray with the engine hot. Sputter...... choke..... cough. Then, after spraying, let her cool down enough to mess with the bolts.

There are 9 bolts and 2 studs with nuts. Every one of them, yes, every one, was no more than finger tight. A couple were actually backed out a bit. The two at the back of the engine were almost ready to drop off.

I tightened everything down, started her up, and she purred like a happy full kitten. Reset the idle to 700rpm, and barely a shimmy at all. I'm gonna say that the gasket is probably somewhat fragged from the exhaust leaks for who knows how long, so there is a bit of shake, but nothing at all like she was.

Took her up on the highway and she got up to 75 faster than she has in a long time. Let off the gas and she quietly just coasted along. No more whistle. No bogging down. No funky jerking motion. AND she actually accelerates nicely in 5th gear! Up a hill no less! Didn't really want to get off the highway she was running so good

So, love my YJ again. Gonna fill her up and do a mpg check and see how she's doing. I wish I could buy all you guys a couple beers!!! This forum should come as standard equipment for the next generation of Jeepers when they buy their rigs.

Thanks again. You all ROCK
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Unread 11-20-2011, 07:38 AM   #51
89yjsahara258
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Awesome! I am glad you got her all fixed up. She probably is too!

Spencer
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Unread 11-20-2011, 07:41 AM   #52
oldtime_ironman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copleydad View Post
Okay, gotta say this, I love you guys.

Took her up on the highway and she got up to 75 faster than she has in a long time. Let off the gas and she quietly just coasted along. No more whistle. No bogging down. No funky jerking motion. AND she actually accelerates nicely in 5th gear! Up a hill no less! Didn't really want to get off the highway she was running so good

So, love my YJ again. Gonna fill her up and do a mpg check and see how she's doing. I wish I could buy all you guys a couple beers!!! This forum should come as standard equipment for the next generation of Jeepers when they buy their rigs.

Thanks again. You all ROCK
That's GREAT!! Told ya, vacuum leaks. Betcha your vacuum reading is way better now, why not stick the gauge on it and see what the reading is now? I bet its *way* better, and smoother. Also, what about opening your plug gap back up to 035 or 040 thereabouts. It should do just fine now.
.
.

Last edited by oldtime_ironman; 11-20-2011 at 07:47 AM.. Reason: forgot
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Unread 11-20-2011, 08:11 AM   #53
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Ironman

I'll throw the gauge on her later on and check. Plugs are already gapped to .035, did that when I put them back in the 5th or 6th time the other day.

But for now, I'm gonna take Otis for a ride to the beach and let him chase sticks, balls and birds, and one final dip in the ocean before the snow starts flying (him, not me). Supposed to hit the mid 60's today, and I feel like going for a nice smooth ride.

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Unread 11-20-2011, 02:00 PM   #54
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I love my one line solutions.
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Unread 11-20-2011, 03:46 PM   #55
copleydad
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I love my one line solutions.
Yeah, for sure. You're close enough for those beers I owe you!

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Unread 11-30-2011, 08:11 AM   #56
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So, just an update. She is running great!!!

Just filled up and now getting 15+ mpg instead of the 10 or 11 before. Should be even better when I get to change the damaged manifold gasket and put on the new Borla headers and cat back system.
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