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Unread 01-28-2013, 08:27 PM   #76
wayno32m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHfireYJ View Post
Just so you know...I'm assuming you have a body lift, so if you do and use the PM bracket, your steering shaft will be maxed out...

It will still work, LOUIE4 is running his this way.. I had an old steering shaft and used it to extend the outer shaft by 3".

Just an FYI...
Good to know, Thanks

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Unread 01-29-2013, 09:43 AM   #77
DLWRUBI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayno32m View Post
I`m just asking but earlier in this thread someone said a flat pit man would interfere/hit the frame, it would definatley clear up any binding with the Tie rod though ?
Wonder where they had trouble at with the flat arm hitting the frame? If the arm is long enough I can see it maybe hitting the track bar mount, but that can be cut out.

I have the Gen right twisted arm I'm going to be putting on soon and it's pretty much flat with a twist in it so I guess I'll find out.
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Unread 01-29-2013, 09:48 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by DLWRUBI View Post
Wonder where they had trouble at with the flat arm hitting the frame? If the arm is long enough I can see it maybe hitting the track bar mount, but that can be cut out.

I have the Gen right twisted arm I'm going to be putting on soon and it's pretty much flat with a twist in it so I guess I'll find out.
I think what you two are refering to is Louie4 jeep. he has a teraflex passenger knuckle which has a high steer setup on it if you was going to go with a flat arm his drag link would have hit his frame on full flex of the pass. side. which can be cured by notching the frame with some tubing. I think that is the comment you are refering to.
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2" BL, 4" stretch all on saggy waggy springs.
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Unread 01-29-2013, 09:57 AM   #79
DLWRUBI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyj View Post
I think what you two are refering to is Louie4 jeep. he has a teraflex passenger knuckle which has a high steer setup on it if you was going to go with a flat arm his drag link would have hit his frame on full flex of the pass. side. which can be cured by notching the frame with some tubing. I think that is the comment you are refering to.
That makes since, thanks for clearing that up. I'll probably have to notch my frame as well being that I have a D60 going in.
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Unread 01-29-2013, 08:02 PM   #80
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHfireYJ View Post
Just so you know...I'm assuming you have a body lift, so if you do and use the PM bracket, your steering shaft will be maxed out...

It will still work, LOUIE4 is running his this way.. I had an old steering shaft and used it to extend the outer shaft by 3".

Just an FYI...
Quote:
Originally Posted by wayno32m View Post
Good to know, Thanks
I am definitely planning to snag a steering shaft out of a Cherokee and hack it up if I will work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DLWRUBI View Post
Wonder where they had trouble at with the flat arm hitting the frame? If the arm is long enough I can see it maybe hitting the track bar mount, but that can be cut out.

I have the Gen right twisted arm I'm going to be putting on soon and it's pretty much flat with a twist in it so I guess I'll find out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyj View Post
I think what you two are refering to is Louie4 jeep. he has a teraflex passenger knuckle which has a high steer setup on it if you was going to go with a flat arm his drag link would have hit his frame on full flex of the pass. side. which can be cured by notching the frame with some tubing. I think that is the comment you are refering to.
Yeah I flipped the drag link under the upper arm but I still get interference when I am on the trail and hit a large rock with some speed. My plan thus far is to relocate my front extended bumpstops like NHfireYJ did and notch the frame once I find a suitable piece of pipe.

Funny you mention the Genright twisted pitman arm. My good buddy got the Teraflex knuckle and a Ruffstuff HD steering kit with heim joints. He also got the twisted arm so I am curious to see how that works. Oh and he got the PM bracket as well for clearance.
(his build thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...l#post14876204)

As far as the pitman arm goes, I also thought about getting a waggy one. Parts Mike sells one with a blank on the drag link end so you can have some adjustment. I thought about an Astrovan arm as well but they are 7" and if I use that I think it will hit the bottom of my radiator...maybe.
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Unread 01-31-2013, 04:00 PM   #81
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First real test ride since the frame swap... Have a few boulders in the neighborhood... Here is the clearence. No issues!!
steering-1-.jpg   steering-2-.jpg   testdrive-2-.jpg  
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Unread 03-13-2013, 03:43 PM   #82
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Louie,

just PM'd you about the billet pitman, but do you have pics of the TJ pitman installed.

Thanks
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Unread 03-13-2013, 08:24 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHfireYJ View Post
Louie,

just PM'd you about the billet pitman, but do you have pics of the TJ pitman installed.

Thanks
I just noticed this and I believe I do.





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Unread 03-14-2013, 09:29 AM   #84
NHfireYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
I just noticed this and I believe I do.





Thanks. Looks like the TJ arm is 1/2 the drop of the stock YJ arm... YES?
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Unread 03-14-2013, 09:39 AM   #85
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Yes. It does have less drop than the stock YJ arm but I can't remember how much less. 1/2" sounds right though. I would like to find a flatter and slightly longer arm but I have yet to find one.
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Unread 03-14-2013, 09:42 AM   #86
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Yeah, I think I'll have issues with the stretch. For now I'll take that billet one...PM me the shipping cost and I'll paypal you. Thanks
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Unread 01-10-2014, 08:12 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comeoutswingin View Post
...It's also shackle reversal so i think its a little further forward from that also...My bracket bolts on to the existing bracket and moves the box 2.25" foward and also rotates it down....bracket does require cutting of the front crossmember and replacing it with 2x3 tubing...you will also need to add a bracket for your radiator/grill core support...
[from post #30 at this thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyj View Post
Welcome to the club lol
the steering will be fine as long as you don't do what I did and do a over the knuckle tie rod flip. I created a thread about my problem, but a simple remedy is to get a parts mike steering relocation bracket which moves your steering box forward one inch alleviating any binding issues $100. But since you're like me "budget minded" I used a ford ranger truck pitman arm junk yard price $10 it reduces your turning radius a bit ( its shorter) but not much at all...
The Parts Mike bracket looks like it will solve an issue, but I am concerned with some of the issues brought up in this thread. Nothing against the part but I probably won't buy that part but modify the frame instead because it won't really cost me any money

I just purchased a "spare" frame for my 91 project so I can get work without having to disassemble the project out in the snow. I am ready to start cutting, grinding, wire brushing, and welding to my wishes. My plan is
  • front shackle reversal, stretching forward a little in the process
  • 1" spring plate stretch (if I can't get 1-1/2" to 2" when I do shackle reversal)
  • SOA front and rear (keeping the 4.10-ratio D30 with 4.10 Ford 8.8 rear)
  • possible 'frenching' of spring mount to slightly reduce the SOA height as long as I can maintain OEM caster and match it in the rear
  • tie rod end flip to get that a little higher

I haven't decided or figured out if I want to go WJ knuckle/crossover steering or how I am going to handle that portion yet.

I don't have "Part-number Dependency Syndrome" and I have a extra steering shafts around to deal with that like NHFire did and have no problem cutting the front frame up.

BUT before I do it (I will likely be starting tomorrow) I would appreciate a little more input from those who have already trodden this path. This thread and some others referenced have been immensely helpful but I figure that I (and others following) might gain more insight or have a lightbulb or two go on if I asked here and resurrected this.

Thank you to the numerous previous posters and the OP for all this great information here!

(BTW- related to my frame work but on the rear. Probably should start a new thread... I am wondering if anyone has done anything "brilliant" moving the forward/fixed rear spring mount back a little? I have a set of XJ springs and I don't have enough experience on Jeeps to draw a conclusion of whether or not I want to do the XJ springs or move the spring mounts. I have steel 14-gallon tank; in measuring diff to tank it looks like I can handle almost 4 inches. The plastic 20-gallon tank I have seems to be the same front to rear measurement. The XJ springs reportedly make a 6" move rearward. Depending on response here on this slightly off-topic Q I may post a new thread later...)
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Unread 01-10-2014, 10:53 AM   #88
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If you are going SOA then you wont be able to do a tie-rod flip. You really should do a crossover setup anyways.
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Unread 01-10-2014, 10:59 AM   #89
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If you are going SOA then you wont be able to do a tie-rod flip. You really should do a crossover setup anyways.
X2 for SOA, your tie rod will hit your leaf springs. crossover is probably your best bet. Thanks for bumping my thread with a post and keeping the topic alive.
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2" BL, 4" stretch all on saggy waggy springs.
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Unread 01-10-2014, 12:56 PM   #90
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OK. I prefer the crossover but I was hoping to not have to do that until later, but leaving the tie rod hanging down there vulnerable sounded like a bad idea. A dropped pitman arm seems like a pretty bad idea, too. And after considering welding the OEM knuckle (which I have learned is cast, not forged) or making my own high-steer bolt-on, I pretty much have decided that a new knuckle or a WJ jy part is the only way to go. It didn't click that the temporary "compromise" of a tie rod flip was going to hit the springs. Which makes perfect sense now that I am thinking about it.
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