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Unread 11-16-2011, 09:56 AM   #31
oldtime_ironman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copleydad View Post
Replaced my regular copper top Champions gapped at .035 with regular copper top Champions gapped at .025, and she looked at me and screamed "HELL NO!". She didn't like that at all. Ran so much rougher, both at idle and with the throttle opened up.

I'm at a loss here. The upside is I know every screw, bolt, nut, vacuum line and wire associated with the carb and ignition. If only one was marked "fix me".
OK, so what happens if you go in the other direction? Try and open the gaps back up to 045.
Its not uncommon to have flakey ignition due to insufficient gap - a wider gap gives more area for the spark and gas to mix and go boom.
.

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Unread 11-16-2011, 10:14 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtime_ironman

OK, so what happens if you go in the other direction? Try and open the gaps back up to 045.
Its not uncommon to have flakey ignition due to insufficient gap - a wider gap gives more area for the spark and gas to mix and go boom.
.
Was wondering about that. I got a set of Autolite plugs once speced for the Jeep and they were set at .045.

Seeing how I can change the plugs black out drunk with my eyes closed at this point, may as well give it a shot.

Let you know in a bit
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Unread 11-16-2011, 10:50 AM   #33
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That's a no go. She doesnt hate it as much as the narrow gap, but stumbles under idle worse and under throttle.

With the regular plugs, she runs great out on the road. It's just when it's idling that it totally sucks.

Not ready to grab a rifle and climb a water tower yet, but getting close.

Why does that number one plug make me bleed EVERY time?
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Unread 11-16-2011, 11:17 AM   #34
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Reg plugs back in. Only thing left is wires and points.

Gonna go grab a new wire set first. Have 2 year old Bosch on there now, warranty at autozone for life, so what the heck. Give it a shot.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 11:24 AM   #35
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Wait, it only happens at idle? That is a big clue to me. It says that its more likely a fuel prob and not anything electrical. Because if it was electric, then its far more likely to happen under load, or *all* the time. I would say, find an MC2100 guru, there's a bunch of them around here.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 12:58 PM   #36
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89YJSAHARA258 seems to know a lot about the MC2100, and he was a great help with helping walk me through the carb adjustments and timing setup. It seems like it is almost starving for air, or fuel, most noticeably at idle. But, with all I've done to this thing, I can honestly rule out carb and timing issues, and ignition component problems. For now anyways.........

Just put on the new wires, no change. Someone at the parts place made the suggestion the cat may be starting to clog, putting back pressure on the engine. One thing we noticed after I swapped the wires, the "stumble" gets more pronounced as the engine gets warmer. It "chokes" a bit at around 1500 rpm, and is not noticeable at most rpms above that, like if you're on the highway.

Any thoughts on the catalytic converter theory? If YOU guys think it is something that's possible, I would be tempted to cut out the cat and put in a straight pipe just to see (before dropping any more dead presidents on guesses).
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Unread 11-16-2011, 01:01 PM   #37
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Ok at idle only mmmmm could it be the float adjustment is not correct? Now be careful in doing this look down the carb after a full warm up see if you see a drip coming from somewhere. Oh a good spot type light is great for checking this. If it does drip or if the top of the butterfly is wet then you are get close to where the problem is.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 02:46 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by copleydad View Post
Just put on the new wires, no change. Someone at the parts place made the suggestion the cat may be starting to clog, putting back pressure on the engine. One thing we noticed after I swapped the wires, the "stumble" gets more pronounced as the engine gets warmer. It "chokes" a bit at around 1500 rpm, and is not noticeable at most rpms above that, like if you're on the highway.

Any thoughts on the catalytic converter theory? If YOU guys think it is something that's possible, I would be tempted to cut out the cat and put in a straight pipe just to see (before dropping any more dead presidents on guesses).
I *highly* doubt its the cat, at least I would be real surprised if it was. Reason why is again, it would happen at all speeds and temps, getting worse at higher speeds because it has to flow more volume of exhaust at higher RPM's.

You can test the theory pretty cheap, all you need is a couple feet of 2-1/4 exhaust pipe, and put it in place of the cat. Heck even a chunk of fence post would work (ask me how I know...) that way you don't have to spend on a cat.

This is one of those which slowly boggles my mind because you've done everything including the usual suspects... its happened before. This is the part where I dig in my heels and say "We're *going* to figure this out and get it!"

.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 02:51 PM   #39
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BTW does yours have an EGR valve? If so, I would be much more inclined to suspect that.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 03:56 PM   #40
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Ironman, thanks for the confidence.

EGR valve? First thing that was replaced when I bought her. The housing was snapped, rusted or just tweaked, so it got a new one. Soon after putting in on, I disconnected the vac line and plugged it up because it was running crappy and never looked back.

In fact, this was one of those things I checked days ago by hooking the vacuum back up, ang yep, she was running just as crappy as she did when I first put the EGR on.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 04:36 PM   #41
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Ironman, thanks for the confidence.

EGR valve? First thing that was replaced when I bought her. The housing was snapped, rusted or just tweaked, so it got a new one. Soon after putting in on, I disconnected the vac line and plugged it up because it was running crappy and never looked back.

In fact, this was one of those things I checked days ago by hooking the vacuum back up, ang yep, she was running just as crappy as she did when I first put the EGR on.
Maybe I should go back and re-read the thread... I have a weird theory but it just might work. Mainly what about your vacuum? How many inches is it, when you're idling and its acting up? Because I'm wondering if the vacuum isn't enough, it would let the EGR open a bit when it shouldn't be.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 05:10 PM   #42
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Max vacuum I could get was 22.5"

And,yes, it does fluctuate at idle. Don't remember how much though.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 05:51 PM   #43
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Just for fun try richening the mixture (loosening the idle screws) and rev the motor between each 1/4 turn adjustment. Try each idle screw independently and then move them together. I am curious if despite the fact the carb was rebuilt the idle tubes might be clogged; either one or both. Just a thought... but if the idle smooths out a bit then it might be worth opening her up.

Also, when you say there is a stutter at 1500 rpm how far is your foot to the floor? Is it less or more pronounced at WOT compared to normal "lazy" acceleration?

Spencer
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Unread 11-16-2011, 06:08 PM   #44
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how about an intake or exhaust manifold gasket leak. my idle was all over the place until I fixed a gasket leak.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 06:21 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89yjsahara258 View Post
Just for fun try richening the mixture (loosening the idle screws) and rev the motor between each 1/4 turn adjustment. Try each idle screw independently and then move them together. I am curious if despite the fact the carb was rebuilt the idle tubes might be clogged; either one or both. Just a thought... but if the idle smooths out a bit then it might be worth opening her up.

Also, when you say there is a stutter at 1500 rpm how far is your foot to the floor? Is it less or more pronounced at WOT compared to normal "lazy" acceleration?

Spencer
Hey Spencer. I was wondering about that also, the carb being clogged. As far as the 1500 rpm stutter, I was guessing it while under the hood this afternoon. It is a mild stutter, but there none the less.

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how about an intake or exhaust manifold gasket leak. my idle was all over the place until I fixed a gasket leak.
I hope not, winter's coming . I don't have time to do these this year.

Have a new exhaust, front pipe back, planned for the spring, but really don't want to get involved with the manifold.

How do I check for a leak?
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